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I realize that's about as clear as mud (I've been working on the 280). What I'm asking is would it be a desirable car and worth restoring?

I have a question for Mr Beck and any other early Z enthusiast. I'm going through a '77 280 and having the time of my life, drinking beer and working on the car. I'm kind of worried when I get down I'll miss the work more than enjoying the ride, plus I'm not quitting the beer so I need another project to keep out of the jailhouse. Is this car something I might pursue for a later project? I could store it in a barn of my Dad's then it would be a "barn find" for me later. It's very close to me, I guess I should go and check it out and snap some pictures of the interior and motor huh?

I remember this car from a few months ago. I guess he's going to pass it on. http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/2910508426.html If I had the extra garage space and could get a deal I'd go out on a limb and buy it. Looks ok I guess?

Thank You sscanf for the pictures. I've been reading and the opened up spray end reduces clogging supposedly and everything seems positive about them so I just ordered 6. Thanks again for everybody's input.

How cool is that! I'd go crazy pulling up next to an old Z that had some some smooth jazz bumping at a red light. You ever listen to Morphine? Such a good band but like alot of jazz guys the heroin took them down.

Well I guess I'm afflicted with that obsession now. Thanks for the information, I'll have some reading to do when I get in this afternoon.

And to think someone refered to him as a "shade tree mechanic". Now that's funny.

That would be great. I haven't ordered mine yet and would love to know if the spray end has a small hole or opened up like most of the pictures I've seen. If you could tell me how they look when you get them I'd be grateful. Thank You Cliff

I just had my N42 hot tanked and I've never read anything about a oil pressure valve. But that doesn't mean too much. I used a 5 gallon bucket with about 1" of lacquer thinner in it. All 6 pistons fit perfect, face down, so I let them soak overnight and then scrubbed them with a ScotchBrite pad. Worked great. Stored them in another 5 gal. bucket with a good soaking of WD-40 then put the lid on.

Yes, very cool. That's what I wanted to see and you nailed it! Thanks.

Yes it's the code stamped on there. I carried that single key to a locksmith and he cut an exact copy by those numbers, it was the only key that came with the car and I needed one to zip-tie under the rear bumper for a spare. Actually I asked him to grind off the edges of the new key as it was a little tough to turn in the old locks.

Here you are. It could be a dealer bought copy now that I see that in the owners manual

I'm can't say 100% sure but the man said it's the original. I don't think it's a copy. I'll get you a better picture when the sun comes up.

I think it would be easier to find Bigfoot than information on injectors. It's a conspiracy.

Here's an original '77 key. Taken with my phone so not so good, sorry. Under the big N it says Nissan Motors.

Thank You Fastwoman. Always great info from you.

Is that the FJ3 injector? It seems like they have quit making those by looking at all the online parts stores. Most have "only 3 left" or "wholesaler closeout". Do they have the small hole at the tip or the opened up one with the square with small hole at the tip? I realize you haven't seen them 1st hand so PLEASE let us know when you do. I've got to get mine and there's nothing but generic pictures online so once again I'm confused. Thanks.

I'm not sure of the "wrap around style" but I like these for the injection fittings. They are solid bands. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5-16%22-Automotive-Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamp-(4-Pack)-Autocraft_89016085-P_N3055_A%7CGRP2014_____

I can get these for about the same price. Standard Motor FJ3s off ebay $165 or FJ707Ts from rockauto for $169. I know Fastwoman uses the FJ3s and likes them. Anybody running the 707Ts?

I used lacquer thinner from a paint store, about $10 a gallon, and a heavy duty de-greaser from a bar-b-q restaurant I do maintenance for which was free. Scotch brite scouring pads (also from the restaurant) a round wire brush for a drill and alot of that elbow grease you speak of. Cleaned internal parts as well as intake, valve cover and suspension parts. Oh yeah get some of those toothbrush looking wire brushes out of the welding section at Lowes. Lacquer thinner for the really greasy then finished up with the degreaser and hot water. I'm happy with the results and carb cleaner is pretty much lacquer thinner but more expensive. My .01 cents worth of advice.

That new thread would be great. I thought about it so I'll watch yours. Thanks Captain!

Since mine is on an engine stand I would be able to do as Jeff suggest, install then remove then reinstall fairly easy. Captain Obvious's situation makes me think I wouldn't loose too much oil by removing the pump anyway. Thank you both for the information.

This is from member "steve91tt", "The OEM pump will move lots of oil. If it were me I'd clean it up and put it back on. If you find you don't have good oil pressure then swap it for another. The pump is easy to change with the motor in the car. If you are worried about oiling I would remove the distributor/oil pump drive shaft and turn the pump with a power drill. You should get lots of oil through each of the holes in the spray bar in the head. When I did this with mine I was surprised to see that oil was leaking out around the spray bar fittings thus reducing the oil that made it to the cam. I made a tool to turn the pump by cutting the handle off of a long flat blade screw driver. I picked one up at sears for a few bucks. Works great." Maybe he will see this and tell us because I'm not sure either. In Tom Monroe's book he notes that you must "time the oil pump" with the shaft's mark and a mark on the pump's tube. pages 134-136.

I am slowly putting everything back together and would like to eliminate any future headaches. It did keep a high RPM for about 5 seconds when I came to a stop. So it's going in the "extra parts box". Reading old post from SEARCH is nothing like 1st hand experience. Thank you all for your replies.

Could somebody that has taken their BCDD off tell me whether they like not having it or wish they hadn't removed it. Thanks for any replies.