sblake01

I am afraid of the higher pressures that R134a requires to run efficiently in the older systems. My recommendation would be Johnsen's Freeze 12. That's what I use in the R12 systems I have and I've had no problems. Have your buddy check it out. You can read about it here: http://www.freeze12.com/. The best place I've found price wise for 30 lbs. is here: http://store.lenzdist.com/product.php?xProd=722&xSec=1 or in 12oz. cans: http://store.lenzdist.com/product.php?xProd=1045&xSec=4

There is nothing wrong with the mirror on the visor in my 78 280Z or in my 79 810. That's the first time I've ever heard of those being a common problem.

WingZro is basically talking about running some type of semi-race setup in a street car. Sounds good on paper but it really doesn't work. Especially in California where you have to smog check every other year. Been there, done that. Be careful puting the wrong combination of high performance stuff in a car you're basically using as a daily driver. Even if you get it right, and that's always subject to interpretation, it makes the car somewhat difficult to drive, kills the fuel mileage, etc. Other components in the car also have to be changed to withstand/enhance this extra performance. I got tired of tweaking and breaking stuff. No more high performance builds for me unless it's a race car.

I was afraid someone would ask that. That's the part I've never been able to come up with an answer for.

I said only the 77 and 78 came from the factory with hood vents. Meaning that the statement "I figured he knew his stuff cause he thought my '77 was a '76 from the hood vents" doesn't give me the impression that he "knew his stuff". True that the late hood fits the earlier cars and many people have done that. To run a big cam with early EFI you'll need the things you mention plus a larger throttle body but you'll still lack any kind of tunability with that stock ECU. You'd really need to go to some kind of stand alone like Megasquirt to make it work. Tripple Webers might be the way to go for that type of performance but you'll also need head work, more compression etc. Either way it will cost money. You can't just slap that cam in and call it all good. Where you want the power, top end or low end, depends on what you want the car to be able to do.

??????Only 77 and 78 came from the factory with hood vents. You'd have to do a lot of other work to your car to get anything out of either of those. Stock EFI doesn't work at all well with high performance cams.

My car which is a 78 also has it. Your explanation makes sense. These may have been retrofitted to the cars and that would explain why they don't show up in the microfiche or FSM. This post was originally about the S30 and somehow became inclusive of the S130. The fact that it shows up in the FSM for an S130 would indicate that it had become a factory part by then. I recall back in the 70s when the Ford Pinto had a problem with fuel tank explostions in a rear end collision and Ford recalled those cars to install a shield between the rear axle and the fuel tank to prevent that problem. Nissan may have done something similar and the fact that some cars don't have them now could be that a previous owner had removed it. I would also assume that it wasn't used until the 280Z and possibly not until 77 because of the design of the tank.

So does mine....all lines. Replaced the rear window in 2000, no problems since. And I still contend that OEM is the only way to go.

Well, I don't think you'll like my answer but I'd say find something else to race. I don't think there's an actual class for 240Zs with 280z engines, turbo or not, and it would take a considerable amount of money to make a competitive race car out of either of the ones you mention.

Careful, Tomohawk might again attempt to explain what 'word' means. :nervous:

Those readings are fairly even and pretty normal for a car with 100000+ miles. You should worry when one cylinder is way off like 80 or something like that.

In the 78 brochure they list the coupe and the 2+2 as having the same mileage. 49 states-manual trans. 18 city/27 highway, auto trans 17 city/23 highway. California-manual trans 18 city/25 highway, auto trans 18 city/22 highway. My coupe which is a 78 California car has never dipped below 20 and has been as high as 27.5 highway. Possibly due to the 83 5 speed.

Oh, I know he doesn't have a clue. This is a guy from the Phillipines who doesn't own a Z, lists cars that are located in Australia with a link in his siganature to said cars, tells weak jokes, doesn't understand the better jokes, can't decide how old he is (24 or 27), tries to flirt with the girls on the site on at least two occasions though he obviously doesn't understand how that works, claims to have received a Lambo for Christmas, etc., etc., etc. Never adds anything of value to the site. I frankly don't know why he posts here but that's not up to me. Now, is that a little less gentlemanly?

This is the location of the 77-78 stock vents. These measurements should get you close if the after market vents are the same size and shape.

5 years without running and EFI would require a complete cleaning of the fuel system including the gas tank, checking and/or replacing the various EFI components, as well as the electrical connectors, both EFI and otherwise. And then, of course, all the normal things you'd check on a car that has been sitting like brakes, belts, hoses, cooling system, etc.

Another fine example of why there would be a necessity for a thread with the title "Where are the girls??".

I just don't get the apparent fixation that many people seem to have with removing weight from these cars. Unless you're building a race car what difference does it really make? Appearance wise, Exdamyankee, that car looks great but I'll bet you did that more for that reason than weight reduction.

Hang on to those factory alloy (please don't call them Black Pearl) rims. They're getting harder to find.

You should email those pics to mperdue. He's seeking pictures of that color for the paint code gallery. EDIT: I guess I should have gone back and re-read the last line in his post.

Nothing wrong with it. I was listing a few penetrating lubricants and inadvertantly added it to my list. The main point was not to use a penetrating lube to do the job of an electronic contact cleaner.

One other thought on this since its certainly not the first time I've seen it here. In fact, in the area of cleaning contacts on fuel injection or any other electrical connection, this is just bad information. It's certainly not the first time on this or other sites that this has been suggested. Not just WD-40 but Kroil, Deoxit, LPS or anything labled as a penetrating lube, lubricant penetrant, or anything of that nature, is not designed to clean electrical connections. Read the cautions and warnings on the label.

I can tell you that WD-40 isn't as good as think when it comes to electrical connections. First of all, it's flamable, both the propellant used and the product itself. That in itself would prevent me from using it on any electrical item be it car, home, etc. If the connection gets hot for whatever reason, current flow, proximity to hot items, etc., the residue can catch fire. Use electronic contact cleaner.

The one I and Ian mentioned does. It's the earliest one used on the 240Z in the US. Look at 26thZ's avitar. IIRC it's a picture of one.

That's what I meant. It's in a box under the workbench and I haven't looked at it for about a year.

Never had that happen on my Z but it did happen on my 810. The screw on the front track of the drivers side window had loosened up to the point where it finally fell out causing the track to move enough to wedge the window when I rolled it down. Pulled the door apart fixed it and used loctite on all the screws and nuts that hold the mechanism in place. Don't want to have to do that again. It wasn't snowing but it was a cold miserable night and I needed it fixed so I could go to work the next day.