sblake01

http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=datsun-parts&Dirn=Received+by&ref=home http://contact.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ReturnUserIdHistory&requested=datsun-parts

I couldn't watch either of those all the way through either.:disappoin

That's an AB (Anti-backfire) valve IIRC. Some people called them 'gulp' valves. Its a smog thing.

They have the words wrong, both in Spanish and English.

Wingfoot is also the Goodyear logo (the shoe with a wing between the words Good and Year).

When you say 'sensor' do you mean pick-up coil? All you need to adjust the gap there is a non magnetic feeler guage

Looks pretty stock to me.

No points but the statement still applies. Did you check the ball bearings? They don't necessisarily become square but they do develop flat spots. I use a vacuum gun to check mine. That way, not only can I check the movement but also if it holds vacuum.

Me? I haven't attended any of the Z conventions as yet. Just Datsun meets, the Japanese Classic Car Show, etc. My interest is Datsun in general; not specifically the Z. Maybe when there's a Z Convention that's somewhat local to me, I could do that.

Sorry if I disagree. This is not a traffic stop, the DMV, or a supermarket. It's a thread entitled 'Funnybone' on a car site. The reactions fall under the heading of 'Much ado about nothing'. I'm not one of the ones that argued. I got it. Let's move on.

Actually, now that I think of it, you could leave the cold start valve connected and pull the connector from the thermotime switch. It would serve the same purpose. Your csv wouldn't get a signal and your ts wouldn't have the heating coil activated everytime you crank the car below 72 degrees.

I think you missed my point. If your thermotime swicth is still connected, you're still getting a signal to it everytime you crank the car below 72 degrees. You should disconnect it also since that signal goes nowhere with the cold start valve disconnected.

I've never could watch any of those all the way through. I like music and I'm not a fan of drifting so there's nothing in any of them for me. However, I've never viewed the one that John linked for Bill in post #3.

You do realize that witout the cold start valve connected, your thermotime switch sends an electronic signal to nowhere. If you're going that route, I'd disconnect it too. No need to run current through it. It's been my experience with thermotime switches that the heater (electrical side) fails more often than the water termperature side.

And when I got mine, brand new SRL311s weren't yet being sold.....

I'd suggest testing the items first. If they test good there's no need to replace them.

Those connectors are important and are likely the source of at least some of your problems. Did you use some type of electrical contact cleaner like DeOxit or CRC QD? Those will remove the build up but won't do anything about the looseness. We've done threads on replacing them with better than stock connectors from BMWs, Volvos, etc. Here's one. Note the pictures in post #21 and #30: http://tinyurl.com/2u8ocn

Looking at the last five digits of the three part numbers, R46xx indicates that those were originally used on a KGC110, E42xx on a PS30, and E72xx on a PS30S. Those number indicate the original application but these parts were used on subsequent models as the 40224-R4670 lug nuts are the same part number used on the aluminum wheels on my US market 810 but they are identical to the ones on my 78 280Z which are 40224-N3200 but supercede to 40224-R4670.

That's pretty much what I said..........

You will note by my statement which was that you and I are on the same page. I just think it's important to use the correct terminology especially when responding to someone who, at least by the content of his post is not as experienced with the system and it's troubleshooting as you or I or many others on this site. I won't say anything else along those lines here since it seems to bother you so much.

One of the main problems with these systems is the lack of understanding of them. And it gets spread around enough to where people end up throwing parts at a problem until it's fixed. I prefer not to take that route. jonathanrussell, you can respond to what I say with a surly attitude; that's your call. My cars run. I don't come here for advice as I've worked on these cars for over 30 years. I'm not trying to prove anything. I would just like to see correct information. You do it your way, I'll do it mine. I would also like to see him get his problem corrected without seeing terms like 'brain' or 'tricking' the system. Call what I said 'techicalities' if you wish but that's how the system works.

I believe that the general consesnus of the thread was that the kit is NLA. A database of BPE serial numbers would be of no real use since the number wouldn't tell anything except that it's a 78 280z.

The temp sensor is a thermister which decreases in resistance as the water temperature rises. The lower the resistance the richer the fuel mixture and vice versa. The thermotime switch is a bimetal contact that reacts to water temperature and a heater that reacts to electrical current that comes from the start signal. It sends a signal to the cold start valve while cranking when the water temp is below 72 deg. F but only for a maximum duration of 9 seconds due to the heater to prevent flooding. The cold start valve, which is basically an injector, can malfunction like a leaking fuel injector or dispense fuel because of a malfunctioning thermotime switch. The 'brain' as you call it doesn't do anything except patch signals through from one area of the system to another based on the signals it receives, or doesn't receive from the components of the system, generating a fuel injection pulse. It's not a brain, as such, compared to the modern fuel injection systems in that it makes no adjustments, calculations, etc. It's just three integrated circuits on a board in a box.

Valerie is here as are others. Some of them don't dwell on the fact that they are women. Maybe if there was less focus on the that and more on the reason they and the rest of us are here, there would be no need for this ludicrous discussion.

Sounds to me like you need to read the FSM a little more to understand the function of the components you mention. They don't 'tell' the system anything. They're much simpler than that as it the system. No need to 'trick' the system into doing anything. Even if you accomplished that, what have you really accomplished? A problem would still exist. Check each of the mentioned components as per the FSM. There is a test procedure for each one as well as the rest of the components in Section EF.