dutchzcarguy

Strange emblem for a Nissan? What type of Nissan, it isn't a Laurel or so is it?

Maybe a brand from India? Go meet the guy and ask! 😉 Seen from a side of the car it looks a bit like a BMW.

Don't know what could be wrong but those little flashers on the front fenders can also give a lot of trouble as they rust away on the back and make bad contacts.. just check them by taking them out of the fenders, the rear rots away..

Nice picture of all the parts on the antenna! That grounding part (under the row of parts on the pic.) Is.. i think.. not necessary IF the radio makes a good ground, it does in our Datsuns. (It might even make a disturbance, as it creates a circle in the antenna ground..) Grounding something should always be in a star form.. from one point to everywhere, not making (round going) circuits..

Thanks for the heads up about the clock on 1,5v.. on the other hand i hear they work already for 13 years.. anyway.. i can install it in my car as it's also not in a hot spot overhere.. Thanks for the explanations, i also have the older square datsun clocks, and they have a very good working clockwork that fits in the 240z clocks 🙂 These square little clocks came in the cherry and sunny models.. It seems they run forever..

Eh.. I would? As i have invested few 1000 hours into mine.. i'm not selling under 35 grand euro's that is.. (You get a near new 280zx for that..) The biggest problem is there are (in my country) few people that remember how good a 280zx was as it was a very expensive car overhere.. Yes they were rusty but also very relyable. If you did the whole anti rust treatment you can have a good car for a very long time!

Accurate also when you feed it different voltages between 12 and 14,5 volt.. test it.. (It should not matter, a week 12v and a week 14,5v..) I got a restored one with a 1,5 volt battery holder for in the glovebox/compartment and.. still not installed hahaha... I got it out of a whole sale of datsun parts so i don't know who sold/made these.. It looks exactly like the 240z clock but works on 1,5 volt.. and it ticks on time (It does tick).

Yeah, IN THE BIN! But Maybe one day they will suddenly be in high demand.. until that day...

Yes, there is a official service anouncement made in 1973 that the 1973 240z engine L24 had a different head as the pistons go ABOVE the deck! Watch out for this, it's just a small part of a mm but they go above the deck!

What i remember from a 260z driver in the neighborhood.. the flattop needed a lot of tuning.. After a few weeks the idle was AGAIN to high.. they were sick and tired of them.. I never took a set (on my attic!) apart.. i bought them years ago cheap just to see what kind of trouble makers they are.. My view so far.. they are made to complicated.

Like the OsGiken.. the costs will ad up to 20 grand.. is my estimate..

You have to put the lugnuts all on before you tighten them.. Also i discovered there are different diameter shafts on these lugnuts. I don't think your bolts are bend. These lugnuts with the shaft are a pain to install.. but it's do-able if you wiggle the wheel. but first take a calliper and measure the diameters from the holes in your wheel and the shaft of the lugnuts. That there are also lugnuts with longer/ to long shafts is new to me! (So i leant something today.. Yay!! 😉 ) If the lugnuts shaft is to small, that can absolutely give some clunking noises! Good luck! Mart.

Even when it would be available under 10 grand (Dollar or Euro) it's a big investment.. On the other hand it's a big change in power.. i guess? (From 150hp SAE to 300hp DIN?) (Most people forget that our 240z's engines power is measured in SAE NOT DIN. (150 SAE is about 135 DIN Horsepower?? I estimate..)

Hahaha.. On MY desktop computer i get 2 plus 1 under those 2.. (on 100% ) But when i set the enlargement to 90% then i get them (3) on a row! 100% gives 2 with 1 under the first pic. At 150% i get them in a vertical row.

btw i drove 20-22000 km with the one set of contacts..

Don't they protect the ign.points so they don't ware out faster? My 240z has the one on the ignition standard and i used the last 24 years one for 20+ years and it was still good but i installed one new after 20 years.. Cap. is still the same.. I think the points spark less with the capacitor on?

No need, i'm driving my 240z for 24 years now and no rubber cover.. maybe you could spray some lube in them every 5 years.. that's all it needs!

A picture of the rounded out hole in this little axle would be nice, also.. often you can see the problem on a picture better than with the (older) naked eye! (I don;t know your age but when i need to look at such a problem i shift my contactlens in one eye and i can see everything very clear on about 4 inches distance Hahaha!! Never lasered my eyes as this is a great solution to looking at very tiny things!) 👍

I guess that the cable does not take on the rotation of the nylon pinion, so the hole in the pinion axle must be rounded out.. get another pinion with 16 tooth gear. (Yellow/greenish color i believe..? as every different number of teeth gear have different colors?) Yup.. see this.. (WOW!! 75 bucks CRAZY!! happy i got one new in my partsdepartment! pfff...)

The single one on my 240z is now 53 years old and isn't it unbelievable.. is still working correct! Yup.. old is better! 🙂

Maybe the insert is lead? To make the piston heavier? Now it will come up slower and drop faster? just a thought..

Pretty good money? Far to much for a fake Ferrari.. It's a chassis of something, (In this case a 280z) and a "dress" stolen/copied in fibreglass of a bloody Ferrari! 30 grand AT THE MOST !! (It's one big pile of FAKE!! and btw, i would appreciate a original 280z in good condition more!)

For as far i know.. we (Dutchies) call it pertinax Pertinax, also called FR-2 or hard paper, is an electrical insulating material consisting of layers of paper impregnated with a phenol - formaldehyde - synthetic resin. Pertinax is electrically insulating and has a high breakdown voltage. The thermoset was developed during the First World War.

Yeah, think that's better, best would be on the outer side of the flywheel.. but i read that's not very often done..

I'm no expert yet.. on that.. but isn't there the option to make it without a distributor, and use 6 induction coils and some sensors for timing? As those old distributors have theire problems after 40-50 years i would go for the "modern" approach!