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sblake01

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Everything posted by sblake01

  1. The late model has the 280 bumpers, grille, taillights etc. They were made late for 9/74-11/74 with VINs from RLS30 060001-200000 for the 2 seaters and GRLS30 015001-060000 for the 2+2. The early model has the 73 240 bumpers and was made 8/73-8/74 VINS RLS30 000001-060000, 2 seaters only. As I recently learned, the late models were sold as 74 or 74.5 though some got registered as 75. The reason that would be a problem is with flat top carbs it would be tough to pass smog in states that check 75s because the test would actually be based on the 75 280Z w/fuel injection and other 'upgraded' emissions equipment. The consesnus would probably be that the early model is more collectible since it is the more '240Zish' of the two.
  2. That could actually have nothing to do with the slave/master cyls. More likely you old clutch had a higher pressure plate spring rating.
  3. I'll be there with the old truck.
  4. We have it in our catalog at work and I get it for cost +10% which is a little better than Bill's deal.
  5. Month old stuff but the best thing to do if the heater core leaks is fix or replace. It's a pain of a job and I had actually bypassed mine but only until I found a core. The weather does get cold in the winter even in California and Arizona.
  6. I met ben at the 2005 JCCS at the Queen Mary grounds in Long Beach, California. I don't think he's posted anything here in over a year, however.
  7. They did up to about mid 82 when they changed over to the ECCS system which had more functions in the ECU. These scans show the differences:
  8. It's an early 74 probably built in Aug 73 depending on how many they made each month. Do you have a tag on your drivers side door jamb with the build date? Not sure if the 260Zs had those.
  9. He's also selling a "Eisenhower gift set, bicentennial 3 dollar set" for $9.99 + $3 shipping. Now the two coins that the date are visible on are 1977, and 1978, and the one that shows the back doesn't have the bicentennial layout.:stupid:
  10. Together, the cold start valve and the air regulator act like an automatic choke on a carbureated car. You'd have to plug off a few lines to eliminate them. I'd be curious to see a picture also since a 81 turbo motor is set up differently than a 83 n/a. The 83 would have the ECCS and wouldn't have a cold start valve because that function would be in the ECU which is more 'computer' like than the 81 ECU which wouldn't contain that function. So if you have an 81 engine in an 83 there's going to be some electrical issues because the cars used different EFI systems. Your ECU will be looking for signals from components that didn't exist on an 81 engine, turbo or not.
  11. Welcome. I was born in Portland, Oregon though I haven't lived there since 1955. Still have family there though. Yes, I'm old....but anyway, nice Z. I think Datsun called that color 'Avocado Green Poly Metalic' if that's the original code 113 green, but most people do refer to it as British racing green.
  12. David, your first picture is the air regulator and cold start valve in the circle. It wouldn't start up and run without the air flow meter circled in the second picture unless he's done some modifications that I'm unaware of.
  13. Did you bleed it when you filled it? I would also change the slave cylinder when you change the master and check the condition of the hose on the slave also.
  14. I've never tried that but I know that the upper hose is the one that connects to the fuel pump inlet and the lower one ultimately connects to the pressure regulator after passing through the lines that lead it there.
  15. Top is feed, bottom is return.
  16. What's the purpose of this thread? If you add someone to your buddy list or someone adds you to theirs, only you will see it. Other members won't see what you see on your computer.:classic:
  17. You already told us about it last Thursday. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28732
  18. His tire appears to be a thin whitewall with that side mounted on the inside. How original could that be?
  19. sblake01 replied to HotRod-Z's topic in Open Chit Chat
    The new seller is pretty much a deadbeat idiot if you look at his feedback comments. Don't really like to call anyone that but it speaks for itself coupled with the fraudlent sale of Doug's car, or at least the pictures of Doug's car.
  20. Kameari is a Japanese aftermarket brand, right? According to the google translator, the cover is resprayed but it's cracked and peeling.
  21. Here's a quote from another thread that pretty much sums it up:
  22. It wasn't that bad. It rolls and really isn't very heavy unlike the big boxy ones of ten years or so ago. My neighbor lives next door and we just rolled it out of his house across the driveway and sidewalk and into my house.
  23. I guess you could. I did mine myself.
  24. I've seen them. I believe they're Japanese aftermarket. Wonder what it will go for. Right now it's at 1100 JPY (a little over 10 bucks USD if my calculations are correct).
  25. A late 74 260 with a build date of 9/74-11/74 would have the same body as a 280Z with the same bumpers used on the 75-76 280Z. Door panels, door lock mechanisms, hinges, etc., as well as dashboards, consoles and other assorted interior parts also changed at that point. In the North American market, which I assume includes Canada, there were no 280Zs until the 1975 model so the "1974 280Z" you speak of didn't exist. Not in the U.S., Canada or anywhere else in the world. You can put the 73 engine in any year Z or ZX for that matter but with the 75 and up models you'd be converting a fuel injected car to carbureators. Do some reading on this site and you'll discover the differences between the different model years.
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