duffymahoney

Fun project!

Looks like silvermine runs the cable over the ebrake. I just thought it would have been too tight of a turn in the line.

No on the carbs. I now own 7- Mikuni 44s and 1 narrow 40. Who knows:) I think this is the best I can get for the brake lines.

I got all brake lines attached and ready. Also got the ebrake working. Pretty productive sat morning. Now time to bleed them. Think I should put the line on the other side of the ebrake? It should travel together.

I got my extra intake back from ztherapy. I went with the euro style balance tube. They look great. I think i will have the heat shield ceramic coated in black or maybe silver. Now to decide on them or my collection mikunis. I have some sort of Japanese carb addiction.

Thanks for posting! I am definitely jealous of your collection.

Wow, also it should be a crime to not post pictures:)

Want to sell the wat caps? Those are the stock rota caps with custom stickers. They are actually rogue squadron logos from Star Wars.

Got the rears installed, took a lot longer to do than expected. Spindle pins are directional, learned that the hard way. Also used a thin metal putty knife to slip the hub into the arms. The tolerances are very tight. Grease, time and some learning and it went on.

Got the rears ready to install and the fronts hoses all installed. Making progress!

No spacer needed, I believe they even work with stock. I got them through silverminemotors

Just plain sexy.

They are going on. I am using this method from Bill Morgan Fronts should be snugged to 18.1-21.7 ft-lb (2.5-3.0 kg-m) while turning the hub, then back off the nut 60° to align with a cotter pin hole. Starting torque should be 3.47-7.37 in-lb (4.0-8.5 kg-cm).

Finally got my front and rears back from having bearings pressed in. Gosh I love zinc and powder coating. Anyone have a secret for the front hubs. Snug then back out then snug again? Torque?

2-3 months ago. I baked them in the oven on warm for 2 hours, installed, left the door shut for a couple of days. Then got some rubber conditioner, then opening and closing them over and over made them almost stock. Still not fully ready yet, but happy.

My precisions work fine. Took some time, no need to slam.

Collection of carbs is growing. 2 more. 40 and 44. Both missing a lot of smalls. I probably overpaid, but hey I am having fun! All are in amazing condition. These haven't been used since the 80s. The insides look never used. Also got a hilarious dcoe intake for a chevy.

Following, I think this is on my list of mods after triples.

I need to move, get a shop and a car lift. 2 project cars is a lot:)

Not really an update, still waiting on bearings to be pressed in. But I got a NOS service manual. I decided on 1970 since mine is a series 1 1/71 build. It's so cool. Goes nicely with my other manuals.

Congrats! I’m jealous:)

I found a great deal on some ztheraphy carbs from the same year series 1. So I jumped on it, I will do the euro style balance tube and have the intakes polished to match and re-zinc everything. Should look great. I will remove mine and put them away for safe keeping. If I ever sell it I want the owner to be able to go back to stock if he or she wanted. I also got a type 4 mikuni 44. It's in amazing conditon. I am going to try and piece a set together. Or am i just hoarding carbs?:)

Man, this would be so nice in my z:) Let us know you decide shipping is an option.

I really wish i would have done black zinc on all the u-joint knuckles.

I have not driven mine, but the consensus on all the Z forums and facebook is that the rear disks aren't needed. Most people either can't tell a difference or any gain. Some claim loses in braking power. I did it because my drums were toast and i like the look and ease of disks. That's about it. Hope that helps