duffymahoney
Community Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by duffymahoney
-
Could you swap 1 and 2. That will show you for sure if it’s float or needle?
-
I really liked the gas line routing. I was planning on copying it actually, I like the idea of a return line to the tank. What fuel pump are you using? Stock? Electric? Both? I like the idea of using stock fuel lines. You might try plugging the return to see if it pushes fuel into each better?
-
Powder is thicker then paint. But that depends on how much is used, I had him go thin. Powder melts at around 500 degrees. I can see the half shafts getting that hot. All surfaces mate up nicely with the powder. I guess I could remove it. But I could just check all bolts after a break in period. Which was my plan already. Any other input? Don’t the bolts hold it in place?
-
-
-
Got the drive lines back today from having u joints pressed in. They came out pretty good, paint/ powder had some nicks from their press, so I had to do some touch up paint. The tech didn't like the powder on the end of the flanges. He said the powder will eventually wear down and cause slop. Anyone heard of this? Or think he is correct?
-
-
They make rebuild kits for them, depends on what is wrong with yours.
-
Have them bring it to the store, if it's a stock reman then you are good, most likely it will be a knock off.
-
-
Hard to tell, but I think there is, it's depth matches stock.
-
-
-
-
-
Since I have a series 1 the brake lines are reversed on the wilwood MC. So I had to buy lines and bend them. What a pain, they don't look great, but I was about to throw them in the garbage when I finally figured it out. I also removed some over spray and also cleaned up some wiring around the coil. Also got my fake wats star wars rogue squadron hub cap centers! Dorky, but I love them. Broke off the exhaust studs, tried welding to them, but my welds just break. I think my two options are either remove the manifold or drill and tap, if I can get them drilled out easily.
-
I bent my own lines, it was a pain, but it ended up working. They are switched, it's hard to see in the picture.
-
Not a lot of force, mine was bad, same early design. Ended up going wilwood.
-
I am switching all stock hoses out, all look pretty good but are brittle or cracked. I decided against braided, partly because all I found said they won't work with ethanol and partly because I don't want the braids trapping dirt and grease. I got all but the larger diameter installed (close to 5/8). The 5/8th I got was a strangely large OD. So it wouldn't work. Found one online that will though. Routing them was a pain. Going with all hoses rated for ethanol. The evap tank is crazy design. Also replaced all the grommets. I am so happy with the level of rust on this Z. This area sure looks amazing.
-
Well the wilwood 1" MC fits and the stock air cleaner can barely I mean barely can come on and off. You have to move the the bleeders to the other sides. I also set the pushrod around 8mm longer then stock, I ended up measuring the depth of stock and going off of that, this is because the wilwood is deeper. Now I just need to bend new lines and it should be ready. I got the unit off of california datsun, came setup for the z with fittings and drilled out.
-
-
-
-
-
You could have it vapor blasted.
