texasz

Anyone? I'd really like to know what the benefits are...

I'm a bit ignorante about these things. What kind of air filter do you use with these?

I just went through this with BOTH my doors. Here's a tip: the outside door handles are interchangable! So it you switch which side the door handles are on then you will be set for a little while. That is until the next "arm" breaks, then you will have to seek out a new handle. :classic:

Have you modified this R200 to work with the R180 half shafts that are stock in the 240Z?

Ernie, Another good place to look is www.hybridz.org many of these guys yank the stock engines, wiring, ECU and all to do a V8 swap and they do not want to keep the old L6 so they sell them off. This is how I got my L28E that will eventually go into my 240Z. Got it cheap too, $150 for a running engine! Not turbo mind you but still a great find.

Can't say as though I can help much. But I am curious if there's something wrong with your engine? Or are you just looking to upgrade to something faster?

What I want to do is put a 1" sway bar up front and a 7/8" in the rear. This seems to be the way that they are paired up and re certainly more substantial than stock. Also when I do this I plan on putting urethane bushings on.

Like Doehring, I too would like a good explanation of what the benefit of an LD28 crank is. I have an "82 L28 with an F54 block that I'm going to rebuild with an N42 head and put in my 240Z and would like to know what difference the LD28 crank would make since I will already have it taken apart. I am planning on keeping everything else stock in the engine (i.e. no over boring).

Well until I got down to the money criteria I had an idea but unfortunately what I was going to suggest run more than that. However, should you find one...I LOVE my 4Runner!! It's a Toyota so it will run forever and they were originally designed with offroad driving in mind. Mine is a 2000 Sport model 4x4 with a 6cyl. but the new ones have a V8 option.

It was advertised as a Z sway bar, I can not remember what year now. That's ok though, the auction ended weeks ago.

If you live in Houston, Dallas, San Antonio, Austin or anywhere near or in between any of these locations please help me out if you can. I called Just Dashes and they want $800 to restore my dash, I can buy one from MSA for that. I need to know if there is anyone in the above areas that does dash restoration...NOT just putting a dash cap on the old dash. PLEASE help me out here, money is tight (as always) and I'm not sure I'll be able to send my dash off to Aust. with the other members like I had hoped.

kmack, Do you happen to know what year(s) this was in the Maxima?

Just for reference if anyone can also say what they can be found in for USA model cars that would be great info too.

Gav, What mods were done to the car?

There is one 240Z rear break drum for sale if for some reason you only need one. It should fit a 240Z, 260Z, or a 280Z (check your service manual before first). This came with my parts car and I have no need for it. Please save it from the garbage can! Pic will be added tonight. Make me a good offer and it's yours!

Square port exhaust manifold for sale. Came with my '73 parts car, not off that car just included as an extra with it. Has surface rust but NO rust through. Should fit on any head with square exhaust ports for a 240Z, 260Z, or a 280Z. This came with a car I just got and I have no need for it. Please save it from the garbage can! Pic will be added tonight. Make me a good offer and it's yours!

Victor, As I mentioned much of the history of what's going on is located in another thread which I provided a link to above. However, to help a bit here's some of the info. No points, it has an electronic ignition. Appears to be in good condition. Timing was set. Plug wires are pretty new and in good condition. New plugs were gapped yesterday just before installation. I have not done this nor do I know how. Fuel filter is new. Could not find the window to see what the float level was. As stated above, this was one thing I did yesterday. As stated above, this was one thing I did yesterday. I hope this helps a bit.

Updates moved into the Carb forum in this thread.

Well I finally had a bit of time to play with my carbs yesterday. As some of you may know from a previous post, Running Like A Dog Today, I was having some problems with the way the car was running. Bottom like is that it was running very rich. The plugs had about 3 hours of running time on them and were carbon fouled like you wouldn't believe (black, black, black). I got new plugs and printed out the instructions from zhome.com on how to tune your SUs and took three of my repair manuals out to embark on trying to fix the problem. Now I know that I did not really fix much but was fairly pleased with my results considering that this was my first run at messing with carbs. The car used to backfire ALL the time. I got that resolved (mostly). I do not think that I have the mixture right nor do I think that I have the carbs balanced. However, I did find that the knarled nut with the ball on it under the carb was only turned 1/2 turn down from the carb!! From what I have read it should have been 1.5 to 2.5 turns down as a starting point to tune them. I turned it down more and the backfiring stopped! The only time it backfired after this was when I pressed on the gas then started it. It seems as though the plugs are stilling fouling up but I think that I'm getting closer. I too the car out for a drive and it really seemed to drive, accelerate, and idle better now that it was getting more gas. However, it is still running rich I think. I really need to find a color tune to help me with this. Anyone know where I can find one? Also, I bought the Syncrometer from MSA instead of the Syncrotester and am not sure that this was a wise move. All of the documentation references the Syncrotester and where the floating ball should be but there is nothing to tell me how to use the Syncrometer. Should I write off the Syncrometer and just buy the Syncrotester or can someone help me to figure out how to use the Syncrometer? As an additional request, if there is anyone in the Austin area willing to help me learn how to tune my carbs I would really appreciate it.

For those looking for one of these bad boys I just saw this on eBay. R180 4.11 Open Diff.

First off welcome to the group. There's a wealth of information here and everyone is very willing to share it with you if only you ask. 1. You can read up on zhome.com about the cars history, production info and stats. 2. Definately look for rust! Look at the floorpans, under the battery tray, the rockers, the rear deck above the taillights where the hatch closes, frame rails, etc. You could probably find someone local to do your carb work but there is also a place in CA that has a good reputation for these carbs; it's ZTheropy and they have a website, ztheropy.com. 3. Can't help on this one, I'm in TX. 4. A/C was available as a dealer option as I recall so adding it I do not think would hurt the value (someone else here may have better info on that). However, if you want to buy the system you can get it from MSA (MotorSport) www.zcarparts.com or from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas TX, they have a website too. Either place I think it will cost you about $600-650. For more sites check out the links section here.

Tourniqet, you may want to post up a few pix of what's left of the car so people know what they would be getting. Just a thought.

I may be interested in the front sway bar. What car is this for? How used is it? Any cracks or anything at all wrong with it? Can the endlinks from my stock sway bar be used or should I have something more heavy duty for this bar? How much would shipping to 78613 be?

What car is this for? How used is it? Any cracks or anything at all wrong with it? How much would shipping to 78613 be?

gav, Where did you find that model of the police Z? That's really cool. I wonder if they are available any where...