26th-Z

Steve, The tube comes plated cad and was apparently attached to the engine block when it was painted. Original OEM color is blue overspray.

This is interesting. Went out to the shop to look at mine. Here is what I have.

Then I looked up Kats' photos and pulled out the parts books. 21430-10600 is the part number in the North America parts book. It is also listed as such in the Fairlady parts book for the L20 and L24 application. However, 21430-E4200 and 21430-E4201 are listed for the S20 application. I also have this picture of the decals and it shows both a silver and cad finished cap. Now here is what I just noticed. The cap Clive shows has Japanese writing on it. The embossed emblems on the cap wings appear the same as all the pictures I have, but the Japanese writing is distinctive !?!! I have seen the Jap caps and the decals before. Never took notice of the differences. I can zoom in on the pictures from the car in Syracuse. It seems the embossed writing is the same as your cap, Dan.

Hmmm...This is interesting. I responded after looking at a couple of pictures from the 1970 low milage car at Syracuse. Do you remember that car? 18,000 original miles or something. That was one of the first "low milage" unrestored cars I had seen. The radiator cap appears silver, but it could be that the cad finish is light.

Wow! I wonder if I could get nine grand for all my stuff? That's about what my stuff looks like. 26th's body shell is done, though. But that would be foolish, eh? I couldn't capture any of the pictures!?!? Anybody help me? From the looks of it, by the time you spend $40,000 to get it all back together, it will be worth $40,000. Go Gators

Rhyming with Ed, but also be aware that the sound of Z is different in other parts of the world as well. Z can be pronounced as we would say "ts" like in cats. So ZED would be pronounced Tset.

Have fun at the Z debut!

That's a correct cap, but it looks like it has been painted. The correct finish is zink plate silver.

I have been pretty much out of the loop for the last year or two because of my financial meltdown however I'm willing to bet the plastic emblems are still available new at a reasonable price. That would be the least expensive way to go. The metal emblems can be restored and the pins can be repaired. There are plenty of chrome places around the country that do this type of work. Check out an issue of Old Cars Weekly www.oldcarsweekly.com and you will find ads for this industry. Expect to pay around $100 per emblem.

That's a custom decal / emblem that indicates the car is Japanese or that the PO had some sort of fondness for Japan. Prolly NLA from the early days of Wallmart. What's with all the cotton all over the ground?

The oil pan from 26th restored. The plate on the side was actually braised to the pan. Now a question I have. Was the alternator pulley painted or plated? I know the fan blades are plated, but the engine service manual, even though black and white photographs, shows what appears to be a painted pulley.

I concur, Dan. My Nov. 1969 engine manual lists the same information however the parts catalog says 40amp. I don't know why. I'll have to dig mine out and have a look at the stampings on the castings. In the mean time, a couple of pictures to reference the color blue and the overspray on the oil pan. The oil pan in front is correct for early engines as it has the reinforced plate on the side. Service bulletin TS70-28 from August 21, 1970 shows an eight counterweight crankshaft replacing the six counterweight shaft. As I have understood, this was due to vibrations which I believe caused the oil pan to crack. Thus engine serial #'s prior to L24-3607 would have the reinforced pan. Notice the paint "overspray".

Thanks Dan. I agree. Haven't gone through a resto of a smog pump yet. The only one I have is at the bottom of 27th and I haven't looked at that poor babe in quite a while. I was going on memory when I wrote.

The old site still works. http://suncoastzcarclub.homestead.com/

Hope these help

Kats' website is a great reference and he has some fascinating stuff posted. Let me see if I can be of further help. The block is, of course, blue. That paint can be purchased in spray cans from the manufacturer http://www.towerpaint.com/ or http://zzxdatsun.com/ or http://www.classicdatsun.com/ When the blocks were originally painted, they were assembled engines so original engines had a lot of overspray on parts that had other finishes. For instance, the head is normally natural aluminum but it has overspray blue next to the block. So it goes for engine mounts (black) and the heater hose fittings (cad plate) and the oil pan (black). The front damper pulley is blue and the nut is cad plated with overspray. The adjustment arm to hold the alternator is blue. I'm not certain because mine are restored black, but I think the alternator pulley and the fan blade for the alternator are cad plate. The alternator casing is natural aluminum and be aware that the early alternators were what we call the grapefuit type. The end plate is silver zinc plate with overspray. The front timing cover is natural aluminum (with overspray). The fan clutch is natural aluminum and the metal type fan is cream white. The air pump is a mixture of blue and natural aluminum with the pulley cad plate. Bolts and fittings were all cad plate but depending on location may be painted to match the surrounding part. Point being that Nissan did not build "bling" engines as we see so commonly in show cars. They were mass assembled and painted with little regard to masking - overspray is common. Let me dig for pictures as I am going from memory at the moment.

Yes...magnesium road wheel for the PZ; 5-1/2"J x 14", 40300-E4200. The center cap is 40343-E4200. The scews to hold the caps on are 40347-E4200 and the lug nuts are 40224-E4200. Balancing weights come in 10 gram increments begining with 440321-E4200 at 10 grams and ending with 40330-E4200 at 100 grams.

Merry Christmas, Patrick, and all my Z-pals! Happy New Year...may the Z of enlightenment and prosperity fall across your bumper! Enjoy the Ride!

I am budgeting $1,200 per set to re-chrome them, however I have seen the cost as much as $3,000 a set. That price included painting which I plan to do myself. I found these pictures to toss into the ring. Evidently, the "hex hub" pressing came in both versions.

How funny is this! A week or so ago, I decided to pull a box of old photographs out of the closet and look for historic Z shots. Back in those days, I shot slide film because it was cheap and we always had slide shows at garage gatherings. I was curious about what had survived the decades. I don't have any pictures of PLN. He was just one of the guys at the races back then. I remember sitting with him at Daytona, eating a sandwich, and talking about the cars and the heat. Anyhow, I fired up the scanner and tried my luck at scanning slides. This is my first attempt at scanning slides. Not very easy, I must say. The first five slides are from the 1973 American Road Race of Champions at Road Atlanta. Bob Sharp won the race in C production. The last slide is Bob at the 1971 Paul Whiteman Trophy Races in Daytona. Enjoy

Thought I would post some pictures of various wheels used in the design of the S30. These are crops of larger pictures - sorry for the quality - but the images are interesting. The blue car is from a Matsuo design sketch. The other pictures are from various prototype mock-ups and the file is labeled to the year. Finally, a Silvia production wheel / cap. Notice the similarity to one of the prototypes?

Mike did give you a 'heads up' didn't he? Air this out elsewhere.

I want to reference this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32485&highlight=Nissan+hubcaps here. Post #21 on. Does anyone have dealer brochures or early photographs of the Skyline which would show us the style in 1968? That would be interesting. Photos: 1970 Geneva Auto Show 1970 New York Auto Show 1970 Press Introductory All show the valve stem hole centered on a spoke. I also want to note that in my search of photos to post I looked at a lot of the mock-up prototypes and they all have different wheels / caps than the cap style we are discussing. Something to discuss with Matsuo san the next time I see him!

Mike, Notice that valve stem holes in the 3 of the caps are between the spokes and the other cap has the hole at the base of the spoke.

$30 framed is way too low. Someone got a deal.