sblake01

Can't really get a prospective of where that is under the dash but the two wires appear to be the ones that connect to the switch that controls the dealer installed AC that many of them had back then.

No problem, just making sure that we are both on the same page.

It's been a while since I had the manifold off either car (both N47s) but I think you're right. 5, 7, 1, and 11 only go through the exhaust as does 6 and the rest 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, and 10 hold both the intake and exhaust so they should be the longer ones. IIRC. Remember, for the most part the old thread was referring to 240Zs and I believe that the manifolds on a 280 are thicker which would require the longer studs at the common mounting points.

What switch? There is no 'switch' in a 78 and up AFM as evidenced by the fact that there are no wires on the plug, as you said, that would correspond to the contacts on the earlier cars. Maybe you'll understand it better with these charts. On a 78 the position of the flap in the AFM has no effect on the operation of the fuel pump. That may work on his car but it won't on yours or mine.

When I said "problem" I just meant that I can start the EFI car up and drive it away immediately and it will run 'normal' compared to a carbed car having to warm up before it runs 'normally'. But with the carbed cars I've owned, 240Zs, roadsters, 510s, etc. it was something I could live with.

I don't think any of those things will drastically help the cold weather starting. All of those things you mention, except the L28 swap will make it somewhat better but still, it's the 'natrure of the beast' with carbs to be somewhat cold blooded. Even if you put an L28 in it, unless you use the EFI that goes with it, which would solve the cold weather starting problems but is a real pain to swap into a 240z, you'd still have those carbs in the Pennsylvania winter.

I've done a lot of research on this over the years. He has a 75 and you have a 78 as do I. The 78 S30 does not have fuel pump contacts in the AFM. It's the only year S30 that doesn't. It's setup like the later 79 and up S130, 810 and Maxima units (Pre ECCS). That's why the FSM cautions against using the 78 and later ECU or AFM in the 77 and earlier 280Zs. Unplugging the AFM on a 78 doesn't 'open the fuel pump circuit'. Compare these two scans. The only reason your car runs like 'arse' when you unplug the AFM is simply because you've unplugged the AFM. It really doesn't accomplish or help diagnose anything.

I'd be curious as to how his mechanic came to that conclusion. He says he has 'compression and spark' but no mention of fuel. There are so many things that will create that scenario but I've seldom seen an AFM cause that problem.

I know. I was just answering with the spirit in which he answered me.

That's not the Road Runner, or Woody Woodpecker, that's the 'Thrush Bird'. Or at least that's what I've always heard people refer to him as. Though he also at times gets mistaken with the old Clay Smith Racing Cams logo, Mr. Horsepower, he is his own bird.

11/22 11/26 Sorry, I don't see how I could have made such an egregious error.:eek:

Sound like a bad BCDD (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device) to me. Look it up. The only other thing I've seen cause this is the altitude switch on the California cars which his probably isn't. You might want to check out the similar threads list at the bottom of this page.

Oh great, then all you have to do is remember to hit that button when you step on the brakes. Fix it right or it's really not much better that not fixing it at all.

Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty:) The top nut is 30mm and the bottom one is 15/16". Make sure you hold the hex (also 15/16) on the fitting that the top nut is screwed onto as you're removing the top nut or you run the risk of breaking that too and that's a bigger problem.

DeMoore, I've sent you a PM.

It should just plug into the two wires I described in post #32. You'd have to look at a schematic to see path they take in order to rewire it yourself. The fact that they work but eventually blow the fuse indicates a short somewhere along the way. Might be easier to trace the short than rewire it. Check the sockets that house the brake lights and the connection there as well. Check the wires where they plug into the switch. Do they have the plastic covers on them where the terminals plug in?

Raining up here in S.B. right now (11:15am) but if it looks better tomorrow, I'll make it.

I'm not sure which way he's trying to go but Z engines won't go in 810/910(Max) chassis or vice versa without modification to the block and the corresponding oil pan.

I can't comment on that! If I did, I'd be taking this thead even farther down the porcelain!

Well, if it rains I'll have to cancel. The thought of hurtling down the freeway in wet weather in my 320 (4 wheel drum brakes) will most likely keep me at home.

That plus the fact that you can go to AAA offices for vehicle-related DMV transactions. That makes it worth the cost for me because it keeps me away from the chaos of the DMV office.

The direction this thread is headed:

I also live in SoCal, like Antonio, but in northern San Bernardino. I don't see them as often as he does in Covina which is roughly 40 miles west and slightly south from here. But I do see them, at least 4 or 5 240Zs per week in my travels as well as about the same number of 280Zs. The 260Zs are harder to distinguish from a distance but I've seen them on the roads here also. I don't really focus on the S130s, Z31, 32, but those 350Zs seem to be everywhere.

I don't have their roadside assistance, only the insurace. I use my AAA+ card for towing etc.

I answered the question about the L24E in your other thread. I won't fit a Z without changing the oil pan to a Z oil pan and having the machine work done on the block to allow the use of the Z pickup tube. And you'd have to do something about the location of the dipstick also.