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I figured that would be the answer to my question, thank you both. So that means the head has had the bigger valves for awhile. The intake seats do have a little magnetic pull though but nothing like the exhaust side. I guess beryllium bronze has enough tin in it to attract the magnet. Oh well, at least the steel seats are cheap but my machinist is gonna get sick of me quick. I've been smoothing all the sharp edges in the combustion chambers and I tried my hand at unshrouding the valves. Am I trashing an E31? I sure hope not.

Judging by the furniture I thought for sure it was in pristine condition, I was wrong.

I was thinking you had red interior. I looked through your gallery this morning and saw that it is black. That above picture is very tricky to my eyes, it looks like a red headliner and that is all I could focus on. Didn't pay one bit of attention to the seat's head rest.

Blue had the best idea for cleaning valves to me, chuck them into a drill. Low speed with a Scotch Brite pad and some cheap WD-40 knock off. Shines up like new. I did a few last night. I'm working on a head that's been sitting under my bed for 3 years, they have a varnish like crud around the sealing edges. Agreed! very satisfying process.

I knew those were there for a reason. When I put my header on I had to trim around the middle runners to get it to fit, glad I did.

I decided to take apart my E31 before I give it to the machinest, trying to save him some time. Well there was a couple of surprises. It looks like someone has already ground the area around the valve guides and they are steel, checked with a magnet. The intake valve seats are brass and the exhaust are steel. It had the shorter Ford valve seals which I ruined when I removed them, I'll get a new set. I've got a Felpro beside the Viton for height comparison. Should I get steel intake seats or leave the brass? I'm not going to the racetrack and when I run it up it'll only be quick and short. The police know me and where I live with my orange 240, small town. Thanks for any advice, Cliff.

That's a beautiful car you have there. I really like that color combination, reminds me of a late 60s 911 my uncle had when I was a kid (younger).

Maybe snugging the head bolts up would help until you're ready for pulling the head off? When I tore down my 2.4 a couple of weeks ago I was amazed at the difference in effort to remove some of them.

Funny thing about that is my Dad showed me that when I was a kid in the '70s. He was working in the yard and stirred up some yellow jackets that lived underground. They wore him out in about 30 seconds. A couple of hours later he got his revenge. That hole burned like JFKs Eternal Flame.

Okay, I'll rephrase. If I can take some measurements for you let me know. I have the OE '72 radiator hanging on a nail in my garage. I've installed the larger 280 radiator in my 240. Fits great although it's 2" lower to the ground but still not as low as my front spoiler.

Gasoline and styrofoam = redneck naypalm

Mine bolts to the radiator cross member, without any brackets. Here's the microfiche, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/Radiator/tabid/1592/Default.aspx If I can take some pictures for you let me know.

He should send him Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild " book, that'd be funny.

The inner gerotor gear is larger for the turbo pump, creating more volume/flow. It's a good upgrade.

The devils in the details. I'd think some young guys would work for free at Rebello Racing.

As much as you've done, I think you should drop the shaft. Not time to start jimmy rigging. When I did my 240 I had to drop the passengers side of the front sway bar. I loosened the drivers side bolts and zip-tied that end, put a small bottle jack on the passengers side and dropped it about a foot. But then again you could swap the wires and hear the thunder.

That last picture looks a lot like a "method" for checking 6 future employees. Hey Rob you're making me jealous you know? I can barely hike up and down my stairs. I've always pulled the coil wire off when adjusting valves. Works as a good theft deterrent too at long term parking lots.

That's Schneider Cams stuff. Its the 270-80F I've never been down this path before so I thought I try and stay on the cheaper side. Time will tell.

Still feeling like crap but this made me feel a little better. We've had some bad weather so UPS has been 2 days behind but Saturday around lunch I got my regrind and the components that go with it. I must say they ground it down to nothing! $400 for everything, regrind, springs and retainers and .190" lash pads.

I'll be anxiously waiting for the cause, if it's obvious, I put those in my '77 a couple of years ago as well. When you get the bad one off you can test it's flow on your workbench according to this video. Mine were Standard FJ707Ts with an open style pintle instead of the little hole.

I did disassemble a ZX with a 5 speed last summer so that could be the one with the circle. The triangle one is off a '72 4 speed I took apart last week, it was still in the pile of parts to be cleaned. Sorry for any confusion.

Here's the different plates. Automatic on the left. EDIT: I'm pretty sure, not 100% positive. I have a few and that was the only different looking one so I assumed it's off an automatic motor i bought a while back.

My J bolt hooks into one of the bottom front facing holes in the base like Dennis says. The top of the battery's bracket, opposite of the J bolt, screws into the firewall. All nice and tight. The only thing than I worry about is the draining tube comes loose from the bottom tray. I've used zip-ties before but this time I'll use to twisted wire. I'm scared it has ruined my fuel lines under there with rust.

I carry mine lunch on the Saturdays he has to work. They take turns, part numbers only two Saturdays, figure something out the other two from 30 year man.

That sounds like lingerie instead of car parts.