sblake01

Emphasis on the BS?

Dennis Currington bought this to our attention last month: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28838

Okay, I'll recant my statement about the 8/78 date, which I found by searching the internet, because I've seen 79 and 80 vehicles without a passenger side mirror so obviously, that's wrong. But I'll stand on the fact that no 280Z ever came from the factory with a passenger side mirror. The only mirror option I see in the 78 model line up brochure is dealer installed 'dual racing mirrors'. The standard is a 'Sebring-type racing mirror' drivers side only according to the same USA model line up brochure.

That's basically a head swap that you're speaking of. Okay maybe a little more complicated than my simplification of it but his question was:

Welcome. The engine you have is a NAPS-Z. Most likely a Z20E. Four cylinder with 8 spark plugs. Though referred to as a 'Z engine' that is not a 'Z engine' in the sense that it's not the engine used in the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, and 280ZX. Hence the car has no real connection with the 'Classic Z'. You'll find some help on these cars on http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/index.php?sid=530da0f92dea1eb253783750730f3516 and http://www.nissanforums.com/classic-datsun/ I also belong to both of those forums and others because I own non Zs as well so this is not an attempt to send you away. Just pointing you in a more appropriate direction for your car.

When I say 8/78 I mean build date. Registration date means nothing in this case. The point is that your passenger mirror is not factory installed. No such thing on a 78 or earlier in the US.

What is it that we should be worried about? That there's any chance that we would run into something like this with the Datsun logo? Considering the lack of concern that Nissan shows for anything 'Datsun', I don't think there's anything to worry about. And I don't even get this....sounds like one of fullhouse's posts: ?????????????????????????????????????????????

Megasquirt is a whole different ballgame from the factory Datsun system. More modern and more 'user friendly'. Hell, you can tune it with your laptop. I would also disagree about Delorto's. I've also had some experience with them and they may be harder to tune than Mikunis. And definately harder to find parts or info for. Webers would be the way to go for tirpples but his choice is EFI vs. SUs in which case SUs would be the clear winner considering cost, his skill level, etc.

Come on guys. This is obviously some youngster's pipe dream. The first post in this thread is the last time he posted on this site to date. Not one answer from him on any of the suggestions/opinions etc. Maybe he took the advice and went to HybridZ.

No problem, Al. I have years of experience with the Datsun EFI system, and I'm not sure that I would really want to take on the carb to EFI swap myself.

Look at these two control panel attachments. Besides the difference in fan speeds note that on the 'AIR' lever that the first position on the non factory air is 'OFF' and the first position on the factory air is 'A/C'. The non factory system will also have a seperate compressor control knob that's not on the control panel.

My advice in post #2 was based on a non factory air system. With factory air the problem could be a simple as vaccum hoses and shouldn't require removal of the heater controls.

They were either dealer installed or aftermarket. 78s came from the factory with one mirror in the US. I believe that 8/78, the beginning of the 79 model year was the date that passenger side mirrors became manditory in the US.

From what I reacall, Mohammed sold the silver Z in his avitar. He was looking for another one a few months ago.

SUs will feed a 2.8 just fine. It's done all the time. A factory EFI retrofit is not for the unskilled or the faint of heart.

If you're a 'TOTAL rookie' as you said' date=' the thing to avoid would be the [b']EFI conversion. You would need to change all the fuel lines to lines that would withstand EFI type fuel pressure, an efi fuel pump and damper, return lines, EFI fuel filter, ECU, the harness, the relay boxes, both under the hood and the passenger side kick panel, the other relay that goes above the ECU, the droping resistors,......the list goes on and on. I would suggest putting the L28 in with the SUs and forget the fuel injection.

Not really what I'd call a standard problem but it does happen occaisionally. The top (AIR) lever of the control assembly is connected to a plastic cam type assembly that opens the defroster vents. If that plastic part breaks, you'll lose that part of the operation. Mine broke while it was on the defrost setting. It's easier to replace the entire assembly than to attempt to change that plastic part. I don't know where you'd find one. I bought mine from the junkyard. Beware that there are two types of heater control assemblies. One for cars with factory air and one for cars without. There are a few wires and cables that will have to be disconnected before the heater control will come out. Note where they all go if you decide to remove the unit.

This thread might help. Note the 75-77 stuff as the 78 stuff doesn't apply to your car. Also open the link in post #6 in that thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28935&highlight=fuel+pump

I wasn't doubting their existence, quite the contrary. My point was, no one in this thread so far is from Japan so models not sold here aren't of much consequence.

For the purpose of this thread (whatever that is) 90-96 would be more accurate.

Here's another that's more recent from a pervious owner. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28802&highlight=S30-00051

Same here. I called about a year ago about a windshield for my 810. I believe his name is Roger. Took a while to get back to me.

I've been sitting back and watching on this one since I've never had it happen on any Datsun L series engine I've ever dealt with. I'm pretty sure the gear has to be in there because you said the car "ran rough for a short time then she died" and it wouldn't run at all w/o the gear. 20 degrees is a substantial amount for the timing to be off if you're talking cam to crank timing rather than ignition timing. I'd start by correcting that and then making certain that the distributor is properly mounted. On the other comment; even if the cam wasn't turning when you crank the engine, the distributor should still turn since it's driven by the crankshaft. Keep us posted.