SteveJ

Yes, it can be checked, but there is a risk of shorting out the fusible link if the owner does not insulate the end of the alternator wire properly. I try to lay out the tests to minimize the chance of introducing another problem.

Well, the diode seems to check out. Test for voltage at the white/black wire with the key in ON when you get the alternator put back in.

Of course, there is one other possibility. I could have designed the test wrong. I dug out a diode that should be the same spec as the ones used in the plug and tested myself. I found my instructions were lacking. You should re-test with the meter in diode testing mode. You can leave the key in OFF, too. If you test from the ballast resistor to the white/black wire, you should get a result similar to this: With the leads swapped, you should see this: If you do the voltage test, you should see a little less than battery voltage as the diode causes a slight voltage drop.

The 200 ohm setting is the correct one. The reading for the first test should have been close to zero. The reading you got was >200. That means either you didn't have good contact on the testing points, the diode is bad, or something else is wrong with the wiring. The way to confirm is to put the alternator back in, connect the battery, put the key in ON, and check for voltage to ground on the white/black wire. If you don't have voltage under those conditions, the alternator won't charge when running.

Okay, I'm going to assume the battery is disconnected. Put the key in ON. Put your meter on resistance. If there is more than one setting, put it on the lowest setting. Put the positive lead on the black/white wire at the ballast resistor. Put the negative lead on the white/black wire at the T connector. (Yes, you'll probably need some help. Record the reading and report back. Swap the leads and remeasure. Record the reading and report back.

Contact Oliver at Zspecialties to see if he has any. https://zspecialties.com/ I suggest calling him at the number at that website. Over at zcar.com, his user name is zmanofwashington.

Put the key in ON without the car running. Check for voltage to ground on the lower pin of the T connector on the back of the alternator (white/black wire). It should be about battery voltage. If you don't have voltage on that terminal, the alternator won't supply power.

Give me a call

Here's another site I've used before: https://www.nissanparts.cc/search?search_str=39628-E4100

There isn't a clickable link. NissanPartsDeal.com might be a better choice: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bolt-driveshaft~39628-e4100.html

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

Have you tested or tried to rebuild the horns?

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

Go down to the "Push Rod Considerations" section of this link: https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

Either he's making it harder than it should be, or this is not a conversion for the faint of heart.

Here's someone adapting the iBooster to a Z32.

If the clevis pin lines up with the pedal, you're good to go. If you're truly curious about this conversion, look on ebay for Honda electric brake boosters. You won't have to worry about the angle on the MC reservoir.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

The other connections are just as listed in the drawing. The other 19 pins in the big connector are left blank. Connector kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267047224965?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOooPV5nflCm9OG4z_qtvTPN_DJ6ObmXrBJVU3X80I3uMTYxV2QYHG0Y

To share a YT video, there should be buttons underneath it, one of those being share. Click on the Share button, click on the Copy button, and paste the link in a post here. If it's an embedded video, right click on it, and choose Copy video URL I'm not sure what is causing the confusion with the wiring. It seems straightforward to me. I said to take the power for Pin 1 from the alternator so if your Z has an ammeter, it doesn't indicate a drain when the booster is boosting. The black/white wire should be the one that goes to the ballast resistor (pre 78). Am I missing something?

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side. For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

So test. Make it where you can access the yellow/blue wire. Put the key in ON. Verify the floor temp light is on. Ground the yellow/blue wire. Verify the fuel light comes on. See if the floor temp light turns off.

Correlation does not imply causation. What you leave out, though, is how you adapted the harness to go from the Yazaki round terminal plug to the individual wires. What did you do with the yellow/blue wire?