sblake01

My guess would be the Turbo because the others are more common. I see them (the regular one) all the time on my trips to the junkyard and people just seem to leave them there while most every time I see a turbo car, the valve cover is gone I actually have a Turbo valve cover on my 78 280Z though the car doesn't have a turbo. I also have an early 'Nissan 2400CC' valve cover among my parts. Those are getting harder to find. Haven't seen one of those for sale for a while. I ultimately plan to put that on my 810 though it's the incorrect valve cover for that car, it kind of works with the 2.4 liter L24E. I guess the rarest would be the JDM block letter NISSAN valve cover. Wish I could find one of those at a resonable price. I saw one at the junkyard years ago but didn't buy it because at that time I didn't realize that it was anything special.:stupid:

Is it possible that you have two driver seat bottoms?

I have stockpiled lots of EFI parts and have been trouble shooting these cars for a number of years now. I actually find them fairly simple. They are, however, much easier for me to diagnose in person than in print. In my estimation of cost I guess I sometimes forget the fact that not everyone has the parts and would have to go buy them. An 83 is outside my expertise since it has the later ECCS system which I have no experience with. In some ways it's similar but there are some major differences.

Another one of those 'there's a guy'/'seemed to run fine' type stories. Think about the inherent tuning problems in the sceneaio you mention.

If Rebello will do a 'bore and stroke job' as you say for $3500, I'd go that route. I doubt that that's and accurate amount since strokers cost much more than that to build. You must mean a rebuild job with an overbore. I personally wouldn't buy an engine on eBay. Others opinions might differ. The matching number thing is only a big deal as a selling point to some. Doesn't matter much to me because, even though both my Z and my 810 have matching numbers, I'd never get what I really want for them if I ever sold them. Who does?

For some reason your url didn't work. Try this: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

I'm glad that worked out for you. You'll definately need to drop that fuel pressure down to something more inline with carbs. IMO, however, you haven't solved a 'fuel issue' as the thread is entitled, you've just switched over to a different set of fuel issues. Seems to me that the stuff you mention, carbs and intake, fuel pump, fuel lines, a fuel cell, etc would cost more than correcting the EFI problems. Especially if you're contemplating things like putiing a V8 in it and making a 'drag car' out of it. My approach would have been much different but it's your car.

I believe that 82 used the regular EFI system until mid year and from then on through the 83 year, the ECCS was used. That's why I haven't offered any suggestions in this thread since I've don't have any experience with the ECCS.

Try here: http://tinyurl.com/2kx28d

I'd just put them on the car if I were you. That process also shortens tire life and might even sacrifice safety.

What is a 'fuel injector module'? Do you mean a relay, an ECU? No such thing by the name you used exists on a 76 280Z. I might even have what you're looking for if you know it's correct name.

Might be cheaper in the long run to find a car that actually has a frame to build as a bracket racer. Even after the floor pans are fixed you'd still have to reinforce the unibody structure of the ZX in some way to handle the stress of drag racing.

E88 would be the number of the head. Look on the block where it meets the head between cyl 5 and 6 for the engine number.

Yeah, DZR and FIMZ both have a way with words:)

Probably sold it outside of the auction. Happens all the time.

I paid $275 for mine but that was ten years ago. And I couldn't drive mine home. Great buy! Deals like that just don't exist anymore.

Mike, I used to work right down the street from your shop at the Ralph's at Telegraph and Carmenita. I retired in 2002 (5 years ago today!) and from what I understand, that Ralph's has closed down. Haven't been in that area in years but I've actually been in your shop a couple of times. Small world.

I'm sure you mean the covers that go over the screw on the upper part of the armrest. Don't know a specific name for them. They don't show in the microfiche so I've never found a part number for them. The ones on my car are good and the only spare I have is lacking the chrome. Never seen them for sale anywhere and I always look for them when I go to the junkyard but I've had no luck finding ones with good chrome.

What it sounds like is that you have a car that has been heavily screwed with by previous owner(s) and would be impossible to diagnose by asking questions on a car site. You'll get some good advice like ktm's post #5 but basically it's a guessing game. The best thing you can do is, like ktm said, get a FSM. Learn how the different systems work, study the charts and diagrams and compare your car to it and try to correct what is wrong. I doubt if you'll find some kind of magical answer here.

Why would you even post that here? It smacks of commercialism anyway considering the link in your signature but I don't see how that helps this thread. KDMatt is in the US, you're in the Philippines, and those cars you listed are in Australia.:stupid:

Speed Huts guage faces for a 240Z are 0-160 mph and, to me, have a less authentic appearance. Not that white guages look authentic anyway but at least the MSA version seems to approcah that look.

On my 5/78 build date they're black as are my spares which came from a 78 also.

Well, how'd it go?

So, then I guess a lot of us are wasting our time..

Actually, the thermotime switch has a coil that begins to heat up when it gets a signal from the starter but only when the coolant temperature is below 35 deg. C. and will only operate for a maximum of 8 seconds at which point the cold start valve will close. It really doesn't have anything to do with the mixture other than allowing the fuel to flow through the cold start valve during that duration.