Gee

The hump in the bonnet is a lot higher. Maybe they decided not to do that for aerodynamic reasons, or does it just make it difficult to see out of the windscreen?? Still, it looks better than that "customised" zed that someone posted a few months ago with the two fellas names on the back..

Im ignorant.. is it the engine builder that is great, or the yellow car (or both)??? I'd like to know as I'm looking at doing a motor too... Just for interest's sake there was a dyno day for the NDSOC here in Melb the other day. Using a guesstimate formula of multiplying the RWHP x 1.3 they came up with 500HP at the flywheel for a 240 with a GTR motor in it. Now that would be fun... the whole issue then is chassis dynamics and traction!! I can post the figures of other cars if people are interested, i.e. L28's w &w/o webers, triple SU's etc etc.. I guess the issue highlighted above is that anyone with patience, half a clue and the manual can build a motor. What you pay for is the bonus of added power, longevity and the motor's ability to sustain a good thrashing..oh..and maybe a warranty (if that's important to you). Gareth

Alan, Totally off topic, but.. As you know many of the plastic interior bits here in Oz are getting harder and harder to find due to sun damage (and the stupid location of the choke lever - but that's another whinge) - seeing as the UK really doesn't get the same problems (i.e. you have rust, we have sun damage), are good condition interior parts like consoles and dashes readily available? I know there were never many zeds imported to the UK, however maybe many made it to the breakers yards due to rust before the trim "went". The reason I ask is that I still have family there and maybe it would be cheaper for them to send me the trim bits I need rather than chase up relative rarities here.. maybe the same could be said of parts here that may be hard to get in the UK... dunno, just a thought.

His advertisment was on www.ozdat.com : Nissan Option 1 gearbox Reluctant sale of genuine ex-works Option 1 L-series gearbox with slip yoke (not flange). Has been sitting in car in garage for last 8 years. Contact Cam on 0427 577 702 Price: POA Location: Melbourne Contact: Cam Jay Phone: 0427 577 702 (hours: All reasonable hours) Like I said this ad was a while ago so the box is now sold. The prefix for Melbourne from the UK is +613 & if you want me to go and look at anything, myself or someone here should be able to help as I am in the North of Victoria, whereas Gav is further South. Can you tell the technically inept (i.e me) what a slip yoke is as opposed to a flange??

...and the concourse fellas have just wet themselves.

Just talked to a guy that sold a genuine ex-works Option1 box. $3,500 ouch!!

I don't think it's complicated if I read you right.. basically 1st sits next to 3rd at the bottom of the pattern, so it goes.. 2 4 _|_| | | | 1 3 5 instead of.. 1 3 5 |_|_| | | 2 4 Bugger. That means mine is just a boring old 260 box then. Still worth changing over to Warners?

Have emailed you..

I was under the impression that all early 260 boxes were option 1 boxes here in Australia.. true?? Alan, I thought that the Warner synchros would actually make things faster? By the way, have you ever thought of making a list of Z books that people could collect? No doubt you have a large collection and the reference would be invaluable, especially if you were to comment on how good each book was... there might even be a few gaps people around the site could fill...

I have an option 1 box in my 240 which I am pretty sure has the Porsche type sychros in it. The synchros are stuffed and I have the option to replace with new Porsche synchros, or to butcher a 280 box (with the Warner synchros in it) to use parts from that to make a "better" box, i.e. with the option 1 ratios but with the better, Warner type synchros. My questions are, will the option 1+280 box be better than the standard option 1 box?? Will that difference be significant? I want to modify my motor soon to produce a bit more power, so will the "frankenstein" box be stronger??? Apparently all the race guys use this " option 1 + 280 box" setup, is this right??? HELP!!!!

I just replaced mine. The factory-formed walking-stick shaped hose wasn't available in Australia so I got a piece of copper tubing in a slightly smaller gauge than the fuel hose and waited outside a plumbers merchants. After a couple of minutes a plumber turned up in his van so I got him to bend the copper tubing into the bend (a U-shape). I then got a couple of pieces of the right gauge fuel hose, connecting it (via jubilee clips) to the ends of the copper pipe. It works fine and I haven't noticed any problems with it, I can also fill my tank right up with no problems. I had to drop the fuel tank to do it, but it really is an easy job and doesn't take that long. I did have to go to a specialist "hose" shop to get the fuel hose though..

I recently tried to put 260 seats in a 240 and the seat rails are different ('77 260 to '73 240).. There was no 280 in Australia, but I assume that 280 rails were like 260 ones, rather than 240.

No, he's over Greensborough way. That Candy Apple Red looks bloody nice though doesn't it? Thinking of getting your beast in that colour? I'm interested to hear what you have to say about different paint brands Cuong, I saw some House of Kolor stuff and it looked OK... that was to my eye though and I'm no pro..

I've been checking out places to have my zed done and they're basically not interested. It seems that quite a number are not panel beaters per se anymore, more like "panel replacers". Most gave me a similar answer to Cuong and said that the work would be a time filler between jobs as insurance claims are more profitable. I've had a friend just get his zed back after getting resprayed (here in Melb) after they said it would be done between jobs and it took them 17 weeks to finish. Another friend of mine ended up taking a panelbeater to the small claims after 18 months with little or no work done (and the deposit paid). I'm probably going to get my respray done by a guy who now works solely from home on the bodywork and then rents proper spray booths to do the gun work in 2 pac. He used to work for a panelbeater but found he could work from home and make more money. He doesn't advertise and you basically have to book in. Thing is, he said the turnaround would be about 2 weeks. The general price I was quoted from a panel shop was $4k. The price he quoted is more like $2k. I'll take plenty of photos of mine before and after and you can judge for yourselves. He was even happy for me to turn up at every stage of the process so I might do that too. I don't know the guy so you'll all see the results pretty much the same time I do.. if the work's good I'll be happy to refer. He's in Melb so I guess this info is most useful to people like Gav etc... I wouldn't do the bodywork myself, I've seen too many people stuff it up..

I guess it depends what you want. If one car is just gonna be something to get you around whilst you wait for the other one to be finished, why don't you consider getting rid of everything you don't need for the project car and get something else to get you around in the meantime? Surely you could pick up something reasonably cheap and near roadworthy? You might even be able to go the 240k route for a while.. Engine building is a bit of an art so you should really decide what you want out of it before you start. If you want a full fire-breathing monster I'd wait and speak to as many people as possible. If you are happy with something that is smoke-free but a little down on power, why don't you just chuck some new rings in something from pick-a-part? Just an idea. I guess it depends how many cars you want to end up with when this is all over. Good luck. I'm thinking of doing a motor too but I'm in between thoughts of building a 3.1 and just re-doing the original block so at least the no's match. Decisions, decisions...

As per your other thread.. the engine no is L24-190002. Any idea what the last no's were?

Following comments in Halz's thread I checked my zed and came up with: '73 240z HS30-103731 10/73 L24-190002 Silver (original colour) Red Interior (original colour) Auto - now a manual. KPH speedo I have delivery info if you care... Also have heaps on my brothers 77 2+2 and a friends 73 240, also silver with a red interior (now resprayed black).. As per my question there, does this make it one of the last Aussie 240's? Anyone know what the last number was???? Anyone else have an Aussie red interior? Heaps of so-called "specialists" have told me Australia never got the red interior trim!

Nice to see you finally got a car!! Hooray! I thought it was never going to happen! Anyway, just thought I'd follow that "last of the 240's" body number comment by checking mine.. HS30-103731 Build date 10/73 Silver Red Interior Auto - now a manual. Has indicators mounted on the bumper and has a kph speedo. Does this make mine one of the very last 240's here??

You're not speaking of Chemi-weld are you Mike?

PM me your address and I will photocopy my handbook for you Gav... if you want an original, try Motor Book World in Camberwell he might be able to get one for you. I think there may even be one for sale on ebay (australia) at the moment.. pricey though..

I meant this photo.. you can JUST see it. http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~satotats/zhp/zigzag2002/IMG_0001.JPG

Just wondering if the rollcage in that red ZG is in fact one of the works type cages that Alan mentioned in a quiz a few months ago...Alan??? BTW, the ZG I love is the greeny one that (I think) Gav has a photo of - it's truly AWESOME!

I read somewhere that it was all a crock of sh*t and was based around the science of a ship using a piece of metal suspended in the water.. Have you thought of applying some sort of waxoyl or fish oil instead?

I guess the header flange where it meets the head and a side shot to see if it's not a godawful 6 into 1 type arrangement. Here's hoping it is the same coz I need a header and extractors are BLOODY expensive new IMHO... unless someone has one??????

that would be ace!