EuroDat

Just looking through the links and found my photo of the centering detent. If you look in the "Transmission ID thread in post 10 I posted some photos. In the second last photo you can see a container. The centering detent is just visable in the photo. Chas

Now reading this, you may have a problem (weak springs) in both the popet detents and the centering detent. The springs dont cost much. Less than €12.00 you have all four. In the states they are probably cheaper. The centering detent is easy to replace. Mine had very little tension when I unscrewed the cap nut. I could easly start it by hand to get it back in. The new spring needed a lot more pressure to get it started. The popet detents on the selectors are a bit more of a challenge. The two side detents are the "easiest" to remove. Just be carefull not to lose the ball. Its about 6mm in diameter if I remember correctly. The lowest of the twoo side plugs is for the fifth/reverse action. There is a third one On top. This one will be hard to get to with the transmission in the car. You will need a paper clip of such to hook the spring out. Getting it back in will be a PITA considering the space (or lack of it) you have to work in. You could try just changing the bottom one first and see what the difference is. That and the centering detent should help solve your problem a lot. While your at it, you can change the gear lever bushings. That helps tighten up the lever and gives you better control. They are still avaiable a Nissan. 2x 32855-H1010 (Pos#31) €3.41ea 1x 32861-N4200 (Pos#32) €3.67 Chas

Places to take a closer look are: 1: Brake switch under the MC. Depends on which model S30 you have several types of Brake Switch. The O-rings can leak. Sometimes leak through the switch o-ring. Its also behind a heat shield which makes it hard to get a good view. 2: proportioning valve can leak from the o-ring. Its located on the firewall on the 280Z and behind the diff on the 240Z 3: wheel cylinders. Check the inside of the wheels and the backing plate for fluid and while your there, check the hoses for cracks and age. 4: check the brake lines where they go through the rubber insulators along the chasis. The rubber is very old and hard. It can rub through the brake line. Goodluck finding your leak. Chas

Hi Guys, LeonV ran a thread a month or so ago about the differences in the 5 speeds trannys. Can't find it now on my phone. It didn't cover the reverse lock out (Gizmo), but there are enough good photos to see which one you have. The early model doesnt have the reverse lockt out which means the detents play a big roll keeping it out of reverse. If the popet springs pushing these ball checks are weak it will easily slide through to reverse. See POS#9 in the drawing I posted. I changed my last year and the gear lever feels like new. Pitty the rest of the tranny is crape:disappoin Chas

Hi Mike, If you are having problems hitting reverse, the spring in your photo is not the problem. I would look at the "Ball checks" and "Popet springs" in the middle section of the transmission. The two on the side can be removed while in the car. The one on top is not so easy. I have never tried to get them out while its still in the car. Maybe someone has done it and can share their experience? The springs are POS#9 in the drawing. The spring you are pointing to is used to centre the gear stick. If you push it left or right it will re-center using this spring. Its easy to remove with the transmission in the car. The bolt is a cap and the spring fits into a cap with a flat tab about 3mm wide, 16mm long. That tab fit in a V section which gives it the centering action. Chas Link to Carpartsmanual give a good overview of the springs and such. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionControl/5Speed/tabid/1718/Default.aspx

You can still get them from Nissan. 12 pieces; Valve oil seal. Nissan Part nr: 13207-81W00. Here they cost 3,00 euro/each Cheers Chas

Grats with your birthday. Cool gift

This is an interesting web utility to try different combo's. Engine Design Utility

wal280z (wayne) has done a wondefull job making a coloured wiring diagram of the 77 280Z. See link for the last revision. It will come in handy when looking for places to check the voltage. Chas http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/13131-color-wiring-diagram-280z-3.html#post430989

Good to hear you got the rubbing problem solved. MSA also stock Tokico springs, see link. Motorsport! Tokico Springs - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Chas

You can also post an ad in the classifieds on this site. I also look there first when looking for stuff. Goodluck parting out. Chas

Hi Bart, What Carl says is right. I have the same wheels and lug nuts on my Z. I can take a photo of the lug nut and wheel if you want? Cheers Chas

The PU bushings make the ride harder. They improved the handling, but that is not a truly fare judgement because the original bushes were old and worn. If you have things that rattle in the car, they will rattle alot more. I was on a rattle hunt for awhile after changing over. IMO it depends what you want most: better handling or comfort. Chas

Well said Carl. I couldnt have worded it better. Chas

A fresh coat of paint does wonders. Your making good progress. Chas

I second Pop's Z on the tyres. My 280Z was original bushings and steered like a boat, all over the place. The bushings were old and falling apart to such that the rack was coming loose. I opted for the PU bushings and the Tension rod kit. The ride is a little harder but it steers really well. Glad I went PU. Chas

Can you remember if there was any play in the anchor bolts for the lower control arms? Just thinking if there is play in the crossmember holes it could add extra chamber. Looks like it has quiet a bit on the photo. It might have been like it before you did the work, but because it sat so low the geometry corrected it enough so it wasnt that noticable. After doing my front suspension with PU bushes, lower ball joints and Tie rod ends, my chamber is very slightly positive. My strut towers measure 905mm from center hole to center hole. Thats the hole for the shock nut. Chas

Hi tamo, I used a 3/8" drive 17mm (single hex, 6 sided) deep socket with a uni-joint to get enough deflection. I could not use the impact type socket. They are too thick to get the last nut. See my link in post #3 for an example. Chas

Hi tamo, I had similar problems with mine when I removed my gearbox. I ended up buying a 17mm 3/8" drive deep socket and spaying the threads with tranny oil/acetone mix. It still wouldnt budge so I used the oxy/acetylene to heat the nuts to a dull red glow and then using the socket while they were still hot. Use gloves and dont grab the socket after doing, its hot. Goodluck Chas Northern Industrial 17mm Deep Socket - 3/8in. Drive - Amazon.com

Quick delivery:D. UPS is generally very fast, but can be expansive. I have used FedEx a lot through MSA and RockAuto. They take a couple of days longer via Paris, but are cheaper. Hope the shocks help with your vibration issues. Chas

If the engine is still original, it should be a N42 block with a N47 head. If thats the case, your not even half way there. That head is not suitable for any turbo. Its regarded as the least of all the Z heads due poor emmision chambers and the exhaust port emmision liners. The exhaust ports are also round and the standard turbo exhaust manifold uses square ports from the P90 head. If you want to go standard, you would be better off looking for an old 280zx and using it as a doner car. Use the complete engine, the EFI wiring harness and ECU. The EFI harness is apart from the body electrical. Goodluck Chas Edit: link to info about engines and modifying. It doesnt go into detail on turbos, but gives you an idea on the engines and what is out there. Datsun L-series ZCAR engine modifications

Im looking at your u-joint in the photo. I cant see any burrs. Looks like yours have snap rings on the inside holding the cup in place. I have seen these being made in a ford plant and looking at how mine are made, its the same procedure. In the factory they mount the 2 cups by pushing them in from the outside with a press. The operator fits the cups into the press (the press has magnets to hold them in place) places the spider in the nuckle and fits that into a jig. The press pushes both cups in and makes the burrs to hold them in place all in one movement. Then he turns it 90 degrees and fits the other knuckle and repeats the procedure. This is how the 280z joints are made, but the 240z might be before the procedure was used and still used the type using circlips on the inside. The type with the circlips is easy to service, but parts could be harder to find. You could revert to your idea of welding the newer type or maybe getting circlip grooves machined onto the cups on the new type. Third option would be to take up Captains offer, which would be the easiest. Chas

Only way is to drop the tank to get the passenger side shock out. While you are at it; check the fuel hoses. Banzai Motorworks (GF-17 & GF-18) The section that the bumper mounts to (curved like a banana) will fit through the oval hole in the body. The panel is spot welded and has 4 small brackets under it for extra support. You can cut the brackets and move the panel up and down which will show you where the spot welds are. Then it grinding them away or using a spot weld drill bit. Then the paint work.... Chas

Goodluck bargining:) If he knows anything about Zeds he will know they are worth alot.

The threads look pretty stuffed. The PO dun a good job making it useless. I would run a M8 x 1.5 die over it and buy a set of think machine washers. If you dont have a metric stock and die set you could take it to a machine shop and get them todo it. Chas