grannyknot

Looks great?

Lighting is key, you can't have too much light especially as your eyes get older. The floor painted a light colour really helps as well.

Thanks Charles, So the stock hole is the back one then.

Well, I had no intention on painting this car much less going down to bare metal but... here I am. Someone in the past filled in the antenna hole and drilled another one and then that was filled in as well, so which is the stock hole? I thought at first it was the front one but I don't remember cutting into the bodyline like that.

Well the description in listing that Can TechZ posted says " John Cook California Wide body kit " have a google and what comes back.

Very diplomatic.

197TZ, welcome to the forum, I wish you luck on this car, looks like a nice straight car to me. Even if the engine does need a rebuild that's not the end of the world, all the parts are available, I would appreciate it if you could post up what you hear from the owner, interested to hear what he has to say.

I'm waiting for the big reveal, but it sure looks like contamination to me or maybe a bad ground.

All in all I think you did a fantastic job, it is a better job than I have paid thousands for to so called pros. Well done, the center line of the front of the hood and the main body lines running down the sides look sharp and defined, did you do any build up of those lines with filler? If so would care to share the technique? Thanks.

Well if he has documents that prove it is a 249k car and lists it at 49 then yeah that's sleasy, but on a 50 yr old car all you really have is the odo, that's why you always see on auction sites " odometer reads xxxxxxx" Absolutely.

Looks great, could you post some contact info please, mine is crumbling as well. Thanks Edit, now I see it.

Guys, just because he lists it at 54,000 mi. doesn't mean he's a scammer, BaT does exactly the same thing, they list what is displayed on the odo. So there is also a pic of the hand written service book, that could have been written by the present owner or a previous owner who may have been mistaken. Unless you have a stack of shop invoices from day one with mileage recorded then how do you know what the engine really has? It certainly doesn't look like a quarter of a million mile car.

Yes it's important, it keeps the front from twisting,.

These guys have L&R wheel arches on sale for $57 a piece, Tabco wants $87 and Mill Supply is just down the road from Tabco, they must be getting them from Tabco, no one else makes them. https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/datsun/

Cliff, don't you think Meth would be cheaper?

You could possibly bend it up, flatten it a bit, it is keeping the oil pan gasket from getting too hot and burning but then I've seen many cars where that flange has rusted away without any problems.

I would be willing to bet most of those problems are bad grounds or corroded connectors which are pretty easy to fix. The no heat could be as simple as a bent push cable, it is a common problem. Of course if you haven't laid any money down yet, having to "replace the entire wiring harness" is a pretty good bargaining chip The wiring harnesses on these cars are not hard to access, if you go through every connector and ground one at a time with a can of Deoxit and a fine wire brush which is only a afternoons work I think you'll find most your gremlins would disappear. But the headlight circuit is one that really benefits from an upgrade kit, easy to install and not expensive. I wouldn't pass up an otherwise sound Z car for a few electrical faults.

Are you talking about the entire wiring harness for the car or a few modern updates like the fuse block, electronic flashers, headlight and alternator upgrades?

Your Z is an early car, yes? If so then the 2 holes on the P/S door were added by a P/O, I think Nissan didn't start putting passenger side mirrors until after 74 No, just started watching his vids the night you posted the link. I've gone through most of them now and have been emailing him with questions and he responds right away with lengthy explanations, cool guy.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103797-2-4-0-z-l-s-1/?page=3 Towards the bottom of this page there are some pretty good shots of that area.

If you are going to use stock mirrors you'll need the big hole for sure but can't remember which of the smaller holes are needed. @Patcon, Trev is great, he's a master.

What Mark said and get your other hand in there to steady the gun as well, you will have much more control. I hold the gun with my right hand and the fingers of the left are touching the work piece and the neck of the gun, that way you can speed up if the work is getting too hot or slow down and drive the weld deeper down for penetration. Glad it's working for you, you'll find your welds will start to improve a lot now.

You can make the cap a lower profile with a rubber mallet or hammer in a pinch. That was the only way I could get my Rota Grids to fit the front, they only need to go in about 3/16th" to clear the cap and not touch the axle.

This is from an 05/77 or earlier 280z, some slight differences. Pretty sure it is original as the PO did no other modifications.

The Scotch tape pulls it all together.