Carl Beck

Hi Texasz (everyone) As far as we have been able to determine to date, the switch from the NISSAN 2400 OHC valve cover to the NISSAN OHC valve cover, at least here in North America, took place with the beginning of production of the 240-Z equipped with an A/T. That would make it around 09/70 at about HLS30 089xx. For a brief time cars past that VIN arrived with either one, but we have found none with production dates later than 10/70 to have been equipped with the "2400" type. All of the A/T cars seem to have had the NISSAN OHC valve covers. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello rztmartini: Well we could start by looking at the tranny to determine if it's a Type A - with the three piece case, or the Type B with the two piece case. Gears usually don't get sloppy - but the gear shift linkage can cause a very sloppy feeling. The Type A gear boxes are commonly referred to as the "monkey motion" type.. because the shift lever was mounted in rubber bushings and the shift linkage was a bit vague to begin with. If you have that type of gearbox - there are some "fixes". One of the most common is to replace the rubber bushings with metal one's. If you have the Type B gear box - a sloppy feeling can be caused by the nylon bushings between the shift lever and the control arm on the transmission wearing out of falling out. There are three bushings involved. One on each side of the shift lever where it is pinned to the transmission, and one on the bottom of the shift lever below the pin. It's really an easy and inexpensive fix. As was mentioned earlier in this thread - if you have the A Type you'll need to pull it out and take it apart to count teeth on the gears. If you have the B Type - you'll still have to pull it out, but you can usually tell which one you have by checking certain gears. This can be done by turning the input shaft and and seeing how many turns it takes to make one complete revolution of the output shaft. There is no way to tell from looking at the outside of the case which transmission you have. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

I do not know where the seller found the Date Of Manufacture that he has stated. However based on the original engine serial number shown - it is most likely the car was built around 08/70. If you have HLS30 02126 then your original engine serial number would be in the range of L24-2500 to L24-5xxx. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Of the three head you ask about - the N42 flows the best stock, it has larger intake and exhaust valves to begin with. (44/35 vs 42/33). The N42 & E88 have close to the same combustion chamber size and design. E88 is 44.7cc and the N42 is 44.6. By comparison the P90 had a 53.6cc combustion chamber... so you'd have to mill it to get the compression up - then most likely shim the cam towers to get the correct height to keep the chain tight etc. An N42 with Flat Tops should put you right around 9.5:1 as I recall, but if you mill it a bit, then unshroud the valves it will come out between 9.5:1 and 9.8:1. You'll have to cc the combustion chambers when the initial work is done... to see where you end up. Just do a little Port Matching and your good to go. With any of these older heads - be sure to have your machine shop check them closely for micro cracks before you put any serious money into them. Good luck, Carl B. Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Will: The ashtray pictured on Top is from #00587 12/69 The ashtray picted on the Bottom is from #00020 11/69 FWIW, Carl B.

I put a set of Dunlop SP SPORT A2's on my White 72 a couple years ago. This was a 195HR70x14. This was also the least expensive tire I've ever put on any Z. As I recall Tire Rack had them for $49.95 and Sears had them on sale for $46.95... so I went to Sears. I just wanted a "good" tire for pleasure trips - but I wanted it to handle well (if not great). I also really didn't care what it cost - so much as I wanted to keep my 14" Libre's. and a more or less stock look. I have to report that I was amazed at the quality of the Service at my local Sears Auto Center. They mounted/balanced 4 tires on my American Racing Equipment Libre's.. and no tire took more than an ounce to balance. I've driven 240-Z's since 1970 - and had the ARE Libre's on them since about 71. They have always been difficult to mount - and the 240-Z's are so sensitive to tire balance that I usually wind up having them re-balanced a few times before getting it right. Sears put them on the car - I drove out to the freeway and the balance was perfect first time. I've been very happy with the ride and handling of these tires. They do tend to want to go straight.. even when you might want to drift from one lane to another... so you have to steer them to the other lane.. (hard to explain in writing, but easy to feel when you are driving. They also might have a slight bit of noise at speed, that might bother someone - doesn't bother me. I do not know at this point how long they well last, nor what total mileage to expect from them - but for a car intended mostly for longer road trips and pure pleasure driving - I'd recommend them to anyone. Matter of fact I took my Blue 72 Z back to Sears a few months later and had a set put on it as well. Considering the price - and performance I'd think anyone would be happy with them. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan (everyone): It must be - in this case it is mine as well. This is interesting... I went back to some of the earler Competition Parts listings for our Datsun 2000 Roadster (1969 I think). As that is supposed to be the transmisson sold here, that could be converted for use in the Z. It lists 1st gear as..... 2.937 !! All I have here for the 2000 Roadster - is part numbers for "Gear Sets".. but no data for the individual tooth count of the gears/shafts... What does your Parts Catalog list as the tooth count on both the Gear and the Main Shaft? (maybe we should do the calculations ourself;-) Could be... when it comes to the recording, reporting, conversion or translation of data or information by Nissan Motors Ltd. (no matter what country they are operating in) - - I think we've all learned to trust but verify. No one is perfect, and the publications by Nissan in the late 60's and early 70's are certainly proof of that. As for my transcriptions - I'll simply have to quit doing them this late at night. FWIW Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Jim (everyone) Thanks - always fun to share whatever I can. This should give you a good idea of what the Borg Warner T-5 looks like. See <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm</a> kind regards, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan (everyone) 1 out of 2 Yes - NMCRK-32011 is correct (my typo) No - 2nd gear is listed as 1.383 in the 73 & 74 Edition of the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs. Very interesting... thanks. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Alan (everyone) Our Datsun Competition Catalogs list the following, but these are part numbers for gear assemblies (not entire transmissions). I'll try to line them up with your input. Middle Close Ratio: Part Number=99996-J3010 1st-2.678, 2nd-1.704, 3rd-1.262, 4th-1.00, 5th-0.852 Ultra-Close Ratio: Part Number = NMCRK-32011 1st-1.858, 2nd-1.388, 3rd-1.217, 4th-1.00, 5h-0.852 I can't find anything on this end that matches that gearing. Stock Ratio: Part Number= 99996-J3020 1st-2.957, 2nd-2.858, 3rd-1.311, 4th-1.00, 5th-0.852 Note: I believe that a Part Number starting with "99996-" in the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs - mean it was some configuration of parts put together by the Datsun Competition Dept. and assigned a Part Number by them. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com Edited to correct typo's or wrong data...cjb

Hi Alan (everyone) Terms seem to be used quite inconsistently to be sure. I don't believe that we here in the USA ever had an option to purchase the non-synchronized "dog box" or "dogleg box". Although a few of them did make their way into the US over the years. If we followed Nissan's transmission coding scheme - a direct drive (1:1 ratio in 5th gear) that was a non-synchronized box - the dogleg box would be a F571B wouldn't it???? Maybe we should try lining up Part Numbers. I agree that there is lots of confusion - but as to Datsun Competition use of the term "Competition" applied to the transmission options - I do not believe what you have outlined was really the case. The Datsun Competition Dept. here in the US used the term "Competition 5sd." to differentiate the FS5C71B transmissions from the standard F4W71B and later the FS5W71B available in the 1977 and forward 280Z/ZX's in North America. The 4spd. F4W71B and the Overdrive 5spd. FS5W71B, that was optional in the 77+ 280Z/and standard in ZX came with wide ratio gears and utilized the Warner type synchronizers. The "Overdrive Competition 5spd." (FS5C71B) utilized the Servo type synchronizers and was offered in either Wide or Close ratios: Wide Ratio: #32010-N3200 1st - 3.321, 2nd-2.077, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.00, 5th- 0.864 Close Ratio: #32010-N3030 1st-2.906, 2nd-1.902, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.00, 5th- 0.864 Datsun Competition also offered a "Direct Drive 5spd" with 5th gear being a 1:1 ratio. The F5C71B These were referred to as the "Racing Transmissions" by Datsun Competition, and were offered with four different gear sets. Race Transmission #1: #32010-N3220 1st-2.818, 2nd-1.973, 3rd-1.470, 4th-1.192, 5th-1.00 Race Transmission #2: #32010-N3221 1st-2.348, 2nd-1/601, 3rd-1.296, 4th-1.138, 5th-1.00 Race Transmission #3: #32010-N3222 1st-2.192, 2nd-1.601, 3rd-1.470, 4th-1.138, 5th-1.00 Rally Transmission: #32010-N3201 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.270, 3rd-1.601, 4th-1.240, 5th-1.00 So here in the US - per Datsun Competition's use of the terms: Competition 5spd = overdrive with servo (steel) synchronizers) FS5C71B Racing 5spd = direct drive with servo (steel) synchronizers) F5C71B A side note just for fun: The "Warner" type synchronizers are brass, the servo (aka Porsche type) synchronizers are steel. The Warner type provide smoother shifting - the steel synchronizers wear longer, and they will take higher RPM. Porsche actually licensed their synchronizers from Warner the Patient Holder.. then modified the design to use steel. The extended shift linkage length, in the Porsches put additional and constant pressure on the synchronizers in their transmissions (kind of like riding around with your hand resting on our shift levers), causing the brass to wear prematurely, so a design change to steel was required. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mark: Really great to hear that Ira is doing so well.... but.. Could you write that Post again - only this time include the words ahead of any abbreviations the first time the abbreviations are used. It's the only way i can learn what your talking about;-) thanks, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Russell (everyone) Actually there is power for the rear electric pump in the factory wiring harness. When you find the wire that goes from the dash area to the pump - you'll find another wire right beside it. Both have female spade ends, so you need to get/make a male/male spade connector to bridge them together... that will send power to the pump. The "problem" is there is no safety circuit in the early factory system - and most likely one reason it wasn't used in the US. No automatic shut off with loss of oil pressure, no automatic shut off in an accident... If you install a relay... you want to activate it only when you have oil pressure... or better put a timer on it so that it runs with no oil pressure for say 5 seconds at start-up, then shuts off any time after that - if no signal from the oil pressure sender is present. Electric fuel pumps are great - but you don't want them running when they shouldn't be. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan//Ron (everyone) Yes - it looks like both Classic Motorsport and Grass Roots Motorsports are both now owned by Motorsport Marketing Inc. - Headquartered in Ormond Beach, FL on Division Ave. On checking farther - in 2003 Grassroots Motorsports had announced a merger with Classic Autosport Magazine ( a British Publication)... by the Aug. 2003 Issue the name was changed to Classic Motorsport Magazine. (even if your subscription was originally to Classic Autosport Magazine) In Nov. of 2003 Tim anounced that the subscription renewal rates from Classic Autosport were high, so the British readers must have like the changes being made At any rate I must be confused at to what actually transpired between Grass Roots Motorsports and Classic Autosport.... I had the impression that Classic Autosports had bought-out Grass Roots Motorsports so they would have distribution and printing here in the US... but it looks like it might have been the other way around....??? By-the-way, I still have my first issue of AUTO-X magazine... Nothing stays the same... Carl B.

HI Ron (everyone) I don't know why - but I was thinking that Classic Motorsport Magazine was a British Publication, which had either merged with or bought-out Grass Roots Motorsports here in the US. Does the publication information in the front of the magazine show it being an American Publication now? FWIW, Carl B.

Like many things "collectible"... where there are few items available, but also few buyers seeking them... the actual "worth" is established by the current seller and serious buyer - at the point they reach agreement. If someone actually needed one - and needed it badly enough and soon.... and "if" the transmission was in perfect working order - not needing rebuild nor refreshing - then you might see $800.00 to $1,200.00 change hands. If the gears and synchro's are worn... the seals leaking...maybe $300.00 to $500.00 Because the ultra-close has such a very high 1st gear - there really isn't much demand for them, except among the roadster racers... who actually want the higher 2nd gear in them. That doesn't seem to effect the price of them so much as it does the time it takes to find a buyer. (I've known people that have held them for years before finding a buyer that needed one). The middle close gear set will sell quicker, as it can be used with a 3.9 to 4.11 rear gear on the street. Past someone actually needing one - for whatever reason - there are people who simply would like to have one. However because their demand is driven by desire, rather than actual need - they will usually stop short of spending much over $400.00 for a good transmission. Several months ago - I had a friend looking for an ultra-close ratio... he found one and paid $900.00 for it. It was in a running car at the time, so he could drive it and check it out. A gear box sitting on the ground is usually a pig-in-a-poke... and unless you are a recognized mechanic, or a known racer with some creditability related to determining the condition of the transmission ... it can be hard to convince any potential buyer that the transmission is any good at all. I guess the bottom line is - how fast do you want to move it out of your garage? Is it worth holding a couple more years if you could get $900.00 for it instead of a quick $400.00 now? All personal decisions you'll have to make.... good luck, Carl B.

Hi VaGuS510 How exactly - are you measuring or calculating your mpg figures? Describe the typical trip to/from work, school or whatever - what time of day, how many miles each way. How long do you have to keep the choke on before the car warms up? I drove my 72 Z back and forth to work each day, about four miles one way for several years. On the highway at a pretty constant 70 mph - it would get between 25 and 27 mpg. In town, used for work and a few side trips - 12.5 to 14 mpg. Choke on to start, then within the first two miles I'd be easing the choke off as the engine came up to full operational temp.s'. Stop and go traffic... If your driving 20 to 30 miles to work each day, using the freeways in the city... then your mileage would be expected to be much higher... Gas Mileage isn't just a function of engine tune... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: What O/S / Browser/ Software etc are you using? With O/S 10.3.9 and Firefox all I get is the errro message "The Playlist Format Is Not Recognized". thanks, Carl B.

Hi Vissan: Do you mean you found a used Weber, as in "one" 4 barrel? Or do you mean you found a used set of triple Webers, along with the linkage and manifold - for $1000.00. If they are in good condition - and presently running on an L series engine - then yes, $1,000.00 would seem to be in the ball park for them. They can range from $500.00 to $1,200.00 depending on the completeness and condition of the set-up. Good chrome air cleaners for them are about $75.00 each as I recall... so add or subtract if they are included or not. I have had lots of experience with triple Webers - I wouldn't recommend them today. I bought and installed mine back in the mid 70's... then spent twice as much as they cost new, on trying to get them properly tuned on my car. No, I wouldn't recommend them today... That said, many people simply like the "look" of them on the Z Engine, and/or the sound of them at WOT... Get a set of SU's off the 70-72 240-Z's, including the intake manifold, linkage and air cleaner. Then send the old SU's to "Z Therapy" as an exchange for a set of their Re-manufactured SU's. For about $750.00 you'll have a good running set up, that will supply all the air/fuel your L26 can call for. If you want more of a "project".. or something not so common... opt for a Fuel Injection set-up. There are several alternatives to look at - just do some research on HybridZ.com. Good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Brian: Can you tell me what the artists name, written below the left rear tire on the drawing of the #46 car is? It's just a bit too small to make out from the image. thanks, Carl B.

Hello Jim: Thanks so much!! I've been trying to find any linkage of that Griffon with DATSUN for quite some time. Years ago, the Datsun Dealers sold this Pocket Patch (see attached) over the Parts Counters - but no one could tell me how it was associated with "DAT", "Datson" or "Datsun"... it certainly isn't a little hare. As you can see the Pocket Patch isn't an Offical Datsun nor Nissan product, but was produced by an after-market supplier. I've also seen that Griffon on after-market gear shift knobs.

Hi nightowlZ: I have slightly different advice... take it for what it's worth. If you have the $600.00 spend it on the carb.'s. Learning to tune the S.U.'s can be fun and easy "IF".. you start with a set that is capable of being "tuned". Disassembly and cleaning, setting the floats etc. can be fun and easy - "IF" you start with a set that's in good condition to begin with. Attempting to install, then tune a set that is loaded with all kinds of other problems, for your first time - will be frustrating if not self defeating. Just looking at the pictures of the set you show - would give at least an indication that they are FAR from factory spec. in many regards, and they have already been molested by a less than proficient tuner. Believe me when I say that attempting to properly diagnose and correct three, four or five problems, all occurring at the same time - with a Set of SU's - when you are just learning about how they are supposed to operate, is NO FUN. Leaks around the throttle shafts, bent or malfunctioning hardware, bent fuel metering rods, maladjusted floats, etc etc etc - will all effect any "adjustments" you attempt to make, and the outcome of the recommended "adjustments" will not be as described etc etc. Anyone can "learn".... most people can learn more quickly if they work with someone that knows what they are doing and have experience doing it.... But if you are on your own, my best advice is to start learning how to adjust and tune - on a set of "known good" SU's. Once you have experience with a good base line, then you'll easily move on to dealing with more complex or compound problems. Spend the $600.00 on the rebuilt SU's - save money on labor that you can do without so many compounding "what if's"... In the mean time you'll have a car running right that you can enjoy, instead of fighting with. Springs/shocks etc can all come after... In either case, good luck. Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA

Hi Keith: As Kats seems to have left the area - The 5" wide steel wheels became standard equipment on the Series III (1972 Model Year, Production started 09/71 is reported by Nissan to have started at VIN HLS30 46000 - but a few earlier cars seem to have been built to the Series III spec.) Carl B.

Hi Chris: Why would a discussion of the development and growth of the Japanese Auto Industry get out of hand? Let's just not let it. It's a tremendous success story, from cottage industry to Industrial Giant in 30 years. To many books to count, have been written about the subject. Even more fascinating was the Strategic Planning and execution of Tactics involved in that evolution. IMHO - we should all be encouraged to know more about it. In the mid-50's the Japanese Auto Industry fully recognized that their domestic market was too small to support the mass production levels necessary to bring unit costs and thus consumer prices in Japan, down to affordable levels. In 1957 Mr. Kawamata, as President of Nissan Motors, outlined his Strategic Plan For Nissan's Growth by exporting cars to the USA. (as did most of the Japanese Auto Industry - it wasn't just Nissan). With mass production, unit prices could be brought down, and a domestic auto market could be grown. Nissan Motors moved with amazing speed from 1958 to 1970... to fully implement their export strategy in America. Indeed Nissan was establishing footholds in many other Countries around the world, but really nothing anywhere close to the export efforts to America. If you have an interest in even earlier history - pre WW-II - One new book that I would recommend to anyone with an interest - is now available for purchase, translated into English from the original Japanese - on the Internet... is: " William R. Gorham - An American Engineer in Japan" is a book originally written by the "William R. Gorham Memorial Committee in 1950 (his fellow Japanese Engineers), and recently translated into English by his Grandson Don Cyril Gorham. William R. Gorham went to Japan in 1918 and is credited by the Japanese Auto Industry with many significant contributions to their automotive success in general and Nissan Motors in particular. You can order a copy of the book on-line at: <a href=http://www.lulu.com/ TARGET=NEW> Lulu.com</a> The main focus of the original Post was wining market share via "Quality" products - wasn't it? Another American is regarded as a prime factor in Japan's Total Quality Initiatives to this day. I believe that Japan still awards the "Deming Prize" for Total Quality Management to their highest achievers. For that matter Nissan Motors Ltd. won a Deming Prize for Manufacturing in 59/60. Yes, it was Yutaka Katayama's following of the Deming Philosophy of Total Quality Management - that drove him to constantly lobby Nissan Japan, to design and build the specific cars his customers wanted in America... ie. Customer Driven Product Design. If you want to see what influence Mr. K had, in the growth and development of Nissan Motors Ltd... you can read: Akira Kawahara's "The Origin of Competitive Strength - Fifty Years of the Auto Industry in Japan and the US" (ISBN 4-431-70223-7), if your interested. There is also an entire chapter devoted to Mr. K's accomplishments and influence in David Halberstam's "THE RECKONING". ( ISBN 0-688-04838-2). Ford compared to Nissan... a real eye opener!. A fascinating subject for many of us... Some might see it as "Japan" vs. "America", but most of use see it as a successful partnership for both. Can you imagine what junk we might be driving today if the original Big Three had held their monopoly on auto sales in the US? (Vega, Pinto..yeiks!) FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - Japan has its sights set on greatly increasing exports to Western Europe now. Mr. G announced a goal to greatly increase market share for Nissan in Western Europe as part of his turn around plan for Nissan Motors Ltd. With the EU making it easier to comply with more standardized import laws, and the dropping of the restrictions on Japanese car imports to Western Europe in 2000; Nissan, Toyota and Honda finally see the opportunity to compete in that market. In 2002 the Japanese had captured only 11.5% of the European market. With old trade barriers finally removed - you can bet we'll see some serious competition for automotive sales in Europe by Nissan, Toyota and Honda... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com