grannyknot

That's in lovely condition, even has the wiring harness cover on the P/S foot well. If the rest of the car is as nice as the photos he should get what he is asking.

There's not many of us left, my 12 year old flip phone works fine for the couple of calls I make a month, $15 for a top up card, hard to beat that.

Agree with Zed Head, the rebuild kits can be iffy and that's when you can find them. The aftermarket MC's are good quality at a very reasonable price.

It is considered a HVRP , high volume reduced pressure gun. Apparently most HVLP guns require 12-14 cfm from the compressor, mine tops out at 11.7cfm so this DeVilbiss FLG5 only requires 9.8cfm and comes with a 1.4 and 1.8 needles and caps. Should cover the use of 2k primmer, single stage, base and clear. Now I just have to learn how to paint

I can't offer much help but I've had that exact same problem, one side of the hood popped up 1/2" no matter what I did, never figured out but it is certainly worth checking the hinges for slop.

Thank you Santa.

So that is 115 or 903?

Gorgeous paint! So you changed from the stock colour?

So what are they selling, a garden hose?

I've always wanted to see inside that rear box section, it doesn't look too bad, are you going to try and save the outer skin of the valance?

This first thread is a must for anyone interested in modifying brakes, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38592-brake-balance-faq/ These next two threads are specifically on modifying 240z-280z brakes, you can see over the 11 yrs of the thread what people have tried, what worked, what didn't, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104910-brakes-who-is-running-what/ Now if you need to occasionally escape all the "fun" of Christmas, these threads will keep you busy.

Doing it for 30yrs doesn't necessarily it was done right, now before you get your back up let me try and explain it another way. Stock brakes are designed to have a balance of 70/30 front to back, you throw a set of Toyota 4 pot calipers up front and because of the larger displacement now you have a balance of 85/15, you take the car for a drive and slam on the brakes, the front of the car pitches down a lot more than it did before with the stock brakes and feels like the car is stopping faster, but it isn't, it's actually taking you longer to stop because the rear brakes aren't doing the right amount of work and the front brakes are overloaded. I've had 3 different configurations of "upgraded" brakes, rear discs, larger MC, larger booster, adjustable proportioning valve on my Z and I still can't lock up all 4 wheels at the same time. It took me a long time and a lot of money to realize that it is called a braking system for a reason. Each braking system is designed specifically for that car if you change any major component on a braking system you will throw the systems balance off.

Very slick, I like the frame. I can't believe I didn't take any pics but I made a template of the top wavy part out the same aluminum sheet I used for the splitter and cemented and bolted it in underneath with decorative smooth heads on them. Absolutely crazy that this much work needs to be done to make them work.

Sorry about that, I guess I could have just looked at the title of your thread.

Mario, is that blue paint code 307?

The shocks are new, I guess what I'm suggesting if you are interested is attaching the lower pivot points on some kind of a slider that can be clamped down with a bolt so you can trim the position if needed.

I've had my hood shocks working for a couple of years now and I wish I had included some kind of adjustment mechanism to just trim them up a bit, one side has a bit of slack. It's nothing really but I notice it.

Fusor 401, egar to see how that works, it's suppose to be great stuff but I haven't tried it yet.

Terrific, it seems like all of us have had to fab up something to keep those air dams from snow ploughing. How are you attaching the new support to the dam?

I've heard about those films but never had a chance to see them, absolute treat!

Wait to you see that same photo with all the gas lines installed, very sharp. Mark, that's your cue?

Nice, that engine won't be starving for air, maybe a bit more induction roar too?

Whoa, Santa was good to you, water based cleaners are great but meant to be used in a warm shop but you can still get good results with W&G remover and then methyl hydrate(wood alcohol) These pics are part of a long term project I'm playing with but they illustrate really clearly how much crap is on metal and why it is so easy to have problems with primer and paint. This a sheet of 20ga metal straight from the warehouse, the same square of metal was cleaned 3 times with that same cleaner until the cloth was coming away clean before moving on to the next cleaner, these pics are just the 1st wipe of 3. The cleaner used is listed under the pic. W&G remover Water based cleaner, Methyl Hydrate Sanded with 80 grit then W&G remover Water based cleaner Methyl Hydrate So you can see each one removes stuff the others can not remove. Methyl Hydrate flashes off the fastest of all of them that's why I always leave it as the last one before priming.

Pans first, firewall patch second, that allows you to match it perfectly and make it original.

It's easier to go back to the wreckers and get another one, there are millions of them, or you could weld it up and regrind it to the proper shape.