240260280

Some details @kats may like: It is interesting that both Tokico and Hitachi made some of the rubber parts. Hitachi part numbers seem to start with "222-" The parts were purchased in 1974. The diaphragm below is 6" diameter. 44100-E4127 Kit-A 44100-E4127 (Kit-A) 44112-30001 Rear 7/8 Wheel Cylinder Seal 44124-E0210 Dust Cover 41129-30001 Bleeder Cap 44144-E4110 Dust Cover 222-2110011 6" Hitachi Brake Booster Diaphragm 222-24100 6" Hitachi Brake Booster Front Seal

I think it should go to Steve Nixon for the community.

https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/pecas-datsun-240z-travagem-IDz8bHP.html#af6aa94a5e 240z NOS all brake rubbers and rebuilds for master, wheel cylinders, and vacuum booster. Even has the bleeders and caps.

You do not have to shim the head if you are changing the timing chain: 1. You can move the chain a link and use the 3 optional cam positions to align the timing mark on the cam sprocket where you want it. (The crank sprocket will be at TDC). 2. Once aligned you then adjust the slack side guide to take up all the slack so that the tensioner is pressed all the way in. Some top bolt holes on the slack side guide need a bit of reaming to move clockwise to take up the slack.

I'm in portugal until Monday. I'll plot after that. Yes plug spill jets and increase main to get a/f below 13.7 on wot run from 3000 to 6000 rpm.

Cliff, @siteunseen I am sorry to correct you but you are actually correct. The original head bolt washers have a smooth edge on the top side and a sharp edge on the bottom side. Got your back! :)

Wow they look great! While you were fixing your Z @duffman and I were optimizing his setup which is similar to yours (L28 w 40DCO 151). Here are his settings: Weber DCOE 40 151 choke - 32 mm Auxiliary- 4.5 mm Float needle valve - 1.75 Fuel level - 27 mm Idle jets - (drilled: 60F9 with air drilled to 150 (Equivalent to 60F15) ) Idle mix screws - 2 1/4 turns out Emulsion tube - F2 Main jets - 135 Air corrector jet - 161 (drilled) Pump jet- 45 Pump exhaust - 50 He is setup for flat 13.3 A/F WOT from 3000 to 6000 Cruise at 30mph is 14.5 Cruise at 60mph is 14.5 Idle is 14.5 His car is set up like EFI!

I'll be there on Friday until 19th.

Overflowing fuel bowls is usually too much pressure from the pump. It causes the fuel levels in the bowls to rise and the fuel easily runs down the pipe to the Aux Venturi. Another reason to set fuel level 27mm to 30mm down rather than the internet myth of 25mm down (unless you run an old 4cyl Lotus it seems). Once fuel sloshes to 23mm up, it pours into the throat of the carb.

Finished L26 rebuild. All went well. The owner is happy. Three of us lifted the engine and placed it in the back of a Nissan X-Trail using the multi-functional "Zedy Cart". It provided great lifting hand-holds when strapped to the motor. @Zedyone_kenobi

I concur with Charles. Fuel pressure seems to have gone high.

Yikes! Your engine rebuild is passing mine!! And you are restoring a car too.

Try to find a local experienced SU carb mechanic. Check with local British or Datsun car clubs to find one. They will get you going fast. Don't take it to a service station or dealer as it will be a waste of money. You need to find a mechanic with experience in SU carbs. Most car clubs know where they are.

Clean jet and dirty, sticky jet: Jet is #20 below Here you can see jet with arm from choke that pushes it down (and does not return):

Popping in exhaust usually is caused by too much fuel. Z SU carbs can over-fuel if the center jet get's stuck down. You can usually reach under the carb and push it up.

Chopped Liver

Sounds like you nailed some of the issues that caused the PO to use the band-aid solution. If you address the rad and water pump you will have peace of mind. Also consider changing all rubber coolant hoses and inspect the throats where they attach (they can corrode).

Step A. 1. Pour gas into bowls through vent holes. Don't worry if you spill some. 2. Start the car. Hopefully it will run long enough to prime the pump Step B. If it only runs until the fuel in the bowl is consumed, then your problem is upstream of the carbs and bowls 1. Get a can of fuel and put it next to the front passenger wheel. 2. Run a fuel hose from the can to the bottom of the fuel filter. 3. Repeat Step A. Step C. If the car does not run off the fuel in the can then your problem is the fuel pump or fuel filter, or fuel rail. If the car runs from the fuel can in step B then your problem is upstream from the pump & filter. 1. Move the fuel can to the back of the car next to the passenger wheel. 2. Connect a hose from the fuel can to the larger hard line where it starts just in front of the fuel tank. 3. Repeat Step A. Step D. If the car does not run off the fuel in the can then your problem is the fuel line from the back of the car to the front. If the car runs from the fuel can in step B then your problem is the tank or hose to the tank.

I would change all components associated with the cooling system and the head gasket to be safe. Never assume a previous owners had ability, finances, or decency to maintain or repair the car.

As Cliff has mentioned: "Liquid Copper"

Not much changed in 48 years!

@FilipeA I'll be in Lisbon area in a couple of weeks. Please PM me if you want to meet.

@Gugat. I'll be in Portugal in a couple of weeks. Please PM if you wish to connect. I'll be in Lisbon area.