EuroDat

Looks like a really nice clean body. If the rest of the structure is like the back section, it will be a great project. Keep the photos coming. Chas

FWIW I have changed pinion oil seals on diffs and had mixed results. Whining is a problem and often happens after the pinion re-aligns with the crown wheel. I only had sucess when I did NOT set the pre-load to factory spec. The old bearings are worn and the pinion/crown position is worn to suite. Pre-loading the used pinion bearings will shift the alignment and can cause it to whine. My advice: Note the position of the pinion nut and then remove it. Check that the pinion flange freely moves up & down on the splines. Remove any lock tab burrs on the nut so it will turn freely. Tighten it the original position and check the tension with a tension wrench. It will be a lot less than factory spec. Fit the new flange and pinion seal and use this tension to pre-load the new flange. Its not perfect, but it worked better than factory spec. Chas

Do you mean the mounting points in the chassis? The crossmember and rear engine mount support are removable. These could be modified to suit the V6 without effecting the structure of the car. Goodluck with your project Looking forward to seeing some photos. Chas

Do you have any experience working on diffs. Changing a pinion flange seems easy, but getting bearing pre-load right is not as easy as poeple think on used bearings. You could be fixing a vibration and getting a whining diff in return. It might be easier getting a complete diff. FWIW Chas

Nitrophyl is a trade name from Rogers corporation? The basic rubber is a closed cell NBR rubber (Technical name: Acrylonitrile Butadiene). It also goes under trade names as Nitrile & Buna-N, Nipol & Europrene. Rogers corp does not sell resins. We (where I work) have used them in Gent Belgium, but they require €1200 tooling costs and a minimum order of 250 pieces. That was a special rubber bellow for a high speed shear mixer. The vulcanising process for NBR if not easy for a hobby guru to try. Probably why no one making them... Refab from another larger float could be a possability though. Chas

Took me a while staring at the photos to realise what I was looking at. The ball section is the fixed anchor and the section around it with the two threaded stud holes is the mirror housing. Nice simple fix. End result looks great. How does the swivel action feel compared to original now it has the extra washer? Just wondering if the washer might cause extra movement making it harder to fix position. Chas

I no expert on 280ZX, but maybe the diferent oil pan comes from the ZX model with recirculating ball steering or the powered steering versions?

Zed Thanks for clearing that up. Here its called a "kooi" in dutch, but I meant retainer? Chas

I dont have the old bearings anymore. It was about two years back when I did them, but these part numbers where the same part numbers that was on the bearings that came out. Front inner: LM 67048/010/Q Front outer: LM 11949/910/Q Chas

The front bearings are easy to get local Front inner: ID:31.75 OD:59.131 T:15.875mm SKF P/N: LM 67048/010/Q €12.75 Front outer: ID:19.05. OD:45.237. T:15.494mm SKF P/N: LM 11949/910/Q €9.75 Seal 48/62x6mm Nissan part 40232-A0101 €6.49 The rear are special? I have seen then in kits for around $70.00 on ebay, but then you have the shipping to deal with. Best price I can find is Z Parts centre from Jan Rozendaal here in Nederland. See link: Z Parts Centre :: 240-260-280Z rear wheel bearing kit Chas

Looking at the photos, the second photo helps a lot btw, I would look for another 5spd transmission. Or at least pull it apart before ordering any parts. If its beyond repair you can spend the money on a recon unit or another tranny. It looks very much like a bearing race and my guess is its from the main bearing in the adapter plate or the bearing on the input shaft. Going by the photos they are the only bearings big enough for that race. The other bearings are probably not much better. The races can break up when small pieces of metal get into the bearings and the balls push them out the side destroying the race.

If its leaking into the booster, then it will be coming from the MC rear reservoir. Hls30guru stated the "MC front" which I presume is the front of the MC for the rear brakes. In that case I would be looking at the rear wheel cylinders and go from there. The front brakes will use fluid when the pads wear, but the back brakes wont because they return to original position when released. Brake shoes wear is mechancally corrected by an adjusting screw when you use the hand brake. Can you explain what was involed when you did your 30 minute test? If you are just pushing down the brake pedal without the engine to provide vacuum assist, you probably wont get it to leak. Chas

Hi, you can find the EFI bible here XenonS30 Its down in the "Other Guide" section http://www.xenons30.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Chas

Thats a bumer, at least you found the source of your vibration. When I did my suspension rebuild 2 years ago I change out all the wear parts. New wheelberaings + seals, caliper seals and pistons, ball joints, tie-rod ends, top strut nsulators and shocks along with all the PU bushings. The rear wheel bearings and spindle pins are a pain in the butt to change. Theses cars are old and require more attention to keepthem going, but thats part of the fun IMO. If you have not found a water pump yet, you can order one here: Z Parts Centre :: 240-260-280-280ZX water pump Goodluck with the repairs Chas

I think mine is the same. Can't see much because its covered by the pulley. The recessed areas seem the same and I can just make out the ridged section, but could not see the GMB stamp because of the pulley. I wonder what GMB means. Maybe Nissan had contracted manufacures to make these or its aftermaket? Chas

I have a 280Z 1977 whish is probably the same. It uses screws (philips head with a thin metal pressed washer) to hold the top of the taillight panels. Thats the plastic inside panel and the outside surrounds and taillight plate. Chas

Doesn't look OEM to me. All the water pumps I have seen have a recessed (thinner section) area around the bolts. Where your bolts are at the same height as the pump body. If you know what I mean... Looks like some sort of aftermaket unit. Chas

Well said, Blue. Like they say; You pay for what you get.... Chas

Hi Bart, My Z has Hyperflex PU bushings from Energysuspension and I am happy with the results. The ride is a little harder, but it handles better. If you order from them, you will need to tell them the size of your sway bar for the two chassis insulators. They are not in the kit. $47.00 shipping and €36.00 dutch duties & taxes. Energy Suspension 7.18101 HyperFlex Master Kit Chas

Hi Niels, Nice to be making progress again. Can't see it in the photos, but I trust you are bagging all the small parts for later. It all looks logical now, but six to twelve months down the track you'll be scratching your head wonder which bolts,screws do I use the fit that??? Chas

You think your front pulley slipped. I had that happen and found TDC by measuring the nr1 piston depth. The "stick" method it too ball park figure for checking timing. To find TDC accuratly I punched the guts out of an old spark plug and welded a section of rond steel (section of 8mm bolt shank) into it. Fit it in nr1 spark plug and gently turn engine by hand until the piston touches it. Mark the pulley and then remove the plug. Turn the engine past TDC and fit plug agaiin. Turn engine backwards until it touches plug and mark the pulley. Exactly in the middle between these two marks is TDC. Then you can check timing. Chas

I agree with Leon. You have good compression on the other cylinders which would make it worth while investigating the cause before looking at a new engine. I wouldnt give up on the L24 just yet. Check the valve clearances and see if the problem is solved. If not you can do a leak down test to determine where its leaking. If you need help doing it, just ask. Goodluck Chas

Check out the thread from Ben's Z. Here is the link to the posthttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46890-my-engine-build.html Ben posted photos of his engine bay. You can see the bracket and hose in the first and second photos in post #20. Pacton's offer sounds like a great deal if your looking at keeping the "origin" look. Chas

Good point Leon. I think the Light weight flywheel should be higher on the list. That just my opinion. I lightened mine when I done the transmission and it improved response a lot. Doesnt do anything for horsepower, but that wasnt what I was after. Chas

I think their claim is accurate "Tests have shown increases in horsepower by as much as 9% at the rear wheels, and cuts in 0-60 times by .5 seconds.". They just forgot to mention they also installed better injectors, mild cam, good flowing exhaust, larger AFM and sport air cleaner. Jokes aside. One thing I have learnt about the L-Jetronic system. It doesnt like being modified to gain more horsepower. Just trying to keep these old systems at factory spec is a challenge. If you did change it, you would probably want to change the AFM to a toyota cressida. Hard to believe you would get 9% at the engine as for the rear wheels?? Thats a big improvement for just a throttle body. I think I would spend my money on a decent matched set of injectors and getting the wiring up to spec and the thermo temp mod. Chas