texasz

I'm completely new to the internal workings of an engine. How would I know if it has been milled down too far?

That's the kind of aswer I wanted to hear. And pretty much what I expected but had to make sure. I may have to build on this thread after I get the head.

I will soon be getting a head that was rebuilt a couple years ago and has never been used or installed on a block. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of before trying to bolt it on and use it?

I installed an alarm in an early '80s Honda Accord hatchback around 1989 or so and it was a MAJOR PITA!! It took 8 hours over two days to do and this was a basic system, no power window or lock actuators, no starter kill; just door, hatch, and hood trigger switches and a vibration sensor. I'm not sure if I will ever do that again, every car since I have just paid the guys at Custom Sounds to do it...and it gets done the right way. Just my experience. Now granted this was when I was new to cars and audio (and the like) equipment. It would probably go quicker now that I know more.

By the way, I don't know if you have run the engine but it's not in perfect condition. There is a noise coming from the head and it was never fully dianosed, it may need a valve job. There were 1-2 threads on this back just before the accident. I searched for 30 minutes and could not find it though, it should be from late March or so.

I know this car, I test drove it 5 days before the accident as I was looking to buy it. After the accident I was offered this car and his parts car for free, he also placed an ad to give it away (should have taken it then but did not have anywhere for it at the time). I am going to pick up his parts car this weekend (still giving it to me). I do know that you gave some money for it even though he was willing to give it away but I also know that you have pulled the header, dual Webber DGVs, and maybe even some other parts that I don't know about. Now you are trying to sell it for more than you paid with less parts that are of interest. Free market and all but sorry, I will have to pass on this one. No disrespect intended but you got one heck of a deal, you will end up being paid $300 to take the car pull the parts you want and then get rid of it (paid $200, pulled good parts, sell for $500):bandit:. Good parts and cash in pocket...DAMN I should have taken it when I had the chance. Now if you decide to give it away let me know...

How much for the whole thing?

Here's a sway bar I found for sale and need to know if it will fit the REAR of my early 240Z (8/70 production date). Also if you can give an idea how much it should cost would be great.

Ernie, any luck with getting those breaks unstuck?

Charlie over at Zed Findings will sell the floorpans as a pair or seperately. Shipping was no different for me if I bought one or both so if you think that you may need both it will be cheaper in the long run to get them at the same time.

It was I who had started a thread here about how bad zcar.com was. And I feel for this guy on the other site. He really should come over here and get help instead of insulted. bambi...I don't think of you like that, you are one of the ones that always seems to have some helpfull advice. I know that you've helped me in the past. Thank you by the way! And thank you to everyone here who is so willing to help others out.

There's a guy selling lots of parts on hybridz.com and he has the JDM amber taillights for $400 (brand new!), and the fender mirrors for $200 (I think these are new also). Here's the link if you are interested: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23446 I wish I had the cash to get those taillights but there are other more pressing needs for my Z.

Just a note on having a glass company put in used glass... I had this done on a Blazer I owned years ago. I went and found a windshield in a junk yard for $75 and the install price was $50 totalling WAY less than a new windshield. HOWEVER, the glass company would not take any responsibility should the old used glass break upon re-installation. So basically, if they would have broken it I would have had to go get another one. Fortunately there were no problems but the lesson here is that while they do know what they are doing and typically do things the right way they probably will not ensure that the used glass will not break and will take no responsibility if it does.

Hmmmm....Mine does not have this and it was made 8/70 which is titled as a '71. Was this not a goodie that was on the US market cars?

Correct Jeff, there is no tranny and the started in in a box under the engine which is attached to the engine stand via the trans bolts.

biker, I forgot to mention that someone along the way has converted this car to elctronic ignition so there are no points. GTZZZ, is the video really that helpful? I guess maybe I should buy a copy of it.

Ok, so if you read the original post you know what the car is/is not doing. 1 - I pulled the plugs and they were ALL black as could be. Looked this up and the car is running rich. This was supportive of the fact that the car is backfiring like crazy. Damn, these plugs are less than two weeks old. I wiped them down and put them back in. 2 - I pulled the air cleaner and while the car was running sprayed each carb with carb & choke cleaner. Oddly enough when I sprayed the front carb the car would bog down as expected but when I sprayed the rear carb it would not bog down no matter how much I sprayed in there. I put my hand in front of the rear carb and it was pulling air. 3 - Using a scynrometer I tested both carbs and the meter shot up to 30 (the highest reading). This is one of those nifty meters that MSA sells to balance and tune your carbs. Now I do not know what a reading of 30 means nor how to adjust them to be where they should be. 4 - While the car was running I turned the adjusting screws on both carbs counterclockwise a couple turns and this did not seem to make any difference. I turned the adjusting screw on both carbs all the way clockwise then counterclockwise 1.5 turns. This seemed to make no difference either. ??? I'm lost!! Now what??? :disappoin

The engine is on a stand in my garage. How would you do the compressino test?

All sounds interesting. Shipping would be a killer to the US though. I agree that the battery tray area would be a HUGE hit! There's nobody out there doing it. The floorpans are available from Zed Findings so people on this contenent may shop there as shipping would probably be much less. I wish I knew how to do this kind of work, I have often thought that producing the battery tray area would be a nice way to support my Z expenses. Please do keep us informed as to your progress, what you have to sell and how much it would cost us.

Fuel filter is less than a month old and still looks brand new. A couple guys I work with and I just took a break and walked out to see the car (one had not seen it yet) and they both agreed that the problem has to do with the fuel system in some way. Suggestions were to spray carb & choke cleaner into the carbs to try and clean them up a bit. Another thought was maybe about a vaccume leak somewhere (but I have no clue how to check for this). At lunch I checked for moisture on all the plug and coil wires and everyting looked dry. It's in the mid to upper 90's today and the car was parked out in the sun so it has heated up nicely so anything that may have been damp should be dry by now. Yet it still runs like crap.

Is it obvious which has been done to look at the valves? I'm working a deal to get a head that has been rebuilt and never used and I'd be curious to know what was done to it. What should I expect to have to pay for the 3 angle job?

Hmmm.... Sounds like a good thing to have done. How much difference does this make? I'm just wonding aoubt the cost for benefit to see if it's really worth doing.

I will be starting to rebuild my new engine and need some info. First off let me say that it is an F54 block and I'm working on getting an N42 head from someone (deal is pending), and will be running carbs on an N36 intake; car already has a header on it. The PO of the engine said that the car had been sitting for a couple years before he bought it. He said he drove it home and then pulled the engine to do a V8 swap. I will be pulling the FI and head and replacing both with different pieces as stated above. What should I do to the engine during the rebuild? New rings? New pistons? Take the block to a machine shop? If so what should I have them do? What gaskets should I use? Do the freeze plugs need to be replaced? Tell me EVERYTHNIG! Basically I do not want to have to pull the engine out once it's done and I want it done right...but I am on a budget like most of us are. Car use will be for weekend pleasure and autox if this helps any.

What the heck is this!? How is this different than just having a valve job done?

I drove my Z to work today and man was it running like crap! It was sputtering and backfiring (from the exhaust) on acceleration like crazy, not even hard acceleration just average. If I pull the choke up then it drove better...killed any power I have though and made passing tougher. However, I would have to push the choke all the way down when I came to a stop otherwise the car would stall. I drove it a 1 1/2 weeks ago and it was running fairly well all things considered. Now today the temp was 5-10 degrees less and the humidity was higher as it has been raining here on and off for the past several days. I did have it running on the 4th showing it to a few friends but did not drive it anywhere. Any ideas or help would be great!! I'm at a loss as to what's going on.