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I could use one in my FI 280 with a tunable CTS via the potentiometer I have then another in my carbed 240. OR figure a way to temporarily install just one for both cars? Or buy 2. More ideas than time.

These are cheaper than I thought, http://www.amazon.com/APSX-D2-Digital-Wideband-Controller/dp/B00NBYSTSC/ref=sr_1_sc_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1418901382&sr=8-7-spell&keywords=os+wideband+sensor+gauge&pebp=1418901406687

I don't know if this will help but when I rebuilt my combo switch the dash lights were tied into the switch. I had to look and see, it's a green wire with a white stripe. When I put 12v on the solder blob it lit up the dash.

Sticker was never removed on mine.

Wait until you see the front!

Finally got them back. Happy, Happy.

Those "nail head" connectors are hard to find. I opened up spade connectors and covered everything with liquid electrical tape, Shade Tree, but it worked out great.

I'll remind you guys about Z Con in Memphis, http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2015/ We have to meet up.

I'm in Northeast Alabama, Etowah County, 2 hours from the ATL either way. I-20 or 411 to I-75, better scenery on 411 to Cartersville. That ZX swap really woke my 240 up, the points were all screwed up and I know nothing about setting points. I bought a Crane PS 20 coil from amazon.com, the ZX dizzy needs the ZX coil and that Crane has the 1.5 OHMS, same as the ZX coil. Very happy with my set up.

That looks great! I've sealed 2 with Red-Kote, it's much easier and cheaper than the Por-15 sealer. $30 at local auto parts store, O'Reilly's, or you can get off e-bay.

Look at this and you'll see the mounts are different. You'll need a ZX mount. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Congratulations, it's a good feeling when things work out.

Welcome to Classic Zs. One of the best tricks I've learned from this forum, mix half Acetone and half ATF in a spray bottle for frozen bolts. It works great and is cheaper than anything you'll find. I'm so impatient I usually just wait 10 minutes or so and they'll break free but the best thing is to spray whatever the night before.

I was referring to the OP's comment on 2 vacuum lines, not the picture you posted. I read a lot on the internet and remembered reading this on ratsun.net, post #23 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40030-how-to-nissan-sentra-electronic-ignition-for-your-l-series/page-2

Me too. It worked great even without a helper and those communication headsets. Blue and his camera make my life easier almost daily. Now if he would make a tip page for the rest of my life's crap I'd be forever grateful.

It was an experience for sure, one I've never had or seen. The oil pan was so full of gas it overflowed the drain pan. The gas smell was so strong I got a little scared and got my hose pipe out in case of a fire. But I have a 2.4 on an engine stand. What about some paint remover and brass wire brushes on a drill? Xenon's had a formula for the paint on 240s hub caps but no luck on the Iron Crosses, http://www.xenons130.com/wheeldifferences.html

Thanks but I'm DONE! Maybe one day? My hands and fingers are barely able to type this message, I've got temporary Z Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. But it'll be perfect for holding a beer can.

I saw that and it seems it's for a sentra.

Use baking soda instead of an abrasive media like sand. It works great for removing paint without pitting aluminum. there's a youtube video on a homemade soda blaster. A trick I learned from another video is to put a small nut in the pick up tube to reduce the amount of soda coming out, less of a mess and less soda to buy. You can get 2 lbs for a dollar at Dollar General. Good Luck, Mr Solo! You'd be shocked at how bad those carbs were on that motor I got from you. They were flooding that motor to death, it's amazing it ran. But the gas cleaned up the cylinder head for me. Cliff

ZTherapy I owe you a big old THANK YOU! My carbs are smooth idling and accelerating. Don't have to use too much choke on start up either. They cleaned up nice and work like new, I can only guess as I was 3 years old when they were new. Thanks again, Cliff.

I did what you said and they came out good, enough for now. Cheap arse "chinese junk rant" stainless bolts had some casting marks I couldn't get rid of but like I said they look OK for now. The chrome bumpers look fantastic! Rear turned out as nice as the front after I got the bolts nice and shiny, thanks Roosiz. The 5/16" chrome ones from Jegs vs the right size 1/4" stainless after polishing:

Read through this, lots of pictures too. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/moustache/index.html

They're $70 for a pair, my mistake.

Oh my goodness! These are beautiful. Thank you mr patten.