dutchzcarguy

Sorry but it's very contradicting what you say.. If the piston in the carb go's UP.. (when giving it throttle), then there MUST BE some vacuüm pulled through it? Right? You got 2 airflowmeters and have you switched them.. maybe one is broken? Does the engine/car pull very well? i assume that the engine is also very weak? Something is blocking the throat of one carb, the engine works on just 1 carb and the other half works via the balance tube? take the inlet apart and see what's going on there! I can't imagine that that engine runs very well and got over 120hp.. A video of it would be awesome.. a engine that runs on 1 rear carb and no air going through the front carb but the piston go's up anyway.. it's just impossible.. i guess... I would take the inlet apart, maybe take a look inside the cylinders with a camera.. take a look at the valves.. etc.etc.

The problem with aluminum, it brakes down.. the radiator in my 240z is at least 30 years old and it would not surprise me if it's his first rad. (so 52 years old.) from hotrodhotline: At this point the move to aluminum construction was purely financial in that raw materials are purchased “by the pound” and a finished aluminum radiator weighs about 25% of a copper/brass unit (dollars per pound being almost equal at that time) and resulted in huge savings to the O.E.’s . This is why we’ve seen most copper/brass manufacturers either switch to aluminum or fold up their tents permanently. It is important to note that this decision was based solely on financial savings and should not be confused with more efficient. Still the old is more efficient and alu is for cheapskates! 🙊😂

The Brassworks; handcrafted radiators made in the USA

I don't have any experience with Aluminium or aluminum radiators.. i only know that i will ALWAYS go for copper! Aluminum cracks much easier and copper cools way better than aluminium will EVER do! (It's a natural fact!) I don't care what people say about alu coolers.. they just don't belong in a Datsun.. period. 😮 Another option would be a firm that makes/repairs old radiators with a new core. I would look for a firm that does that, i would pay a lot more for that kind of quality! (We have one in the Netherlands, the specialism went from dad on son.. Don't know theire name but it's somewhere on youtube..)

Offcourse.. yeah..me lazy..didn't read it all.. tired guy these days... nice build! 👍

It all looks very nice! I wondered why i don't really recognize this part, yeah, it's the plate between the clutchhousing and engine but what is that "bulging" part in the lower part when installed? Never seen one like this one.. i know the 4-5 speed and auto are different but this one..? Is it a 280z plate?

It's good that i have seen "the big bang theory" ! Otherwise i would not have known what the h*** afk means! 🤣

Okay, i can see the membersmap and yes.. i too get the error when i click a specific member (on the top button), didn't test that yesterday.. 😬 But if i click the "find content" button when i go over all the names or type a specific name, it works!

I cán access the members map when i click "community" and go to members map! I get the menbersmap! You guys can't? huh? 😮

I hope to.. one day.. get me one for my 280zx. When the aftermarket one that's on it now is gone bad.. Nice bling you got there Mark, They are not cheap, but worth every penny i think! 👍 Are there people here that had any problems with these stainless exhausts, it's long ago that i heard they cracked or broke off. I think the material they use these days has been improved?

My painter told me those headlight housings are a pain in the a**e .. to paint right.. haha. As you have to paint upside down IN them.. (Oh well.. my painter .. he worked at his dads paintshop, and i think he still can't paint very well after many years.. 🙊 ( I did my own first paintjob in a paintboot on my own car ( the first anti rust layer) and only one drip and i immediately knew what i did wrong!) Your painter did the right thing! As there is a rubber seal between those parts and half a mill distance or so.. if you keep them together you get a mess, separate painting is necessary..

Same here in euroland..

several are for sale on ebay.. i know that the usa had thinner bars then the euro version.. euro had few mm thicker bars.. Like the shocks they were a lot stiffer!

Don't be afraid of it.. just take a very little (we call them watch) screwdriver and do this in a clean well lighted work-room/place. Take the lock and (make pictures all the time..) and simply uncrimp the stainless.. if you think you can't do it .. try it first on one you don't use.. It's more simple than you think and practice makes perfect. Keep the parts in a row and work slowly and careful.. you CAN do it!

Early this year i bought a R180 in parts and shipped it in 2 boxes.. maybe an idea to do that too? outer casing separate from "the rest" also got new bearings with it.. just need to put it together again. 😉

just a "little" more intense... 😂 .... wow.. No, nothing wrong.. hihi..

John means 1: 3,37 not 3,73.. Most R180 are 1:3,364 for the 4 speed. over here we have 1:3.9 for the orig 5 speed 240z box.. for rally there was the 1:4,11 ratio.. my experience is when you install a orig 240z euro 5 speed you need to use the 1:3,9 ratio diff. I don't know if the 280zx 5 speed has much different gears but i guess that there is not much difference so a 1:3,36 diff can give you a bit of a "long" first gear that eats your clutch plate aftyer some time. Also a 1: 3,9 gives shorter gears and more torque. A 1:3,36 gives more top speed. So the answer is i think get yourself a 1: 3,9 diff.. i believe there is also a 1:3,6 and the 1:4,11. It would not surprise me if a 240sx or other nissan diff also would fit.

Check the voltage with a 12v bulb in place of the pump. then you know if the new pump is good. Put a voltmeter over the bulb's contacts and if the voltage is to low say 5v or so than you need to replace or clean your switch. use a 12v 23 to 60 watt or something like that.. for the bulb. (It's possible that a 55-60 watt bulb will draw so much current through your switch it "cleans" the contacts.. haha 🙂 )

I vote NO...😬 As it only ads weight to a car and i much more like the clean look of the bumpers even without those ugly "bumperettes" ... It does not belong on a "original" car as it was a typical usa dealer's addition.. But hey... it's your car, your decision! 🙂

That's what i meant.. I and E valves are on diff places so watch the orientation.. As Jeff said: half is I-E and the others are E-I. I guess Rebello already had numbered the pistons, so you only have to put them in the right spot. Btw. did you know that Traum in german means: dream? those are dream-pistons! 😃

I would take the car for a spin in the reverse gear (i guess that one works aswell) , maybe drive a bit in 3rd.. when it heats up the gears will/can come available again (first and second.) But do check first the gearbox oil for water, first open the filler and then the lower one to let some oil/water out.. if there is any water inthere.. replace the oil. then go for a small ride to let oil go round in the box.

Am i right.. you must have 2 different pistons? (the indents on top are different) ?

Just my opinion.. but i don't get it when people go for a electric fan to cool.. they use a lot of energy.. that's why there is a big mechanical fan on a engine.. no they say i first go make a lot of electric energy (Big generator/alternator and even fatter cables) with my mechanical engine, then i make with a big electric motor a lot of mechanical energy to cool.. that's energy lost twice!!!!! 🙈 The only time a electric fan is useful when the mechanical one can't keep up!! This was done in a 300zx twin turbo.. they have both "sorts" of fans.. then it makes sence.. As i said just my opinion! 😉

Something else i wanted to say about the 46's .. they are really lazy and easy to drive on the road for normal conditions. i see that lots of people have trouble with those big webers .. when i start my 240z it stays running ALWAYS!! It has very very few times died on me.. only times was because i didn't give it enough choke.. I see webers start with a lot of hesatating/stutter.. They are a p.i.t.a. on the road.. i would like them on a track.. not on the road.

I saw that i had wrote HJG45W that should be 46! i guess you did also a typo there you mean 46's? they are also good to use on a non standard engine i guess.. (Or did you write 47 to balance it out? 😂