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Yarb

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Everything posted by Yarb

  1. My mistake called it “air bypass” instead of “aar”. Plugged it with brass fitting NPT I believe 1/4”.
  2. I’d post it up to the forum for advice. I’m in a warm climate and removed it from the system to clean up the intake. So your probably missing the steel water line that runs in front of the timing cover down to the lower radiator water inlet on the RH side of the engine as well. The FSM will help you identify the system components.
  3. Coolant line Runs over top of the intake to a plate under the air bypass valve. Loops back to the coolant system.
  4. @Racer X, What’s your take on the dielectric grease as far as application? I’ve heard just to use it on the boots and other synthetic/rubber areas but not the contacts themselves. Your thoughts? Thanks
  5. I realize it’s not the best solution for electrical connections but would suffice in this application on a reverse switch.
  6. Looks like it has to be fabricated. Thought someone would offer a sleeve to mate two male bullets.
  7. Swapping out the automatic to manual transmission. The reverse switch has two male bullets. The automatic wiring harness has the same male connections. Looking for a female to female sleeve to avoid cutting and replacing one side or the other. Looking for some insight here. Thanks... John
  8. Sent you a pm have not heard back thanks
  9. Well, Did much better in my opinion on the second go around. @EuroDat how you saved the brackets? Kudos to you!! Just opened up one other hole. Rookie mistake! But it looks like a Z Now!!
  10. Newbie!!🍺🍺🍺
  11. Got it thanks, I’ll give it another shot tomorrow when I’m back at the shop.
  12. Thanks for the help. So by my pics and @EuroDat pics. Looks like the center hole on the support brackets is Not a spot weld?
  13. @EuroDat, Did you use 2 different sized cutters? If so what size did you use?
  14. Thanks @Patcon, looking back at the pics. I believe there are just two spot welds on the bracket. In the first pic I drilled in the center of the bracket. Creating that large hole. I agree just try to cut through the bracket material only. So 3/8 is not too large for these welds?
  15. This is my first attempt removing a spot weld. After looking at my first attempt, I assume the goal is not to drill all the way through. Just enough to remove the weld correct? The bit I’m using is 3/8. Does that seem to large for theses spot welds?
  16. Jumping on this thread, Please forgive me. The first photo of the sight shield is what I’m attempting to remove. I bought a spot weld tool from ZCD. Drilled out the first spot weld and the bracket is still attached solid. Can anyone shed some light on this before I attempt the others? Here’s a pic of the first weld I removed.
  17. My 78 280 had a very light silicone based adhesive on the back of the booster when it was installed. I also was expecting a gasket.
  18. I see what you mean after looking closer. A little over kill. Looks like the bit im using is too large.
  19. Jumping on this thread, Please forgive me. The first photo of the sight shield is what I’m attempting to remove. I bought a spot weld cutter from ZCD. Drilled out the first spot weld and the bracket is still attached solid. Can anyone shed some light on this before I attempt the others? Here’s a pic of the first weld I removed and the next weld that I have not attempted. Appreciate the guidance. John
  20. 😂
  21. Harbor freight Daytona 3 ton $200 on sale is a great jack.
  22. Not sure how to answer this. Did you isolate the connections on the pump. Meaning it’s not a good idea IMO to just throw power to the circuit without isolating the component being tested.
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