Carl Beck

Hi Mimregi: Just looking at the pictures of your car, the paint job and detailing look pretty through and fairly well done. So if there is undercoating under the floorboards, it may be there to cover some repairs... but it is most likely they were done with the same care and attention to detail as the rest of the body work. I forgot to mention - you said the doors were leaking... but that the door seals seemed to be OK.. Look on the top of the door frame, in the front where it closes under the dogleg of the front fender.. (outer-door skin, door frame, inner-door skin). On the top of that door frame there is supposed to be a rubber seal, about six to eight inches long.. held on with about three or four plastic rivets. A lot of times they are removed when repainting the car... then not replaced. If they aren't replaced, water will run inside the car when you wash it or in heavy rain. From memory.. the Vintage Air Super Cooler II was about $495.00. The Super Cooler has both the A./C evap. and heater core in one box and includes a new blower ...The new blower moves about three times the air that the old Dealer Installed A/C systems did. They now have complete electronic controls... so no vacuum tubes to deal with either). The stock ducting pretty much just reattaches to the new SuperCooler unit. Then you need a compressor and a new condenser.. plus the hoses, dryers... I used a rebuilt 280ZX compressor and compressor mount for the L6... plus a new condenser designed specifically for 134a. Likewise you'll need hoses and fittings designed for 134a... (O-ring'ed fittings, shielded hoses etc). The 280Zx compressor is a Hatachi unit, very expensive even as a rebuilt unit. I used it because I could easily find the proper mount and it lined up with the crankshaft pullies... I wouldn't recommend it. If I had to do it again, I'd go with a new Sanden or Sanyo.. and get the proper mounts. Less money and better compressors actually. If you want to see the installation and talk Z's ...drop me an e-mail and run on over to Clearwater. (but keep your eyes open for alligators crossing I-4! ) kind regards, Carl B.

Hi Minregi: Welcome to Florida.. Good to hear you had a good road trip coming down, but sorry to say that moving to Florida in July is about the worst time to make the move from the North!! If you stick it out for a couple years, you'll adjust to the heat and humidity... but that first few months aren't too much fun.. especially in the middle of the State!! Welcome also - back to the wonderful world of Datsun Z ownership. I'm in Clearwater now, born and raised in Ohio... lived in Texas, California and moved here from Washington State. That was anything BUT a great road trip!! But the warm winters and the beach here in Clearwater made up for it!! I've been driving 240-Z's since 1970. Without question in my mind the 240-Z is the best Sports/GT I've ever owned.. without regard to price. For that matter it's most likely the best car I've ever owned. That's a good looking 240-Z you have there and I'd guess someone put a ton of money into it, before they let it go. It looks like it's sitting somewhat low... do you know if it has lowered springs, and/or what type of suspension it has? (just wondering if you need to do some suspension work or not?) Just my personal opinion - offered as something to think about: 1. I'd pull the Webers off.. and replace them with the 70-72 SU's. Why?: a)that would eliminate one needless variable while tuning and trouble shooting engine operation... running the stock SU's you are in a configuration that is supported by a broad and vast knowledge base, running the Webers you will find three or five people that can tell you what they have encountered.... the only reasons I've seen people install the Weber conversion is because they found it cheaper than replacing/rebuilding the SU's - or they somehow bought the hype that they could improve performance. A rebuilt set of SU's is about $650.00 as I recall, plus you'd have some linkage to replace, maybe a few gaskets etc... Second alternative, because you mentioned it.. go with Fuel Injection. (it would be a good learning curve to go though.. as well). 2. Install the Vintage Air system... it's the only system I've found that will actually cool a 240-Z, in Florida to any degree of satisfaction. Vintage Air produces A/C systems for Classic, Custom and Special Interest Cars.. It isn't "stock" but it works and is easy to install. See: VintageAir.Com Most of all.. have fun with your wife and the car. kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Kats (everyone): Thanks for the lead... That car was reported as "Sold By" Universal City Nissan. If you happen to meet any of the owners of the Vintage Z's in Japan, please get them to send me the full information related to their VZ's.. for the IZCC's Vintage Z Register. I've up-dated the Vintage Z Register.. and associated Picture Page.. See: <a href=http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/VintageZ.htm TARGET=NEW>The Vintage Z Register</a> and <a href=http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/VintagePictures.htm TARGET=NEW>The Vintage Z Picture Gallery</a> Kind Regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi zman525 The 240Z doors can be bolted on the 280Z... they just won't seal against the body seals. The inner wall of the 280Z doors is different. If you put 240Z doors on the 280Z the sealing surfaces won't match up... and you'll have a large gap that you can see light though. For the fender horns.. that's what I call them anyway... That's the top of the inner fender, over which the front fenders bolt... These are actually as important, or more important to the structural strength of the unibody than the lower frame rails.. so you want to take good care of them. Get some Scotch Bright pads.. green and brown.. a gallon of Ospho and a pint or quart of POR-15. Remove any stray undercoating from them with mineral spirits.. then scrub them down to bare metal with the Scotch Bright pads, wetting the area down, and rinsing often with Ospho. With a little effort you should wind up with clean, bare metal.. Rinse the area down with water.. then blow it dry with dry compressed air.. Yes, you have to rinse the excess Ospho off with water.. don't worry, it will protect the bare metal from flash rust. When it's clean, shinny, and DRY bare metal.. paint the bare metal with POR-15. You can use a brush on that area, as it isn't seen, and the POR-15 will flow out like glass anyway. Follow the directions on the POR-15 can... to the letter!. Wear latex gloves.. if you get it on your hands and it drys.. the only thing that will take it off is time... lots of time.. Catch it when it's wet, and you can use lacquer thinner to remove it. A little goes a long way... so I'd buy a couple of pints rather than a quart. That way you can use one up before opening the next. If you have some left in a can, put wax paper across the top before you replace the lid.. and then make sure the lid is on tight. Any air at all and the stuff will turn to a rock in the can in no time. Forget the wax paper and you will have a very hard time getting the top off again.. POR-15 is intended to be applied directly to bare metal...it can be primed with a urethane primer when the POR-15 is slightly tacky.. but once it drys.. you can't get primer/paint to stick to it without sanding.. and it's very hard to sand!. Under the fenders there is no need to paint over it.. The manufacturer says that the best surface over which to apply it.. is slightly surface rusted metal.. as the rough surface offers better adherence... but I personally just don't like leaving iron oxide under any coating over steel.. Ospho is a brand name, that is common in Automotive Paint supply stores.. it's been around for decades. Ospho is actually a mild phosphoric acid solution. The acid will aid in stripping the old primer and surface rust off the part... then it will chemically convert iron oxide into iron phosphate.. in effect it stops rust dead in it's tracks.. and prevents flash rust from forming in the pores of the metal. Once you get used to using this process.. it should take you about two hours per front fender horn. If you work slow.. maybe three hours per side. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan (everyone): I've added some pictures to the same URL See: <a href=http://zhome.com/BRE/BREFrontSuspension.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/BRE/BREFrontSuspension.htm</a> Just scroll down the images. It would seem that the lower spring perch, on the front BRE adjustable coil overs, covers the range of 266mm to 305mm. About the same height as the rear Rally Option struts you show (given that front and rears can't be directly compared). However the total length of the strut tubes on the BRE car are about 55mm less in total length (420mm vs. 365mm). The springs - if I had to guess - look like they were from the Rally Option Struts.. as they are the same wire diameter... but they would appear to have been cut down.. from 267mm to 220mm. So the free lenght is about 2 inches shorter.. I'm not sure what that would have done to the installed height and thus the ground clearance/wheel clearance.. (I guess I'll have a better idea once I get the original size tires/wheels back on the car). Yes - both struts have the... tubes for the Halda Drives - if you say that's what they are - I've not seen them on anything else, can you tell us more about them?... I can find no indication from pictures taken in the car (at least so far) - that they were used for Baja nor the Mexican 1000. They certainly wouldn't have been needed for the road racing to the car was put to later.. thanks for the help... regards, Carl

Hi Alan (everyone) Please Stand By... while I try to get everything that used to work perfectly well (slow but well) on my old Mac to work again on this blindly fast new one. I may have to bring the old G3 back on-line... This may take a day.. or two... sorry for the delay.. regards, Carl

I have HLS30 16831 listed twice...Ron and Michael M. in Clearwater. Did you buy the car from Mike? What is the original engine number in your Z? thanks, Carl

Bob Brooking, IZCC#421 has HLS30 31305 FWIW, Carl B

John Csomay, IZCC #991, and ZCAR member..HLS30 8218 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Daddz: Dan Veldkamp, IZCC #5004.. has HLS30 08325.. with engine #L24-011813 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Alan (everyone) I've put a couple pictures of the labels that were on the struts at: <a href=http://zhome.com/BRE/BREFrontSuspension.htm TARGET=New>http://zhome.com/BRE/BREFrontSuspension.htm</a> Across the top of the label it "looks" like it say's ..............NISSAN .........S30 RAC FOR RALLY ........ something/##6???..5402 ..... ....... 73 5 10 The spring coils, number of turns and free length would seem to line up with the E4266, but that could be the case for the E7213 - may be the same basic part only with updated/later Part Numbers?? Any thoughts?... regards, Carl B.

I have a couple of serious buyers looking for a nice Z... Would also be interesting to see how this one actually looks in person. I guess I didn't realize it was done by Too Intense... now I more fully understand the warning... By all means go check it out for us.. and be sure to get underneath and look closely.. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Guys: With Will's warning taken seriously.. if you go check the car over... and if it is as rust free and straight as described.... At this point in time.. the "Buy-It-Now" price on the car represents a bargain in the 240-Z market. (your paying $3000.00 for the car plus $4,500.00 for all the paint and body work.. everything else already done on the car is FREE). A good straight, rust free, unrestored, unrefreshed 240-Z in presentable condition, with 90K to 120K miles, that runs out fine... has a base price of around $5,500.00. This would be a car that would be a good starting point for a full refresh.. or restoration.. No matching number engine, leaves it out of any future Collector Market... so deduct about $1,500.00... now it's a $4k car. OK... now take it apart, fresh paint to above average but not "SHOW" quality.. $4,500.00 Put it back together.. with all new: bumpers chrome scripts/emblems etc Weather strips/seals Carpet, Seats, door panels, interior plastic panels hoses, belts, water pump, fuel pump, battery, rebuilt SU's.. new radiator, new heater control valve and hoses... Do a fresh brake job Do a fresh clutch Do a rebuilt tranny.. find a good rear gear.. On and on it goes... by the time you duplicate this car... You'll easily have spent a year or more of your time.... and easily an additional $15K... You now have a car that is as good as this one is supposed to be for only $19K - and this one might be as good as presented... Oh... you want to really go full restoration... all period correct bits and pieces.. show quality paint... Add another $20K to $25K today. If this car checks out as described... rust free.. solid, above average paint... running fine.. he has it priced at least $2K under it's current market value.. If it had it's original engine.. it would be easily a $11K to $14K car... Buy this car as a driver for the enthusiast.. local shows where matching numbers don't matter as much.. maybe a future L28 turbo project.. take care of it and it will still be worth the money two, five or ten years from now... maybe a whole lot more.. If your serious about buying a very nice driver.. go check it out carefully in person.. and buy it now at $7,500.00... plan to spend an additional $4K on small items.. just to have a bit of fun with the car.. Any one that has spend any time looking for a good (not excellent, not perfect... just "good") 240-Z now knows how hard it is getting to be to find one. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: No. I do not know if there was more metal or not.. only that the structure was redesigned to meet and pass the impact test criteria. As I recall the impact test used a swing arm weight that struck the bumpers in the middle.. This impact had to be absorbed without disabling the car, and leaving the lighting in tact and working (both front and rear).. So it was quite possible that they simply moved some metal around.. where it would reinforce the structure.. or allow it to crumple without taking out the lights. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Alan: The part number data that was printed on the aluminum foil stickers affixed to the struts, was only partly visible... I have some pictures of them I'll try to get on-line, maybe you can fill in more of the missing/smeared lettering/numbers. They are Ampco.. that was still clear on them. No.. I am not certain that they are the struts used at Baja. Mr. Brock is still looking for pictures from the period.. but originally the car seems to have been equipped with the Rally Struts (with fixed spring perches)... then changed later to the adjustable coil overs.. why or exactly by whom... is still TBD. As you will see from the original data tags when i get the pictures on-line.... they are marked NISSAN S30 RALLY... That is not to say that the struts weren't later modified with the coil overs.. the car was road-raced briefly by it's second owner.. Agreed.. that is most likely what I will do.. the restoration is primarily aimed at presenting the car as it originally appeared, and preserving the history... I seriously doubt it will ever actually be raced again. Agreed... that was pretty much the path that BRE followed.. they used as much off the shelf stuff that Nissan could supply... then modified from there. The numbers are not stamped into the struts anywhere that I can find.. and I sanded them down to bare metal before refinishing them. They had aluminum foil type stickers, that had the information printed in ink on them. I haven't removed the rear struts yet.. and may be able to get some additional details off them, once I get them off the car. At this point I do not know for certain when/who they were installed.. The one article done by a Magazine in 1973 used photo's of the car before it was actually complete... then the second owner converted some things for road racing.. and he very well could have modified/changed the suspension at that point... that would have been closer to the 74/76 time period you mention... I'm in the middle of a major transition between computers right now..so as soon as I can find, publish the pictures of the struts and what was left of the stickers.. I'll get back with you.. (moving from a seven year old Mac G3 to a new G5... very painful experience.. upgrading and/or up-dating all the software and files etc..) more later, thanks, Carl

Hi Alan: Yes, that would be supported by Andrews reply at #9 also. As the spring perch is higher on the strut, when the above mentioned springs are installed.. they can not be interchanged with the spring we are tracking. Nor can I find any source for them at present. Actually no.. I had not researched the damper spec.'s - -that accompanied the various spring rates from Nissan/Datsun. For that matter it is next to impossible to get the technical spec.'s for any of the aftermarket units as well. Would be interesting to know. So it makes us wonder which set of springs/struts were on the production car tested, as well as the shock rates used. Yes/No? I've also noticed that the installed height of the various springs, would also change the relationship of front and rear ground clearance. That too would have an effect on lift at higher speeds I would guess. I was aware that on the various competition cars shock absorbers and their valves could be changed and/or altered to provide local fine tuning. I have the Factory Race Suspension on my BRE Z and am finding it impossible to locate any parts to rebuild the shocks... err... dampers... (54302-E4622 and 54303-E4622 front struts, 55302-E4622 and 55303-E4622 rear struts). I may just have to turn to the after-market and have a custom set built. Do you have any specifications for the springs used on the Factory Rally Suspension? I can not find the spec.'s anywhere. All I have to compare is the Free Length of the Race and Rally Springs.. Of course I have the Race springs so I can measure them... Do you know anyone that has the original Rally Suspension...that could take some measurements for us? It's not critical, but it would be interesting to know.. Not really. Many of the JDM and Export parts not found as standard equipment on the US/North American Spec. cars - are listed and were available via Special Order over the Parts Counter at the Datsun Dealers. Many were also listed in the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs though Nissan Motors USA. Could have been just a way or generating additional parts and service revenue, by selling into the huge after-market for speciality and performance parts here in the US at the time. The Dealership I worked at installed a lot of them for customers after they purchased their cars. (rear spoilers, 5spd.'s, lower ratio rear gears, stiffer springs etc.). I remember that my first 5spd. over the Parts Counter cost ... are you sitting down.. $375.00!!). Since the Datsun 240-Z's sold here in the States, really had no true factory "options" (other than A/T) that the customer could select/order on his car... the customers here were hungry for items that could be used to "customize" or "individualize" their Z's, as well as increase the performance of the car. The automotive after-market was fairly quick to supply a host of comfort, performance and appearance items for the 240-Z's. Many of which became "Factory Authorized" and were resold by Nissan Motors USA, with Datsun Parts numbers thourgh the dealer network. regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi kurtwwalters: To answer your questions: The State Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) determined the "title year". But I think your question is really about the "Model Year" recorded on that title. (title year being the year the title itself was issued) In 1970/1971 the Dealer determined the Model Year. Yes, if it was first sold to a retail customer in 1971, it would commonly have been titled as a 1971 ""Model Year". (do you have a copy of the original title or original bill of sale showing how it was originally titled? Could have been a mistake made on previous title transfers too.). See: See: <a href=http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html>http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html</a> Now we'll have to update "the Z Car Home Page"...Record holders have to come to Clearwater to claim their prize.... Hooters sounds good to me...we have the Original one here!! FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

The seller owns the auction company that had it for sale in OK.. The seller lives in California the car is still listed as being in OK He has also corrected many of the mistakes in the first ad.. This car should sell... For a time, Nissan shipped the Left door panels that were intended for the Right Hand Drive cars... This was an error on their part.. but these seem to have found their way into some of the Vintage Zs; I'd guess because the program schedules did not allow them to wait on replacements. regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

The FMVSS for 77/78 changed the requirements for rear-end impact damage control. As far as I know, all the 77/78 280Z's had the raised rear deck originally intended to pass the new FMVSS .... If you order rear bumpers you will notice that they are all different for the late 260Z (based on the 280Z body), the 75/76 280Z's and the 77/78 280Z's.. this is because the rear impact test requirements changed in those years.. So to did the uni-body structures that carried the bumpers and took the impacts.. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: Great... that helps a lot. Now all we need is either the Wire Diameter, or the Coil Diameter (coil dia. is measured from the center of the wire on one spring coil to the center of the wire on another spring coil - 180 degrees from the first). Since we know the Inside Diameter either the Wire Dia. or the Coil Dia. can be derived from the other. Then we need to know how many coils are in the springs. Number of coils and/or Number of Effective Coils. Note: the number of coils might be say 10 but the number of Effective Coils could be 8.5 if the bottom coil is pressed together. Everyone keep digging... regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: The above is the OEM Spring for the US/North American Spec. Cars as well. The above is what we know as the Euro Stage II Spring. Rate is: 2.18 kg/mm or 122 lbs/in The above is what we know here in the US as the Euro Spec. Stage I spring. It is listed in our Parts Manuals as "optional". The above is listed here in the US as "Optional with A/C and A/T. Spring rate is 1.49 kg/mm or 83 lbs/in. The above is the same as the OEM spring for the US/North American Spec. Cars. The above is what we here in the US know as the Euro Spec. Stage II spring. Rate is: 2.18 kg/mm or 122 lbs/in. The above is known here in the US as the Euro Spec. Stage I spring. Listed as "'Optional" here in the US Parts Catalogs. The above is listed here in the US as "Optional" with A/C and A/T rate is 1.49 kg/mm or 83 lbs/in. The above is listed here as the OEM rear springs for the US/North America The above is listed here in the US as the Euro Spec. Stage II spring. Spring rate is 2.5 kg/mm or 140 lbs/in The above is listed here as the Euro Spec. Stage I spring and optional. Hope I got that right... thanks, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: The data provided is most helpful indeed. I'll cut/paste all this into a single table, and try to keep the Metric to US conversions consistant.. I'll also see if some of the Part Numbers have been changed over the years etc. Bear with me... this may take some time... thanks again, Carl B.

Hi Andrew: Yes.. that is very helpful to know. It pretty much says that the UK got what our US Parts refer to as the ""Euro. Spec. Stage II" springs. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Alan (everyone): I guess that is one of the answers I was hoping to get defined. The Euro Spec. Springs could be ordered through the Datsun Parts Dept.. at any Datsun Dealer here in the US from the 70's forward. However there were two options, Euro Spec. Stage I and Euro Spec. Stage II. I have found no clear definition of which, if any, Countries got the Euro. Spec. Stage II springs. I believe that the Left Hand Drive and Right Hand Drive models would have used the same springs, only the Right and Left Front Springs would have been swaped depending. (Yes/No?). No, I thought that if everyone sent the data we could sort out which countries got what. We would also know what is or is not interchangeable What We Have Listed Here In The US Parts Catalogs: Part Numbers and Spring Rates - Euro Spec. Stage I Springs 54010-E4107 240Z Spring/RF (101 lbs/in) 54010-E4106 240Z Spring/LF (101 lbs/in) 55020-E4201 240Z Spring/R (112 lbs/in) Part Numbers and Spring Rates - Euro Spec. Stage II Springs (as you listed) 54010-E8100 240Z Spring/LF (122 lbs/in) 54010-E8101 240Z Spring/RF (122 lbs/in) 55020-E8100 240Z Spring/R (140 lbs/in). (although Courtesy's Listing would seem to have the R and L front spring Parts Numbers reversed - or was this done intentionally for application to Left Hand Drive cars here?????). I was most specifically looking for the specifications for the Euro Spec. Stage I springs. The Euro Spec. Stage II springs require a different spring perch height on the front struts, than that which is standard on the US Spec. Cars. In other words to use the Stage II springs on the US Spec. cars the spring perch height has to be raised 1" to maintain full shock travel; or new optional struts were required: 54302-E8127 240Z OPT Strut /RF 54303-E8127 240Z OPT Strut/ LF We hope to have the US Spec. and Euro Spec. Stage I springs reproduced, as they are NLA everywhere here in the US now. However the manufacturer requires the complete set of spring specifications. The OEM springs removed from 71/72 240Z's here, are testing out to be about 70% to 80% of their specified rates. Many people do not want to use the performance springs presently available in the after-market, because they all result in lowered ride height, or springs that are way too stiff for GT use. Any information you can supply will be greatly appreciated, especially the complete spec.'s for the Euro Spec. Stage I springs (which is what I believe were OEM on the GB models. Kind regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Would someone with a Factory Service Manual for the Euro Spec. DATSUN 240-Z's please Post the specifications for the OEM springs. The Factory Service Manual should list in the Service Data and Specifications at the end of the Front/Rear Suspension Sections: Wire Diameter Coil Diameter Coil Turns Coil Effective Turns Free Length Installed height/load Spring Constant