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I intended on leaving an 1/8" sticking out and let that plate and the flywheel pull it down to mate with them. When I got through installing the main caps this is what I had, it went beyond the block surface. Will this be problem? Now would be a good time to correct it IMOP. Thanks for any replies.

I've cleaned up my stock '77 flywheel and was wondering how smoothe the friction side should be. The book I have says use "fine sandpaper" that could be 120 grit or 1000 grit. Should it feel like glass or paper? I have a new Exedy #6009 clutch kit. Thanks for any replys.

Welding shop wanted $40 per hour. I bought a siphon sandblast gun from sears.com for $16 and a bag of play sand from Lowes for $3.50 plus 2 hours of my time @$.50 per hour so less than $21 to do it myself. After pic is 1st then the before. I like it.

I tapped out a gasket and Sharpie-ed it then ground with dye grinder on my intake. I don't know about turning an N47's exhaust port into an N42 though.

I wonder if you could put it in syringe from a veternarian supply or wherever. Squirt it around everything. ?

My Harbor Freight engine stand is the orange one and the welds look like crap but with a handfull of flat washers the block tightend right up and has held up very well. One thing I didn't realize until I saw a post with one, is where the pipe sticks through the back it has about 4 or 6 holes, stick a 3/8" 12" extension through one and you've got a way to rotate your motor without touching the block and another thing was to tie that holding pin onto the stand or you'll be looking for it constantly.

This guy has some pretty good info and pictures. Scroll down to the middle and you'll see seats. http://dailydatsun.com/2012/05/

A pain in the a$$ for sure. I've gotten all but the "A" shaped control arms on each wheel and I think a break will be good. When I change out the struts I'll try and finish my box. The grease is the un-greasiest stuff I've ever seen, it's more like silicone and sticks to everything. I'm thinking of lubricating my fuel injector seals with it. I paid $159 for the later 280 complete set so $99 is a great deal. A small bottle jack was the most helpful tool for me.

That'd be great and much appreciated. I'll soon have all my ducks in a row and am going to take a few days off work (and turn my phone off) and put it all together. Harbor Freight has a leveler for $30 so I'm thinking basic motor on the stand then hoist it off, lower it to mount tranny then back up to working level and brace everything in place. Then put all the outside engine on and install with leveler. That's in my head so I'm anxious to see what others do.

Ok I'm re-thinking my thought process. I hope turnip greens will work, we don't eat much spinach around here, but a hamburger today.....

If I put my intake and header on while the engine is on a stand I think it would be better to install tranny 1st then drop the motor in. I've also read to remove the steering rod for header clearence. Thanks for the advice.

So which way was the best? I'm facing the same dilemma.

Is there going to be a Orange's Tech Tips?

I'd bet that the rubber seals come with those. My Standards did and they look exactly like the BWDs. Probably made at the same place. Look at the pictures on post #12 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45474.html.

I do what Fastwoman does. The towel wrap method.

You can get bunches of on-line coupons from Advanced. I just googled "advance auto coupon codes". The best one I found was $10 off every $25. I bought the stuff off their website then drove to the store and picked it up. Big discounts on-line.

I also used locktite on my exspansion plugs. You've begun a good tech tip again. Thanks!

What about the big bolt that holds the timing gear on the cam?

Would synthetic VR1 10w30 be better for a newly rebuilt motor or would the petroleum VR1? They both have the high zinc and phosphorus content. When I took the motor apart it was dark brown, almost black on the inside, crank, pistons and cam. Would synthetic do that to the motor?

I sure hope that they'll be at least close. Standards are from Greenville, South Carolina. Maybe they flow test every 10,001 or so. That would be a chance to take a smoke break.

I just got the upgraded hex head fuel injector screws from my local Nissan dealer for $0.61 each, times 12, $7.32. Part number 01121-02981. While your at it. They are like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Fuel-Injector-Holder-Bolt-Set-280Z-280ZX-1975-1983-NEW-/230791880629?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D310386387693%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8460149209738761374

I bought 6 FJ707T Standard Ignitions from rockauto for $163. They have a long hose with a cheap clamp but do come with both rubber seals, the big one and the small one. Still sitting on a shelf so I'm talking out of my butt. No expirence with the performance but they're nice looking. Smiley face jumping up and down.

Is that bad? Oil in cylinders. Or I guess your saying on the tops of the pistons where there shouldn't be oil.

You could drop it from an airplane. It'd top out at 120mph though.