SteveJ

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

Have you tested or tried to rebuild the horns?

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

Go down to the "Push Rod Considerations" section of this link: https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

Either he's making it harder than it should be, or this is not a conversion for the faint of heart.

Here's someone adapting the iBooster to a Z32.

If the clevis pin lines up with the pedal, you're good to go. If you're truly curious about this conversion, look on ebay for Honda electric brake boosters. You won't have to worry about the angle on the MC reservoir.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

The other connections are just as listed in the drawing. The other 19 pins in the big connector are left blank. Connector kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267047224965?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOooPV5nflCm9OG4z_qtvTPN_DJ6ObmXrBJVU3X80I3uMTYxV2QYHG0Y

To share a YT video, there should be buttons underneath it, one of those being share. Click on the Share button, click on the Copy button, and paste the link in a post here. If it's an embedded video, right click on it, and choose Copy video URL I'm not sure what is causing the confusion with the wiring. It seems straightforward to me. I said to take the power for Pin 1 from the alternator so if your Z has an ammeter, it doesn't indicate a drain when the booster is boosting. The black/white wire should be the one that goes to the ballast resistor (pre 78). Am I missing something?

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side. For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

So test. Make it where you can access the yellow/blue wire. Put the key in ON. Verify the floor temp light is on. Ground the yellow/blue wire. Verify the fuel light comes on. See if the floor temp light turns off.

Correlation does not imply causation. What you leave out, though, is how you adapted the harness to go from the Yazaki round terminal plug to the individual wires. What did you do with the yellow/blue wire?

I appreciate the clarification. The articles I read did not provide that information.

The main challenge in the DOHC is that Nissan opted NOT to develop a transmission mount to deal with rotating the angle of the engine. Stock, it is rotated 12 degrees to the right. With the DOHC, it is rotated 12 degrees to the left. I guess if you're willing to plunk down $25K for the kit, you won't mind spending a few thousand more (I'm thinking around $10K or more unless you do fabrication) for the fuel injection and transmission mount. Hagerty MediaNissan DOHC Conversion Kit Can Make Your Classic Z Faster...The new Nissan DOHC conversion kit lets enthusiasts add dual overhead cams to several classics, like the 240Z.

I used BSPT fittings on the N33 balance tube I have in my 260Z when I was doing the fuel injection conversion.

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

Reading the factory service manuals.

I don't know if this is accurate, but for the L20, this site says the distributor orientation is different than what I would expect. https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/firing-order-datsun-l-series.html

Actually the lug on the alternator isn't switched. The black/white wire on the voltage regulator is switched, though I would not use that to power a light as it is also connected to the ignition coil. It would be smarter to use power from the black white to energize a relay (with a fuse between the voltage regulator and the relay) and use a wire from the alternator to power the lights.

Make it easy on yourself. Attach a ring lug to your wire and attach it to the alternator. Be sure to use an inline fuse to protect your wiring.

Phoenix I think it will be in September...not like I have to work that week... :)