SteveJ

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side. For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

So test. Make it where you can access the yellow/blue wire. Put the key in ON. Verify the floor temp light is on. Ground the yellow/blue wire. Verify the fuel light comes on. See if the floor temp light turns off.

Correlation does not imply causation. What you leave out, though, is how you adapted the harness to go from the Yazaki round terminal plug to the individual wires. What did you do with the yellow/blue wire?

I appreciate the clarification. The articles I read did not provide that information.

The main challenge in the DOHC is that Nissan opted NOT to develop a transmission mount to deal with rotating the angle of the engine. Stock, it is rotated 12 degrees to the right. With the DOHC, it is rotated 12 degrees to the left. I guess if you're willing to plunk down $25K for the kit, you won't mind spending a few thousand more (I'm thinking around $10K or more unless you do fabrication) for the fuel injection and transmission mount. Hagerty MediaNissan DOHC Conversion Kit Can Make Your Classic Z Faster...The new Nissan DOHC conversion kit lets enthusiasts add dual overhead cams to several classics, like the 240Z.

I used BSPT fittings on the N33 balance tube I have in my 260Z when I was doing the fuel injection conversion.

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

Reading the factory service manuals.

I don't know if this is accurate, but for the L20, this site says the distributor orientation is different than what I would expect. https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/firing-order-datsun-l-series.html

Actually the lug on the alternator isn't switched. The black/white wire on the voltage regulator is switched, though I would not use that to power a light as it is also connected to the ignition coil. It would be smarter to use power from the black white to energize a relay (with a fuse between the voltage regulator and the relay) and use a wire from the alternator to power the lights.

Make it easy on yourself. Attach a ring lug to your wire and attach it to the alternator. Be sure to use an inline fuse to protect your wiring.

Phoenix I think it will be in September...not like I have to work that week... :)

You're welcome. Verified that it works. I advised someone else to purchase the relay from JBugs after I diagnosed the relay failed in his 77. He slapped in the new relay, and his car ran fine.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/071906059.html

I reckon that they saw the PA license plates and determined that if you were crazy enough to drive it down to Nashville, your car deserved to be seen with the rest of the cars.

Sorry, that is positive earth smoke. It won't work on our negative earth cars.

Update from the Good Captain: He called me from Bristol, VA. He's making good progress, and the car is holding together, though he is still concerned about the cooling capacity of his radiator. I told him to run the heat, too, but he declined. (Obscure reference: Watch Gumball Rally when the Camaro is running hot.) He expects to hit NashVegas this evening.

Here's another source for the braided hoses: https://jdm-car-parts.com/pages/search-results-page?q=braided%20hose%20240z Also https://zcardepot.com/products/radiator-hose-set-braided-cloth-style-240z-70-73

Texted you...does you phone do texts? 🤣

I was finishing up a week away from work in one of the best ways I could: attending yet another car meet. I was expecting to be about the only one with a Z there today since ZCON is starting up just a few hours away. Boy was I surprised. Several friends showed up in their Zs, too. One new friend showed up a little late, too, with his 280Z.

LEDs aren't very voltage sensitive. I'm trying to figure out the voltage drop, though. Maybe I can get out to the garage tomorrow and take some meter readings for you to try to replicate. I'm wondering if the hazard switch may be corroded/crudded up enough that it's a choke point under load.

I'm enjoying some cooler than normal temps in September, so I washed the 260Z and took it to a car meet.