duffman

SB Needles to Resolve Lean WOT with SUs

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    I like stories with happy endings!

    If you don't mind sharing, what was your source in Australia?

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    CP or Competition Products is the name on eBay, but the direct website is sumidel.com, they provided the SB needles for around $40 delivered to Arizona.

    Edited by duffman

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    Are these the ones you ordered

    NEEDLE (SB)

    $12.50

    Product Code: AUD1318

    **Please choose your metering needle carefully as they are non-returnable. All sales are final**

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    Good results!

    So was there a thread here on the forum where you were working on fixing the WOT lean out problem with the SUs? I don't remember such a thread, but that sure doesn't mean it didn't happen.    LOL

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    No, CO, I did not create a thread about this in the past.  I read other threads about fuel levels, fuel pressure, etc.  I even learned how to rebuild SUs and bought old sets, rebuilt them and sold about 15 sets on eBay!  I learned a lot about how they worked, but I could never get my SUs to attain desired performance on my Z.  I guess after a while I just decided to live with it!  My triple Weber adventure taught me that I can get more from my Z than what I was able to get with SUs.  There had to be something I was missing, that other people were able to attain great results with SUs and there was no reason I could not either.  So, pursued a variable I thought would make a difference and solve my problem; needles that allow more fuel on acceleration or WOT!  

    Edited by duffman
    • Like 1

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    How many turns down for the mix nuts with the SB's?  I tried SM's for my modified 240z engine but found I had to drop the mix nuts a couple of extra turns to get it to idle, which made it way too rich at midrange, fouling the plugs. That's because the SM's (and other British needles that fit, as far as I know) are 0.099 at station 1, compared to 0.090 for the stock Hitachi needles, like N-27's. When I installed a modified 280/280zx engine, the first needles I tried were modified (richer at mid-range and top end) N-27's. Looks like my AFR numbers are about where the engine builder wants them so I guess I lucked out.

    Checked my book, it shows SB's same as SM's at the top two stations, then they start to lean out more than SM's like you said. Anyway, your AFR numbers look OK, so however it works, it works. I've read where someone planned to drill out the nozzles to use British needles. Have also read about pushing the needles up into at piston as far as they'll go which is about 1/8" or 1 station higher than FSM says to put them. But that would only get you to 0.095 at the top station (if my 1/8" measurement guess is correct), not .090.

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    About 2 1/4 turns down for me provides the right mixture. I tried moving my SMS up into the piston but that richened my idle and goofed up everything for me. As I said the top 2 stations, as you put it, on the SB needles are similar to the SM, then get richer as you go down the needle. This, more fuel at midrange and top end, with no change at idle.


    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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    I think there might be another variable or two in play here that would explain why your results with the British needles were different from mine. Not at all sure but here's a couple possibilities. About three years ago I swapped my old nozzles for a couple of brand new ones. I compared the old and new ones. The old ones were worn - bigger diameter holes than new which would allow more gas to flow (the car ran OK with the old nozzles). Also, I didn't try the British needles with the larger engine. I guess more displacement would create more vacuum, pulling the piston and needle higher and so allowing it to run at idle. If those two theories get shot down (fire away, C.O. !) then I got nothing.

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    I second Stanley's supposition that there's a possibility of at least one of the two things he suggested contributing to the issue. I struggled with a similar issue, only to discover that after replacing my nozzles with a set of brand new ones, the problem was gone. If you have wallowed out nozzles or they become oval from needles that are not perfectly true (not always easy to see) you will struggle with optimizing how your car runs. The $100 I spent simultaneously for new nozzles and needles was worth the headaches avoided. 

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    I spent quite some time tuning my 3.1L stroker with SUs and found RH needles to work best (they are leaner than the SB ones). Still, cruise AFR is a little too rich. 

    Ian Hamiltons needle tool is great for doing needle research!

     

    smvssb.PNG

     

    The tool can be found here: http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm

    Edited by german240
    • Like 1

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    Thanks, german240, will have to research the needle graphing tool to understand it.  I really like the index of carb how-to books, etc, that are listed by MK1, great to have!!

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    Great find.  It's odd that my F54 with a shaved P79 endurance race engine has near perfect AFR with SM needles.  I have a Web #91 cam and a header, but it's otherwise a pretty simple build.  

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    Jeff, I agree, it is weird!  I have been running lean on WOT since I got my carbs back from Ztherapy rebuilding them, just lived with it.  I wish I had the RH needles to see how different they would be on my car.

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    There must be some other factor at work that we are missing.  I guess as long as you found a solution, all is good.  

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