grannyknot

Duct tape, but you might loose points ?

If it is a very visible area then a butt would be prettier but it does come with a bit more risk and it will take longer with more care to make it look like it was never repaired. I find butt welding new sheet metal to old to be tricky some times as the old metal wants blow holes, in that case I start the weld on the new side and drag the bead to the old side, that helps prevent it. Laps welds I love, fast, easy, strong and if you are recreating a stock flange you can drill holes in the flange and plug weld for a good spot weld lookalike. You can also start with a lap joint but just tack welded then run a thin cutoff wheel down the center of the lap, remove the off cuts and have a very consistent distance between the panels and that makes butt welding much easier. WE WANT PICS

That's looking more 1ish than 2, hope you get every penny.

Yeah baby! Happy to look at your pics, completely agree with your FB comment.

Never leave it parked in the sun obviously, even when driving I leave the felt cover on it and only take it off for shows. I have done the vaseline and after you have wiped it clean as much as possible it leaves a beautiful lustre.

As Patcon says recreating that shallow hump that runs along the rail is a tough job, you can cheat by cutting a strip of 16ga sheet the same width of the hump and welding that in where the hump would be, it's not the same but will give you the added stiffness that is needed above the rail. Also, making that entire rear seat floor pan patch out of 16ga will add strength.

I think unfortunately it will only put a small dent in the black market sales. The different layers of Government are salivating at the thought of all the profits and tax revenue they are going to collect and have priced the legal stuff a 30-40% higher than black market price. If they really wanted to keep the cartels out of Canada (at least for pot) they would have priced it at par or slightly lower ... but they didn't. Even with that price premium the province where I live, Ontario racked up over 100,000 online sales in the first 24hrs, that's somewhere between $6-10 million in 1 day. That is a juicy Cash Cow.

There are edibles, they take longer to effect you but then they last longer too, but vaping is the answer to smoking, the weed isn't burned just heated so only the volatiles are released, there is no smoke.

Oh yeah, just like the good old days.

The CBD helps with anxiety, stress, better sleep, pain relief, sounds like fun to me

Well, grade 8, 9 and 10 after that my brain was never the same again.

Just ordered some legal weed online from my provincial government, it was kinda weird. The stuff I ordered has 0% THC and 14% CBD, so although I'll be smokin up I won't be getting stoned, had quite enough of that in Grade 10, besides that's what paint fumes are for.

But is does look pretty straight, certainly worth a look.

I'm pretty sure I found the cause of that rattle back in 2014, post #6, I chased that sound for a year and a half and even rebuilt the tranny and didn't clue in until I removed the shifter knob.

Is anyone volunteering to give the rest of us poor souls an update on Zcon every now and then?

Did Vintage Dashes also do the glove box door?

Hi Winston, welcome to the forum. That could be the rear output shaft seal on the transmission and/or someone pumped too much grease into that Ujoint and the grease is being flung off at high revs. Get under the car with a rag and clean the area and Ujoint so when you next check it you will get a very clearly which one it is. While you are under there open the fill hole on the transmission, if the fluid is at the right level it should start dripping out as soon as you remove the plug, if not fill the hole until it does. Replace the plug and take the car for a drive but make sure you get the drive line up to temp, a spirited drive. After the dive have another look. If it was the Ujoint you may find there area still clean as you cleaned off the excess, if so you are done. If it is the transmission seal that is leaking the driveshaft will need to be removed and the seal replaced.

Very nice! Get those into production. The cog teeth, do you own a milling machine?

Not so sure now, here is a 240 strut tube I have lying around, the lip looks like it is machined in. The new shock does fit snugly in the strut tube so maybe if you remove the raised rust bubbles inside that will do the trick.

That shouldn't be the case, maybe that rust on the inner walls is causing it or the outer tube of the original shock was rusted in and didn't come out. You can see from this pic of shock from a 77 280z the outer shell is very thin, just noticed that lip inside of your strut tube and thought that might be a possibility.

I'm not a pro but have dealt with a few stuck shocks, I have never seen a hole in the bottom of the strut tube like that before, maybe a PO did it to try and remove the original shock. The gland nuts can be rust welded into tube very badly sometimes, oil can be poured in, less than an oz, it surrounds the shock and helps in heat transfer to the outer tube. The manufactures of modern shocks say the oil isn't necessary anymore but the oil really does help out the next guy who has to remove that shock in the future. Heat and penetrant is the only way I have found to loosen that bond between the shock and tube but if you are removing a gas shock there is a danger of over heating the gas in the shock and BOOM. Some guys drill a small hole through the tube and shock to release the pressure then heat with flame, the hole in the tube can be welded up later or sealed with a compound.

The dreaded clunk can come from a few places but check the easy ones first, diff mount at front of the diff and the strap that goes over top, also the mustache bar rubber bushings. Get a crow bar in there lever them to see if there is easy movement.

Not a bad parts car though.

If you are a novice welder I would go with a lap weld and weld on both inside and underneath then seam sealer on both sides. 1/2" is plenty of overlap and you can use a zip screw (self tapping) to hold it all together, complete all your welds then remove zip screws and plug weld the holes. By the time you get to the end of the welding part of the resto you won't feel like a novice anymore. Are you using a wire feed Mig with gas or flux core?

@black gold man is the member you want to talk to. Congrats on your new toy and welcome to the forum. Hope you are going to update us with pics of the transformation back to original.