SteveJ

I would be surprised if either one, especially the STE, claimed factory calibration. I'm happy getting consistent readings from the STE. So, are you going to take the EMPI to a calibration lab?

Did you do before & after measurements, Cliff? I'd be curious about how far out of adjustment yours got to be.

I'll let people like Alan & Carl speak up about why the fuel pump wiring is present without a fuel pump. What are the colors on the connector by the radio?

I should add that you might consider adding an inertia switch to the circuit for safety. You can find them on ebay.

In two wiring diagrams I looked at (the one in the 1971 supplement PDF and the 1972 BE section), the wire to the fuel pump is a green wire. It should go to a 20 A inline fuse. The upstream side of the fuse comes off of the ignition switch when it is in the ON position. I don't know why you don't think you have access to the PDFs I am looking at. They are available at XenonS30 (link below).

I don't recall spraying the starting fluid around the rear carburetor. I did the spraying around the front carb before Philip did the valve adjustment. I'll take some contact cleaner to the timing light, too.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll try that on Wednesday.

Also, didn't we leave the timing on my car at about 32 degrees? I am going to order the proper hoses to go from the bowls to the nozzles. It's easier to diagnose problems when the proper parts are in place first.

Philip, aka Blue, came by the house to visit today since he's in town on business. We worked on setting the needles and balancing the SUs on the 260Z and found that the valves were in BAD need of adjustment. When compression in some cylinders increase by over 50%, the valves are in BAD need of adjustment. Philip spend a lot of time playing "Ask for the tool Steve doesn't have." Fortunately, I was able to dig up everything but the remote starter. Then again, I wasn't crazy about my remote starter when I used it in the past. The 260Z is running a lot better now, thanks to Philip. He is a credit to the Z car community. EDIT: I forgot to add early on we took the Z out to warm it up and get lunch. I couldn't pass up the chance to take him over to the Dawsonville City Hall & Georgia Racing Hall of Fame (same building).

Ernest, you might want to contact the Upstate Z Club to see if anybody there might be interested in the left-overs. Also, let me know what you have. I haven't been up to Greenwood in a few years.

Hmm, I was browsing the pictures associated with the Rising Sons article, and I noticed one of the comments made on May 6, 2014, was from a Bryan P. from Virginia, followed by one from a Carl B. from Clearwater, FL. Perhaps Bryan already knew about this article. In the links, I found this series of articles where they drove a Jensen Interceptor and 280Z on a road trip. http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2012/04/29/Phoenix-to-Flagstaff Some others (mostly reader rides type articles) http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/11/The-first-car-I-dreamed-of-having-was-A-Datsun-240Z-20140711103708 http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2006/07/12/1973-Datsun-240Z-Race-Car http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2013/11/20/Japan-FTW http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/11/Wasn39t-meant-to-be20140711103102 (tear jerker) http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/06/20/Loss-leads-to-love20140620115611 http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/02/15/Unintended-Forever-Car20140215010649 http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/18/Yes-Dear20140718074918 (nice chuckle)

14 AWG is quite adequate. A 10 foot run of 14 AWG to the headlights would have a voltage drop of about 0.25VDC. Going up to 10 AWG gives you a drop of 0.100VDC.

Unless you are using 10 AWG wire, use a 10 A fuse.

While some of the advice you get here may be accurate, I would consult a lawyer in your own country. You are leaving out many details that would influence true legal advice.

Interesting thought. You would have to intercept the R & RY wires coming out of the fusebox at the connector and send them to the 85 pin. Connect the 86 pins to the high/low beam switch. Then you could connect the R & RY wires downstream to fuses and to the battery. Have the 87 pins on the relays hooked to the RB & RW wires that were removed from the high/low beam switch and ground the 30 pins.

I prefer to bring the new positive lead into the 87 pin. If you bring it into the 30 pin, then the 87a pin is hot when the headlights are off, giving you a chance to short circuit and blow the headlight fuse. Otherwise, the second drawing is correct. I hope the picture below helps some more.

My wife will probably drive up in her own car. She is picky about having AC.

If they have track day at AMP next year, I'll be better prepared. I have a telephoto lens to help get the shots on track.

It's all the same circuit. Download the manual supplement from XenonS30. Inspect the side markers and front markers. Sometimes corrosion can build up and short the lights. Inspect the connector between the combo switch and the dash h arness for evidence of overheating. Inspect your fuse box. Between poor contact between the fuse clip & fuse and the extra current from corrosion in the marker lights, the fuse box has been known to melt down. Having eliminated all of that, the contacts in the switch could be coated with too much carbon, preventing the circuit from closing.

How about the side markers and dash lights? Are they coming on?

While this circuit is specifically for a 72, it should work for your car: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars As you can see from the diagram in the link, there is no interface between the brake lights and the emergency brake, just as Jim said. On the other hand, the emergency brake handle does have a contact for the brake warning light in the instrument cluster.

Stock 240Z - No. Nismo Voltage Stabilizer on ebay - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

Minion divers.

I have seen an alternator pass at a parts store, yet I pushed my friend to replace it anyway. Sure enough, his charging problems disappeared. I agree with the good Captain. Inspecting the links is a good idea.

This has been covered many times. Do you have a stock ignition, or does your car have a ZX distributor? 1. Get a can of dusting air. 2. Drive the car until it stalls. 3. Hold the can upside down and spray the coil. The liquid will cool the coil quickly. 4. See if the car starts immediately. 5. If not, do the same to the ECU. 6. If not the ECU, do the same to the TIU or ignition module (whichever your car has). If that doesn't help with the diagnosis, let us know. There are some other diagnostics you can do.