siteunseen

IMO the blue thing is a shaving kit and the black one is a coffee maker.

Where you been?

Here's mine. I was too scared to mess with the one at the thermostat housing but changed the back one. I cut the old hard and brittle one off with a razor knife then the newer rubber was bendable to get it on.

The '78 has a 2 fuel, 1 inlet the other's the return line, and 1 vacuum nipple. Some people don't use the CSV. Maybe it's been deleted? Put up a picture so we can see. here's a '78 FPR, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=47132&cc=1209260 and a '77s, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=46963&cc=1209248 Does the driver's door plate date say it's a '77? Usually September is when they change to the next year on the title.

Yeah when you swap to the electronic dizzy it does away with the ballast resistor giving it 12V.

When you say a stock coil do you mean a stock ZX coil? or your stock 240 coil? There's a difference.

I've got an aluminium rail similar to those Pallnet makes. I ran the CSV hose off a "T" at the back. One side goes to the FPR, the other to the CSV.

I'm beginning to feel a little like Jeffery Dahmer, collecting heads. I've got an E31 3 E88s 1 N42 1 N47 and a P79 3 of those are on my cars. TOOT TOOT!

How long can a Z car sit? I have 2 that I'm neglecting a little bit while I'm working on my newest one. I charge their batteries once a month and crank them every weekend I just don't drive them. I'm worried about the fuel sitting still in the tank. I can't decide whether to fill the tank or leave it lower because I won't be driving them. I know this isn't the worst problem to have but still a worry to me. Thanks for any recomendations.

What's under the blue cover where the battery is supposed to be? Another 4 barrel? "That's some weird, wild stuff." YES!

Blue swapped his hot post to the outside to keep it from possibly sliding over and arcing on the inside of the fender. I'm sure others have done the same as it's not a bad idea come to think of it.

It's a '73 but the head has been serviced before. Also had the round mouth carbs installed when the head was done. It has one of those "heat buttons" siliconed on the end casting plug that has "Birmingham CHS- VOID IF REMOVED".

That header's too far gone. What would those bungs have been for? Thanks.

The end of the rainbow Nice clean early E88, small valves Odd looking ports on header runners

Another good source for 240's heater hose, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto I just looked at MSA's prices, a good bit cheaper! Plus when you put in your Member ID # from this forum you'll get a 10% discount, that'll help with their shipping fees.

Nice car. My air filter housing looks very similar maybe worse.

Yes and you have accumulated a substantial amount of Z points that are worth millions! Please allow us to transfer the funds into your bank. We will need your SS number, date of birth and your mothers maiden name. Gymmie from Nigeria.

I suffer from that too. I call it herpeZZZ.

I like it. If the motor is good, $2,500 would be fair. But since you can't drive it, offer $2,000 or less.

When I removed my EGR and BPT valve, I had to plug the hose coming off the bottom of the BCDD that ran to the BPT. Were you having similar problems before you removed that stuff?

Is that on Comcast or satellite in Alabama?

Thanks Dennis, I'd read about the reproduction strips but mine are in pretty good shape for now. I only broke off a 1/4" of that center post removing them and am hoping silicone dobbs will hold it in place until I am ready to do a full on restoration. After removing them I found that black paint on the red lenses. At 1st I thought it could be soot but it's paint. I don't see the need to re apply it as the strips will cover that area, but if it's needed I'll do it. OK, now I've found where Dr 240Z has his painted, didn't notice earlier when I read his write up, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/51111-240z-tail-light-refurbishment.html Thanks again Dr 240Z.

Thanks guys, that looks perfect. I think I was taking the "match striker" look too literal. 1 more question though. Mine have a black strip painted on the red plastic. Do I need to do this or is it something a previous owner did? What did you all do? Pictures below. Thanks for your help, Cliff.

Red Line 75/90 got the whine out of my '72. Whatever came out was orange like Sunkist.

Question on the Duplicolor #102 Graphite. I've sprayed my rear finisher 2 or 3 times. In between coats I've knocked the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. It looks so good dull I want to spray the matte clear over the lightly sanded Duplicolor. Would that be a mistake? It get's the metallic looking sparkles out but everything I've read says spray the matte straight on the Duplicolor. I'm guessing "it's up to you" will be the consensus but was hoping to hear someone else had done the same. Thanks for any experiences. Cliff