SteveJ

I don't think so.

I only saw Ron's car once a few years back, so my memory is fuzzy. Did he do a tribute to the #46 or the #3?

I hope it wasn't Ron Carter's old car.

Come on, Bruce. Register.

Noise and air flow are somewhat proportional on squirrel cage fans. Plus there is the wear and tear of 40 years of use on the stock fans. Those both could contribute to the difference in airflow. Frankly with driving a car without AC in Georgia or Texas, the more airflow you can get, the better off you are. I think some conversions on the 240Z have mentioned current flow, though I don't recall seeing any quantitative measurements.

Let me guess. You were searching for videos on how to use your new lathe, right?

Registration costs vary by what you want to sign up for. If you want to do any of the organized events, you need to register.

I got my hotel reservation and paid for my registration today.

That link doesn't bring up the 240Z offerings for me. Along with the Shox home page, I got a pop-up saying "Illegal to access page." However, I was able to find the Tokico shocks for a 240Z.

Chevette springs - Cut to the desired length. They are much firmer than 40 year old springs, too. I ordered a couple of pairs of front springs, and I have been very happy with the results.

That car is the subject of at least one if not more threads on here.

Actually I didn't have any problems when I did that to a seat rail. I did submerge the entire ashtray, though. I have some containers in the garage dedicated to dunking.

Gasoline is the cheapest and best (especially if it is ethanol free) fuel you can run in your Z.

Also, you can ask to join the Delta Z Club on Facebook.

Well this got me motivated. I have my ash tray soaking in Evapo-Rust as I type. There are some holes in it from rusting through. I'll probably try to solder them up. I'll post before & after pictures.

You would need to increase the gauge of the wiring throughout the circuit so you could increase the amperage of the fuses to prevent blowing the fuses on the inrush current. You would need better heat rejection, and you would probably burn out the filaments in the bulbs a lot faster. Auxiliary lights are a much better idea.

Fix it right.

Cliff, come out my way and bring your new toy. I'll help you figure out how to use it.

Dang, there went some more money.

And as I said before, without voltage on the green/white wire, you will not have lights. So what you need to do is figure out where the circuit has been interrupted. Look in the engine bay and under the dash. You will see non-factory relays. Extra wires around the headlights are a clue. At this point, I will assume the worst and say that someone hacked up the wiring harness. That is based on you saying that you experience intermittent functionality and that you have seen splices in the circuit. Until you confirm continutity between the green/white wire at the headlight switch and the end point in the body harness, you have not proven the splices do not relate to your problem. The headlights and taillights DO NOT share a circuit that is germane to this problem. The running lights on the front and rear DO share a circuit on the POSITIVE side, that being the green/white wire. It branches off in the dash harness. The front and rear running light circuits DO NOT share a ground. That is why there are two places marked "Earth Point" in the drawing I referred you to. At this point, I suggest you join the Z Club of Texas or the Cowtown Z Club and find out who is good with wiring. It is difficult to diagnose a hacked up harness online if the owner does not have good knowledge of electrical systems.

You aren't measuring power unless you are using a wattmeter. I asked you to measure voltage. If you don't have voltage on the body harness side of the connector, you won't have lights. That hints at dirty connections in your wiring if it is stock. Did someone convert the headlight circuits to use relays? Are there any signs of splices or other "modifications" in the wiring harness? You assume wrong. Look at the wiring diagram breakouts in the FSM. Also please answer the other questions I asked. They are intended to get pertinent information to solve your problem.

Look at page BE-14. Are the rear side markers lit? Remove the back panel. Are there signs of splices? Use a voltmeter and check for voltage to ground on the green/white wire.

Please clarify what circuit is not working. The following circuits go to the rear of the car: 1. Brake lights 2. Parking lights (aka running lights) 3. Turn signals 4. Reverse lights Also, if you download a copy of the FSM, in the BE section, you will find breakouts of each circuit. That will help with troubleshooting.

Depending upon the year, it could also be fusible links. Until the OP gives the proper information, it's just all speculation.

What year Z?