Richie G

Thanks so much Euro! Appreciate the guidance.

Reading this thread and it inspired me to work on my horns. I have a pair nicely plated that was going in the car when I noticed the older ones were a different style. Did a quick search but didn't really see anything leading to the difference. I'm hoping the plated ones are appropriate for the 6/71 and was wondering what the right color was for the inner front and back non plated sections. I'm assuming the plated pair is right since the frame has two holes for mounting. The PO used this straight metallic plate and single mount point.

I'm pretty sure it was but looking back at my records it was actually purchased late 21 not this year but I just got around to replacing it due to a back surgery. Maybe they have changed the mold or something to make them slightly different? This was the part number for outer https://www.thezstore.com/product/5487/rear-deck-outer-weatherstrip-one-piece-top-sides-70-78-240z-260z-280z-coupe and this was the inner https://www.thezstore.com/product/5735/reproduction-rear-deck-inner-weatherstrip-70-78-240z-260z-280z-coupe I bought this car in early 21 and the PO had fubar'd lots of stuff I'm just getting to. To be honest I didn't note the hatch being off line a tad before I replaced this so maybe he also had a precision and somehow shimmed the hinges to accommodate. When I replaced my seals I didn't take the hatch or hinges off since it was only me and my recent surgery wouldn't allow for that much weight.

I must have gotten lucky because I recently bought the inner and outer seal from Z store and they both fit perfectly with just the 3m adhesive. the outer seal was the single seal bulb that went all the way around rather than the separate top and two sides they offer like original. I have no issues closing hatch and it lines up almost perfect. It is a tad higher as you can see but no where near enough to not latch.

Any idea if they will ever make a series 2 with proper venting holes to match original look?

Richard that's awesome. For the license plate when I first showed it to my wife she jokes around and says most people will think it's farty not forty

Wanted to close this out with a final pic of the results. Taken in pretty much full sun so has a little reflection on it but I'm super happy with results. Even took the opportunity to get the right push rivets (realized after the initial install the PO had used interior ones) and I refreshed the metal clips on the bottom.

A quick check I'm able to browse to my profile and to other people's profiles from my Android phone don't have the opportunity to check it from a PC yet. I can also navigate to recent posts from my profile without the dreaded spinning wheel. Things are certainly improving thanks mike.

Same here. I also just noticed I can't go to anyone's profile not just mine. Same error as on my own page.

Just wanted to post some progress. Tested the method with the center section, love the results. Thanks again to all!

Do you plan on making the other version with valve stem under the slot? If I'm not mistaken under slot is the version 2 for late 70 and early 71.

OK so its not just me something is going on. Love the site so please don't take this request as a complaint. Hoping Mike can get to it once he has time.

I hate posting this here, total no no but I've been after site support and moderator support for like 3 months to fix this. Can't view my profile, get this nonsense Anyone get any luck in getting site issues fixed? I'm a paying member no less, a bit frustrating. [[Template core/front/profile/profile is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Cool! Curious what color did you use underneath just in case I get really ambitious 🙂 Those look great BTW.

Any suggestions on a replacement?

I've been working on a few things lately and recently pulled and repainted the tail light panel. Got the paint from California Datsun which supposedly is the closest to original but I'm wondering about the glossiness. The color seems right to me, but its awfully glossy. Was it this glossy when new? I could have done a better job honestly but many of the small ripples you may see didn't seem to show up until the gloss shined in the light. If this paint was matt or flat may not even notice them but with all this shine you can see even hairline imperfections. Debating if I pull it and try again once I get through more important things.

Thanks Steve, so switch meaning on the turn signal one that changes grounding from high to low right? I can't imagine why the combo switch would be an issue if its sending power to the lights overall. I actually think I have an old one of each laying around from a parts bin i can try swapping easily enough to eliminate.

Fiddling today before I put her away for a few weeks and noticed the high work but not the low beams on both sides. The stalk was in great shape when I last put it together about a year ago but maybe the low grounding in there has an issue? I really don't have time before my out of town trip to tinker, just curious if there's a list of things I should check when I get back? All other lights work great just the lows off for some reason. Could filaments in each bulb go at the same time for some reason?

OK thanks guys. So cooler air = better performance, just like cold water makes better coffee 😉 I was just curious that the manifold pipe being left wide open wasn't a "good thing", no issues just leaving it like that? We don't cap it or anything? And for looks if I do decide to place it on and off at times, is that dryer vent looking hose from Z Car really accurate? I can't imagine they used that way back when, looks so out of place with everything else. I was going to get this from Dorman to at least have it match some of the hoses aesthetically. Only $10 or so currently on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-96034-Preheater-Hose/dp/B000C5I7VC/ref=asc_df_B000C5I7VC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241973068692&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17963068419572466911&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032516&hvtargid=pla-570818045410&psc=1

My car doesn't have a hose for the wintertime connection from cleaner to manifold. I don't really need it in Sacramento, but do I want to put it on there anyway? I don't think I ever see one on most if not all of the cars that get a proper restoration on BAT, but it just feels weird to have that exhaust manifold going nowhere? A quick search here really didn't provide much other than a small thread from 05. If I do need it, is it really this from Z Car Depot as the original looking hose?

Could this green / black be the seat belt lights in the later consoles? Makes sense since it's located with the rear defrost switch wiring. That could mean these two are the power for the ac switch and the power for the door lights maybe?

Could have saved me $40 bucks if I had seen those. Surprisingly they didn't show in my ebay searches.

I have a 6/71 which should have the earlier harness with the longer pig tail fuse box connections. Seems the PO mixed and matched some stuff from a 72 or later and I think I have a late 71 / 72 dash harness and short pig tail fuse box. As I start on the dash area restoral couple of questions if you don't mind. First, are there any major differences with the harness I need to worry about or as long as the fuse box matches the harness I should be good? Everything seemed to be working off dash / console except the radio and rear defrost but I know why. The rear defrost had the inline fuse holder broken (needs replacing) and the radio was something he just threw in there. I have an original seek AM I'm going to try and get to work (supposedly it does) and it seems to match up with all the connectors. As I trace everything though it seems there are a few things unconnected if someone can identify these please What's this blue/red connector on the heater panel section? And this blue bullet connector maybe is power to the optional air conditioner? And this green / black connector coming off the rear defrost line? Maybe the optional door lights? Any help appreciated.

I'm lucky enough that it will close on its own. i can just drop it from mid height and it latches really well. It just isn't perfectly flush. I'm hoping it compresses will keep an eye on it. I was even luckier in that I didn't have to pull the hatch itself. My old hinge rubbers were intact and painted over but seemed still ok, plus it was only me and no way I was chancing it alone. Nothing in the roof that would indicate previous compromise so felt ok leaving them for now. I do have a replacement pair in case I ever need them. These were reasonable and very well made. With exchange rate tax ands shipping was like $112 US in case anyone needs a new pair. You'll have to keep your old compression plate and shims rubber only. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384879465523

Ah OK thought the PO had really gone nuts there for a moment lol. So brakes need the flare wrench for the various connections. Thanks as always