HKSZ

A quick question, has anybody heard of Konami Gold shocks? or is it only Tokico that make the top gold series in shocks for rallying. Steve

Pull the plugs and a couple of squirts of WD40 into the bores will help get things moving again. When I start a rebuilt motor for the first time I pull the HT leed off the coil and turn it over a few times to build up oil pressure. Steve

Try something like www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au in your search engine, the cheapest I've found. -You only buy screen rubbers as one piece. Steve

Hi Cuong, it's perhaps the least of this guys worries now but did he ever give you the final prognosis on that motor? Steve

OK who got it

Thanks, The block #'s given are correct, they also match up with the rego sticker. Still a bit suspect ginding back the L xx but its not the first time. I had a L26 in a zed, really gutless so I pull the head off and found the pistons were the size of coke cans! It was a L20 and some body had stamped a mark on the 0 in L20 to make it L26 Steve

They're the same bar, 1 has 'bumperetts' fitted and # 2 has removed them ( mag the pic & see the holes) I've removed them on my cars as it only takes a love tap on the bumper to send them straight up into the bonnet Steve

ACT NSW guys could be a cheap bonnet? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433062980&category=36796 :cross-eye

build 10 / 1976 gsr30 015069 current motor 017555 original orange in colour with cream interior straight car but only good for parts now as the rust has taken a hold in the lower sills, quarters etc. Nissan must have stopped stamping motor #'s on build plates in 76 because my earlier 240's and 260's detailed them. Steve AKA Steve

Yes the round top carbs ended with the 240z in '73. I've also noticed that the build plate on the 260 only gives the chassis #, where as the 240 plate has stamped chassis and motor numbers. Steve

Just bought a 260 2+2 for a parts car. The motor has early SU's and runs really well but I can't identify whether its a L24 or L26 as the L xx before the serial number looks like it may have been grinded off It has a e88 head and on the LH side of the block is stamped P 30 3309. Did the P 30 blocks run both L24 & L26 ? Any tips on differences? cheers Steve

I know the car and owner and nearly had heart failure when I saw him selling it, much the same as the time he took me for a ride around Winton raceway. Its an awesome car Steve

I've owned a carbed turbo z, what you've got to realize is the set up is a suck through. ie a side draft weber or su carby sucks air and fuel into the turbo then pumps it into the inlet manifold, in my case a single carb manifold without the carb. Then turbo fever really sucks you in and you have to have more than one turbo and buy yourself a twin turbo 300 :love: :devious:

Gav I'm looking at that issue of Zoom now. It's aug/sep 1996! drunkenmaster I'm still trying to get my scanner to drive :stupid:

It's usually always a ripped rubber diff mount, leaking diff oil makes them go soft. I noticed on my race car someone has welded a rod to the front of the mount, between the inner & outer metal. Could be a solution Steve

I guess you're talking Falken GRBs I use these on my car 205/60/14, good sticky tyre and good price at $170 - 180 my ultimate choice would be bridgestone potenza's, but that could be pushing $240 :cross-eye

Optimax makes a big difference, I've always used it in my 300 and now they've banned avgas I use it in my L series race car. If your still building your head it would be a good time to change to bronze guides and hardened seats etc and just run ULP and Optimax when you want some extra kick. With the 98 oc in Opti your motor should run a little cooler and you will probably need a bit more advance. A word of warning though, put new fuel hoses on as it will soften old ones and replace the fuel filter. Optimax has a harsh cleaning solvent as its designed for modern FI systems, alot of guys have had trouble with it stripping the gunk out of the filter and passing it on to the carbies. Steve

Try without the filter Just another $2 part! Steve

Brian was this car running when you bought it? To check your coil turn the ignition to on, pull the HT lead from the coil out of the dizzy end and expose the metal connector, with insulated pliers hold it very near to the strut nut and watch to see it arc. Also check your points have a gap ( .45 mm). These too will arc when opened with the ig on Steve

The starter turns over but can the motor? I'd put it into neutral and turn the motor over with a socket wrench on the crank wheel nut. If it doesn't turn over then perhaps the bores are sticky, pull out all the plugs and spray WD 40 inside. Another thought, you didn't happen to fry your 'fuseable links' when changing or jumping the batteries?

You said you have braided lines so I don't know whether this will work but try vise gripping all four flexable lines to the brakes. This will definately give you a hard pedal, if not then your M/C is rooted! I bought an old race car that had been sitting around for years and the brakes were shot. First thing I did was replace both M/Cs on the pedal box and over next 12 mths in and out of brake shops, bought new pads, rotors,caliper kits balance bars etc and still had no confidance in the anchors, thats when a mate gave me this tip. thats when we found one of the M/C was faulty, ie the first bloody thing I replaced :stupid:

I think its called Harlequin and changes 7 times between bronze and violet because of refracting diamond particles in the paint. Probably explains why its so damn exspensive

Another option is to vent your battery & washer flaps, keeping a second painted up pair so you can change back in minutes.

I have one on the rear of my car, a one piece like the orange 240 and it also has a platform on the right hand side as if a badge should be mounted there, is this a 'BRE' spoiler?

Ten years ago a fluted bonnet was the hottest mod you could put on a zed everybody wanted one, but I think now enthusiasts go for a more sleeker original body. Bonnets are probably the worst panel on the car to restore. I had a rust free straight one and decided to strip it back to bare metal it took three times as much speed filing, priming, shadow coating as any other panel and it was perfect to begin with. steve