SteveJ

More than just that, I would recommend a thermostat control. Using switched power is not that important for the thermostat circuit. I would run a circuit with the thermostat to operate the coil of the relay. Then at least a 10 gauge wire for the power to the fan. All circuits appropriately fused.

So do you have a mechanical fuel pump? You should unless you have a later head that doesn't have the port. Are you running SUs? If so, you don't need the electric fuel pump. You could bypass it. That's my plan for my 73. Why are you doing a Maxifuse conversion? You only have the one fusible link by the starter.

Post the year of your car in your post. The wiring will vary depending upon the year of your car.

As a matter of fact, that's what I used as my reference.

Just in case someone reads this thread, I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I decided to try adjustable flasher relays. I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

From the FSM

bLue

RY - Headlight (Left) RL - Inspection Lamp GL - Front running lights (missing from plug) R - Headlight (Right)

I hope that we can maybe flush out enough of the crap to let you drive it if we can drop the tank.

Dang, you should have tried on my car in Memphis. I have the 240Z foam in my seats. It does cause some head bumping, and I'm a couple of inches shorter than you.

The same fuse as for your other instruments. It's the middle fuse on the left.

Here's the contrarian position. I had a fuel gauge that stopped registering. I got under the car and found the connections at the tank were loose. I got them tight against the sender, and I have a functioning gauge. I can test it with a meter and ensure there's a good connection, and I probably have a good fuel meter if it comes down to that.

The weekend after that is over at Jai's place near Chatsworth. I'm betting on the electrical connection. A multimeter is your bestest friend. If you're in town over Labor Day, you could bring the car over on Monday, and we can put it on the lift.

Joe, Drive down to Tim McGovern's house this Saturday. I'm already going to look at his car and maybe Pat Carr's car. We might as well make it a full day.

Even more reason for me to think that Philip is on the right track. When you start, stop, turn or change elevation, you stir up the tank.

When measuring the voltage on the ground side of the injectors, you will see 12 VDC with the key in the START or ON position until the ECU gives the command to fire. At that point, the ECU is grounded, and the circuit goes from the injector, through the dropping resistor and on to ground. When I measured voltage on a 280ZX one time, the voltage would drop to about 10VDC when the injectors were firing. If you want to "test fire" your injectors, I would ground the circuit downstream of the dropping resistors.

WIth the way it was running most of the time, I'm suspecting that it's picking up debris from the tank when it's crapping out. The next planned visit is the 29th. I guess we'll be focusing on the tank again.

My LEDs blink fast. I have some adjustable flashers on order. I'll report the results.

I have some you can modify.

Exact fit for the 1157 sockets in the Z: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K833BS2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 It turned and locked just like the stock socket.

Philip, I guess I can't rule that out, either. That would explain the rapid loss in pressure the first time the car died in my testing. That could also explain the problems Jai had today. I could drain the tank again. I also did put a small fuel filter in before the fuel pump. I didn't put the car up on ramps, so I didn't inspect the fuel filter yesterday. I'm trying to be methodical and focus on addressing and eliminating each issue I find. I am beginning to think some of the issues confound one another. It's also a challenge to make sure I have everything to test loaded up in the car to take over to Jai's place. I also have to admit that I'm hoping the problems found have easy solutions since Jai does not have the funds to purchase a lot of parts.

I have some in my garage. I can add that to the list for the next trip.

I ordered a 5K pot earlier today based on other threads. I'll bring a vacuum gauge, too. I'm hoping the remaining problems are electrical in nature and not clogged injectors. Of course, I didn't see much in the way of vacuum lines on the intake. I'll have to do some studying in the FSM.