duffymahoney

Here is what I used for rear disks. You have to cut the dust shield off, or like me just unbolted it. Brackets- https://zcardepot.com/all-products/brakes/rear-brakes/rear-disc-brake-caliper-conversion-bracket-set-disk 1986 maxima calipers- Ebay then rebuilt and powdercoated 1985 300zx rotors- Cross drilled and zinc- http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts/rear-disk-conversion-rotors Stainless lines – Stop tech 800-1099- I think i got these from zcardepot.

Got hub parts back from the plater and a new to me series 1 coin tray. One tiny tiny crack around the screw hole. Excited since mine was terrible. Gosh I love zinc:)!

Left is the cheaper spirit garage. I am leaning that way, I love the look of the dual going into the muffler and how high it would tuck. I need to find out more, but this looks to be an adapter from stock manifold to the spirit garage. I might keep my motor and manifold stock for now. Then upgrade down the road. My stock exhaust is shot though. https://www.rhdjapan.com/spirit-garage-dual-support-exhaust-outlet-l6.html

I like the twin pipe all the way back like spirit garage. Looks cleaner and tucked up.

Putting new pads on disks is so so easy, they also look cooler:)

I hate drums:) But I am sure they are fine for 99.9% of people.

That looks like the maxima caliper. So they are 1984 Nissan Maxima calipers. This is the same swap I am doing. I found the bracket online for like 65. Then I bought the rebuilt calipers, bolts right on. You keep the E brake.

Nice! I always wanted a white one.

My plater is does it for aerospace and military. So I assume they do it correctly. I would worry more about the actual metal that is 46 years old:)

All high end bolts are zinc. ARP, wheel studs. Suspension bolts, drive line bolts etc...are zinc coated.

I got talked out of my powder coating on these parts after spending so many hours masking off and detailing them. So then I had to burn the old powder off. Glass beaded them and then hours of wire wheel polishing. Now off to zinc. Should look awesome with the gold zinc and the powder coated bodies and BC coil overs in the similar gold.

I got the precision seals, baked them on warm in my oven for an hour, installed them, shut the door and tried to not open it. Now over a month and they seem pretty darn good. I don't have to slam it. Just for info.

Well everyone has changed my mind, I am going to pull apart the front hubs and rear stub axle, strip the powder and zinc them. Just like this.

Some good info

Are they using ppg?

Most of my paint was basically intact. I bet they did it to prevent rusting. Most paint is pretty thin, mine was as thick as a few coats of rattle can.

Now that is a scientific answer. They are cardinal powder which says epoxy for the colors I use. I am also not bolting powder to powder on anything. Powder to aluminum, powder to raw or powder to 2 part paint.

Criticism is a good thing. I don't know that much about cars and learn from mistakes. No worries:)

Sometimes I think I am doing the strangest build. Cleaning up everything but the paint:) The paint is like a 6 out of 10. Good from afar but far from good. I just have been burned too many times in the painting process. Too long, too much money etc.. I just want to enjoy and actually drive one of my cars. Tires are a 205/55-15 DUNLOP DIREZZA on ROTA WHEELS RKR 15X8 +0 4X114.3. Here is my inspiration.

I ended up getting a few of the smallest size for the fuel lines. Which you didn't list. I have 80% or so of my stock ones replated, but a few were broken or missing.

I bought some as well. Thanks!

That's was my plan for alignment. It's funny about the powder or paint on all of this, it's very 50/50 on peoples opinions. Some people are very very against it, then I talk with high end build shops/ race shops (icon, nicks trixs and 2 nascar teams) they all say it's perfectly fine, no issues to worry about. I trust the high end shops/ race shops more then the average user on facebook or here. I'm also not the first person to do this, lots and lots of people have powder coated/ painted them on lots of vehicles with zero issues and companies offer it as part of a package. If I was to do it over, I would zinc the faces and the mating surfaces. But that would fail pretty quickly. Zinc isn't that strong. Bolts and nuts are what hold everything together, not metal to metal or rust to rust or powder to paint. If I take a wheel off at some point and find the powder failing and turning to chalk I will remove it all, but I have a feeling it will look perfectly normal.

Any tips for doing a basic alignment? I was thinking I could measure the front and back of the tires on the ground? Then adjust?

I had my original soldered onto my new radiator.

Have you tried dpan on facebook?