Mark Maras

Remove the dome and piston. The fuel level should be 3/8" down below the carb bridge. Turn the jet adjustment nut down 9.5-10 turns from the top position. The fuel level in the bowl should be at or near the top of the nozzle at 9.5 turns down. when you're satisfied with the float level return the nozzles to the appropriate height. Usually 2 1/2 - 3 turns down.

A boy on the front porch playing a banjo should be your first warning but barring that, Nothing ventured, Nothing gained. If you don't ask, you'll always wonder. Many of these old Zs are still sitting around because the owner loved Zs just like us. That's the common ground for a good conversation.

Personally, I hope you stay and continue to post.

The problem with the real news is the "Official Story" the Gov. doles out to our trusted news sources. Most of it is probably true, as far as it goes, but it's what they're not sharing with us that is the real news. The "Powers That Be" (pick your favorites) do control the news, real and fake and as history has shown, the real and fake news often came from the same sources. A lie by omission, is still a lie. Power tends to corrupt and absolute power corrupts absolutely. Lord Acton

I'd go with the welding reps advice.

Gorgeous nether region porn.

Go for it Cliff. Kathy got Moderna and had very mild symptoms. I got J&J a couple of weeks ago and my symptoms were very similar to a two day hangover.

Older people do it because they grew up with carbs that had accelerator pumps and automatic chokes that didn't work very well when they got old.

A big pipe wrench and a floor jack on the end of the pipe wrench is what I used after trying to be gentle with the fill plug. It chewed up the plug a bit but it came out.

It was a fun day in , almost a Deja Vu moment meeting Cliff face to face. Instant good vibes. Thanks again for the ride from the airport. IMHO, Nissan was pretty brave or foolish for placing that beautiful original Z next to the new Z. Is there anyone one the face of the earth that thinks the new Z looks anywhere as good as the original?

Too bad they didn't solve it by installing a cross-flow head. SUs on one side, exhaust on the other.

I'd guess it's a used replacement.

I'm impressed but I'll stick with a chainsaw for something that tough.

I'd start by disconnecting the two linkage rods with the plastic ball ends and operate the three linkage assemblies from the gas pedal up to the carbs independently. Hopefully you'll be able to isolate the problem. As an alternative, if you haven't lubed all the pivot points yet, you could start at the pedal and start oiling all the pivot points one at a time until you find one that may be binding.

Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.

They can be a multi-tasker. I've used mine to pull stubborn shrubs and laurel hedge and lift a riding mower to clean-out the deck. Now I'm considering mods to convert it into a firewood splitter.

I have a H.F. engine hoist that folds up and doesn't take up much space. Years ago I pulled and reinstalled my 240 engine using two 2x4x8s, garage rafters, a one ton cable jack, jack stands and the Z jack. I unbolted everything under the car, lowered it, hooked up the cable jack to the engine, finished unbolting the topside, lifted the engine a bit and rolled the car back as I lifted the engine. It sounds like a PITA but it all went well.

Does the linkage operate smooth without the springs?

There should be a very small gap (just enough air for idle) between the butterfly and the carb housing if the linkage is correct and the choke linkage isn't opening the butterfly a bit for cold start. The only way the pistons will lift is by the engine drawing air past the butterflies.

Are the pistons up or down when it's running? If they're up it would indicate the butterflies are open. If they stay down it would indicate an intake leak.

I can't imagine an intake leak large enough to idle an engine at 4,000 rpms. When you say the throttle is all the way closed, are you referring to the throttle pedal or the carb butterflies? I think your butterflies are partially open which would indicate something is wrong in the linkage. Mine did the same thing one time when I forgot to hook up the heat shield springs.

I don't lift the carb pistons. I remove all the spark plugs, adjust the valves, turn the engine over with the starter until the gauge shows oil pressure, install the c gauge, open the throttle all the way and turn the engine over until the c gauge needle won't go higher. I always start with #1 and the #2-#6, then I repeat #1. Frequently the reading on #1 will improve slightly because of increased oil circulation after repeated engine revolutions.

At 4+ turns down you got backfire out of the exhaust during acceleration, then you leaned out the mixture and got backfire from the carbs. How many turns did you lean it out?

I don't know who that would have been. @zedhead used to live in Portland, maybe he knows.

I've removed the studs with a piece of hardwood and a big hammer. Reinstall the lugnuts and pound on those, not the studs.