sblake01

US 260Z's were built through November 74 due to Nissan being late in the development of the 1975 280Z which didn't come out until December 74. The 260Z's built from August 74 through November 74 would actually be 75 models at least they would have been registered as such.

Well, actually, no. Having a hole there just creates a vacuum leak. And basically you've just put a bandaid on it. Were I you, I'd replace that duct soon. They're still available.

In some cases it's better to ignore than explain.

I'd have to agree. For the best overall performance, use the S.U.'s. By the time you fiddle around with that Holley to the point that it more or less works, all you end up with is a compromise. And bad gas mileage. I, personally, don't know of anyone that ever got the tuning right on a Holley 4bbl equipped L series. And, unless you plan to do more to that L24 than you described in your post, the same goes for 40mm triples. I don't understand the tuning question as a factor of whether or whether not to use a particular induction system on 240Z's. What's so hard about tuning S.U.'s? They're much easier than dialing in Holleys, Webers, Mikunis, etc.

I think I'm done in this thread.

Tomohawk, I don't understand the comment. Are you taking over for Mckrack? Look at the other wheels in the thread.

Those aren't the wheels she's asking about.

I use the Fram DG8A which is just the 'double guard' version of the PH8A on both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 which is set up like a ZX with the angled filter mount but it still fits.

Put that battery on a charger, give it a full chage and see if it holds before you buy a new one.

How low was your battery? Does it hold a charge? If your battery is weak you might be overworking the alternator since it's main function is to maintain the battery's charge, not charge it. Do you have the right fusible link in that position? The link you described is the one for the Alternator/Ignition relay (Black-80A, front box, closest to the fender). Make sure you don't have a Red-50A link there.

He's already on my ignore list. Doesn't help much though since he always gets quoted. And I've always just trashed his pm's. I already pm'd Mike earlier about this but he hasn't responded to me yet.

Yep, there's always hope. You should have seen my truck when I first got it. And there are no replacement panels for a 320 pickup available that I know of.

Being taught and learning are two different things, I guess. Oh, and Burt or Baruch or whatever the hell your name is, you know that I won't reply directly to you, since you suck, so don't bother. I'm just curious how long Mike et. al. plan to put up with him (you).

Darbji, we have a new member whom may have your wheels. Look at the second picture. If he still has them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28107

I see no one it touching JimmyZ's comment! I think his name is actually Fabio.

Put the filter somewhere inline before the fuel pump. Leave the oil, it's supposed to be there. That's part of it's circulation route and it lubes the distributor drive. It's okay as long as it doens't get past the o ring. In fact, if you remove the oil, it's will come back to that area as soon as you start the car.

Welcome. From what I see in the pics, you did a great job! Love the color choice. There's a girl on this site from Northwest Indiana whom I think would be quite interested in you old wheels if you still have them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28083

The broken wire in post #1 is coming off the "E" post as shown in post #5 so a capacitor should not have been connected there. But it does appear in post #1 that the ground wire is connected though the rubber cover is not over the terminal. But I agree-test the alternator.

If you didn't see the oil until you pulled the distributor out, the o ring is good. Put the dizzy back in. As far as the rocks in the fuel pump, well, that can't be good! I've never experienced that one but those rocks had to come from somewhere.

Check this out: No one has posted any pics in it for a while but Mike started in about 4 1/2 years ago. Maybe this will get it going again. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=552&password=

That test if for an internally regulated alternator. On a 240Z w/external regulator the test is basically the same except the positive probe goes on the 'A' terminal. The difference is that the test won't tell you which is bad, alt or reg.

The 'E' terminal is a ground, as stated earlier. Since the in car test is conducted with a voltmeter with the positive probe on the 'BAT' terminal and the negative probe on the 'E' terminal, I'd say that bottom black wire needs to be grounded.

Rick, you're killing me!

Those center caps look like the ones 'reddat' sells on eBay.

I was a couple of vehicles up from him.