26th-Z

Hello halz, I have a couple of Competition Parts Catalogs listing headers and exhaust systems for the 240Z. These catalogs are fairly early, addressing the L24 engine through 1972. Datsun USA shows a part number listing "240Z Exhaust System" - a complete muffled dual pipe exhaust system from the engine to the back of the car. 99996-E1045 No photograph is shown. The Japanese Competition Parts Catalogs "HS30 Sports Options Parts" 12/73, as well as "Fairlady Z, RS30 / HS30 Sports Option Parts" 3/76, lists 14004-E4620 for the headers and 20000-E7276 for the exhaust tube kit. Other parts such as gaskets and hangers are shown and noted, but the descriptions are all in Japanese. Hope this helps. NISMO indeed is the performance / racing arm of Nissan.

There's a lot of info on the net about using acids for rust removal. Some of the more concentrated acids such as Naval Jelly (35% phosphoric acid) can do some damage if not cleaned off properly. Acid in that high concentration will eat the metal. Something like OPSHO (less that 12% phosphoric acid) is considered a rust encapsulator because it is so weak.

Vicky, Yes probably as my parts fiche lists superceed numbers up to 12 / 79. It gets quite confusing, but just dealing with the right side of the car, and both inner and outer panels are involved, the outer panels are: 73120-E4100 - roof panel 73270-E4100 - tail rail 78100-E4600 - rear fender There are a number of inner panels as well as a corner brace involved that make up the box section through that area. I could look, but I'll bet there is an inner panel seam to match the outer. In my Chassis and Body Service Manual, this area is described through section E-E of Figure BF-59 "Sealing Body Panel Joint" and appears on page BF-31. Of course, this is all early series information, but it seems to be all the same up to 1979. I have had this area down to bare metal before and the seam in Her Majesty is filled with lead. It does crack and heating the area is done to fill it again.

Bob, Spots are usually bigger once you get in to them, but if they are less than 1/2" diameter, you can drill them out an exact diameter and weld a flush "punch" back in. Look for a slug punch tool from some place like Eastwood that makes a metal slug in a specific diameter from sheet metal. There are a range of sizes available and it beats trying to make a patch. Drill a hole that is much bigger than the rust bubble to get the rust around the edges of the bubble. The slug fits flush and it is a true metal patch. Watch out with acids. Make sure you clean the area to get all the acid off.

Vicky, That seam laps multiple sheets of stampings and on the early cars is a real lead filled joint.

And this is the racing variant. It is lighter and spends money faster.

You need to get the Magic Datsun Money Clip. It never runs out. This is the restoration variant.

The Blues Brothers As long as you are going to mention LeMans with Steve McQueen (don't even talk to me if you haven't seen it 20 times and bought the DVD), don't miss Grand Prix with James Garner. The new BMW films are pretty good, too.

I'll confirm that!!! I spent $6500 on Her Majesty in 1991 and I'm about to do it again. And she's been in storage for five years! I guess if you are going to take your car down to a stage that you can sand blast, you won't abuse it so much by letting it sit out in the rain. Down here, it's not good to let the car see sunlight.:classic: I might suggest that a car completely stripped is the best candidate for sand blasting because the mess can be cleaned up the easiest. I aggree it's too messy to blast areas without taking the car apart. And there are areas in the frame that would trap media and be difficult to clean out.

The plastic interior panels are held in by plastic expansion rivets that attach by pushing the pin in after the rivet has been secured. You need approximately 25 to do a car. They are usually available in any color you want as long as it is black and I'm guessing they run $1 each (usually in packs of 10). There are some areas that use screws, and the screws are either chrome counter sunk phillips head or black anodized counter sunk machine screws. This also depends on the model. A few areas require a chrome scew and grommet, either chrome or clear plastic. Here are some blue 280ZX rivets on eBay now

Oh...Here we go again!!!!! ROFL

Thanks. Lets see how this works. Edit: Perfect! Thanks Old dog just learned a new trick!

Thanks kats. The hubcaps are great! I wonder if the hex caps fit on the hub cap like the "D"s do. Just great many thanks. edit: No! They are part of the pressing. Just great.

Sorry to take so long getting back to this. Somebody needs to coach me through the quote insert part. I don't know how to insert a quote. Hello Alan! You listed some part numbers for fuel door locks. You'll get a kick out of this - it is so Datsun. My fiche lists the two thumb latches as 84360-E4601 and later E4602. I believe 01 is plastic and 02 is metal - both chromed. The two 78820-E8200 and E8201 numbers are listed as key cylinder type and optional. No dates are listed and there is no 78820-E4100 listed. So Datsun. I'll mention this for interest. I don't know what you think of the idea, but molds can be made of the emblem / badges and reproductions cast - easily in plastic. I am casting plastic and rubber parts. It is quite likely that a chrome finish could be applied to the plastic casting. Hey kats! Please post a picture of the hubcaps. I would like to see what they look like.

I can confirm the vented hat brake rotors from HLS30-00026. I believe I have the same problem with the rotors, and noticed the difference when I bought replacements, but now I will look into restoring them.

I saw a new kit from Studio 27. A Group C March 87G (Calsonic) Nissan from LeMans 1988. The V6 twin turbo car prior to the GTP Nissans. $150!!! Zowie! I picked up the Fujimi Fairlady Z432 I have been looking for and a Fujimi Fairlady PS30Z 432R. One was $19 and the other was $24, both with engine detail.

Hey Marty! I was looking for that thread where we were discussing LeBaron-Bonney and came across this one. The sample arrived today. It is from page 92 of their catalog - part US 121, 35" wide rolls at $3.99 a yard or something like that. The insulation "jute" is a synthetic fiber mat about 1/4" thick and it is grey in color with red fibers - grey red. It is not brown (light or dark) like original, but it is the same consistancy and thickness. Actually, this is much nicer material than original. Much more dense (denser?). The finish is fibrous but smooth and it looks like two bonded layers - one side is greyer than red and the other side is redder than grey. I could easily use this under the tunnel vinyl and my only hesitation about using this under the carpeting on the floors, would be the horror on the faces of the purists who pull up my carpeting to check for rusted floors or forbid, original jute.:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth This stuff reminds me of the "jute" that comes bonded to some carpet kits, but with out the plastic finish.

My compliments, Alan. I'm impressed. :classic:

Hello Caen Fred and I can't thank you enough for the link www.hlj.com I found EVERYTHING I was looking for, ordered stuff that was even listed as backordered, communicated easily and this morning they shipped it all from Japan. I'll let you know when the stuff arrives, but so far this has been the find of the century for S30 models. Check this place out. It is all in english and they have everything I have seen described NLA on eBay.

Not a bad idea at all. I would venture to guess the #3 driver is a little worse off than the #2 driver, but I would love to hear an explanation.

Yea. Isn't that great? Hey kats - the Z is white! Too cute.:classic: Oh! I forgot...I called this morning and HLS30-00016 has a chrome Z.

FISCO stands for Fuji International Speedway Company, I think and the badge is from an event - I'll bet motorcycle races - in May 1966. That's my best guess.

theswan, Your question comes up quite often and I encourage you to web search "rust removal", "acid dipping", "metal restoration", and "media blasting". You will find all kinds of information. I don't like the acid dipping approach because it is difficult to stabilize the acids and they will do as much damage over time as rust. Your observation about the effects of media blasting could lead to trouble as well, trapping material inside the chassis. I encourage you to look at "electrolytic dipping" as a safer alternative. You will have the seam seal and primer issues to contend with, the chassis will be cleaned to bare metal inside and out without damage to any metal plating that has been done originally, and any rust issue will be eliminated. All of the seam seal areas are accessible. I will use a long wand to spray primer inside the frame as best I can.

I'll have to get some pictures for you kats. The metal latches have smooth rounded edges, and the plastic latches are square cut without any taper or roundness(?) to the edges. #16 has a plastic one and my car used to have the plastic thumb latch, but after 30 years..... I was trying to clean it and broke it. The plastic latch looks as though it was a part for prototype before refined for production. I was talking to Chloe about the gas door locks and didn't realize how unique they are. I suspect they were keyed with the doors and deck lid - seperate from the ignition? Back to the subject - too bad the part number is not on the part! I think you have a good explanation of E4600, chrome Z, but I don't think the dates apply exactly to production. Only to part inventory. My explanation would be that E4601 was placed into service 2/70 and used after the E4600 part supply on the production line ran out. That would explain why later cars would have an earlier part. I don't know this, but if there were several production lines, parts on one line may have been different from parts on another line depending on how fast they were used up. One line may have started using E4601 as soon as it was available while another line may have used E4600 through 3/70. After discussing this with you, kats, and thinking "unique is a good thing", I am inclined to use the chrome Zs.

Yes TomoHawk, These guys look at cars so often, they have their own lingo to describe an overall condition or impression of any particular car. If we were collecting coins, for example, we would be using grading standards to describe the condition, such as MS, VS and further substandards like MS-60, MS-65. In our car world, I see "daily driver", 50/50 rule, and the descriptions you just refered to. And it is all subjective! I just read an article in AutoWeek about a $57,000 Plymouth 'Cuda (1971) that the writer thought should have been priced around $30,000 sighting such things as door dings and chips in the original paint. (Not to mention the engine had been changed - original for the car, but not THE original engine) He expressed; "Better than a driver, but not stunning". What's the difference between a #2 driver and a #3 driver? Opinion, most likely. Educated, experienced opinion. Mr. Jackson's expertise is from looking at thousands of cars and the show discusses the differences in an educational format - applying certain terms to describe the differences, likes and dislikes he sees in a car. The show is interesting because they show a bunch of cars and educational because they use a set description to convey their opinion. The one sentence I though most pertinent to the AutoWeek article was; "But the market speaks with it's wallet".