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Ozone hole re-fueling from China https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-48353341

I first used a dremel tool to cut away the peened/staked part of the nut, but having changed many wheel bearings since, I just get a very small cold chisel and wedge it between the bolt and the nut to push the deformed part outward. Works great. Tip... use a grinder to keep the cold chisel tip in good form.

I had a similar problem. It was due to the ignition switch in the steering column "carboning up". When turning the key fully Clockwise (100%) to Crank/Start, only the electrical contact in the switch for the starter would make, the EFI/ignition contact was kaput and would not give spark. The mystery was that this was intermittent... but becoming worse. I found that if I turned the key to crank only ~ 80% to 90% of the way (where the electrical contacts would all make, it would start fine. Changing out the switch cured the problem.

The car looks great on the road!

Ditto. Been thinking of John often lately and realized it has been over 3 years. RIP.

popping out front is usually due to timing or lean mixture.

The 240Z Guild (Facebook Wankers Hiding behind the great wall?)

Cliff is same age as the first Z's! Cooooool Here is HLS30-01969:

OK. I thought the Dyno screens was rpm but it was kph so that clarifies it.

Your close and vibrant family impressed me when visiting. I'm glad they are all OK. It will be a great family get-together conversation for many years down the road.

I noticed the Dyno RPM on the screen seems off? Was the dyno working OK?

They must have installed the American Standard upgrade kit on that Z. For the neighbours.... reminds me of a movie:

These rooftop pictures of prototypes in 1968 certainly had high-back seats and a refined interior. The black wheel in the targa and the the centre console are different. Copy cats in 69:

Mr Matsuo is a genius! Thinking so far ahead of the world.

Could be water pump or timing chain area. It sounded louder when filming at the front and at the back. It seems somewhat random occasionally so it may not be crank related.

Idle then pull each plug wire one at a time and see if the clunk changes. A mechanic's stethoscope will help to isolate.

I like how the pressure releases when the exhaust valve opens a crack....long before the piston even is on the way up. A huge high pressure wave released into the exhaust manifold.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-Prototype-Radiator-Support-Panel-Right-Side/293082385764?hash=item443d124d64%3Ag%3AWxgAAOSweqNc1d-k&LH_ItemCondition=4

A friend of a friend's z ?

I put a 78 booster on a 71. Some drilling but it worked great.

What is timing set to?

which throws most air?

plastic parts look like timing chain guide spring is from a crank seal most likely.