siteunseen

What about adding a tip extension on the muffler?

Retraction! Can't do squat from my phone. Locks up every time. 8^(

I put 2 four inch Pyles from walmart behind the headrest on my '77. Fit perfect and cost $30 or something close plus the oe front speaker, sounds good sitting in the garage but fire it up with the header and 2.5" exhaust from msa and I just as well sing to myself, "hold me closer, Tony Danza" by Elton John.

'96 Sentra for sale, $800 to a friend, $1,000 to a stranger. A man that sleeps in this heat has to make mortgage payments regardless. 8^) Refraction: car's being sold to my niece.

I'm fighting mine for covers right now! Spoiled rotten early on.

I learn more about our Country watching television on the 4th than 12 years in public schools. Don't blow your fingers off and let the dog inside tonight during the fireworks show.

I'm glad you posted that. I need to permanently set my potentiometer with meter. It's a volume knob that I've adjusted by the seat of my pants and the TEMP gauge. It's been laying in the passenger's floorboard for a couple of years now.

The repair article I found, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Possibly in the combination switch? I have know idea but they do power through there and arc a little when turned on causing carbon build up. That's why I'm limiting my night driving until I get Dave Erwins headlight upgrade.

I got in my 280 one night and found I had no dash lights. After reading a bunch of possible causes I came across this "How to Repair" for a 240Z which is pretty much the same. After I did this they were much brighter and the dimmer knob actually made a difference when I turned it. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Here's a picture of the top side, the carbon build up is under this.

The first two lobes should be like a V, not straight up, maybe 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock?

There's an article on flipping the carbon covered plates in the combo switch. I can post it tomorrow. It really brightened mine up.

Your right Jai, love is blind. I've been down that road before and that's why I said what I did, experience. I had an '81 911 that I loved and worked on constantly spending a life's savings. Sold it and bought a Camry then I was able to buy the Zs from cutting my losses with the Porsche. I apologize for speaking my mind but as stated above you could spend $1,500 at least on a good a/c for Red Bird. Hopefully a $100 worth of R-12a Red Tek will get you through the summer. I just got a Nissan Sentra with cold air for $500. It's not pretty but runs good and gets 35 MPG plus bone chilling air. Cheap grocery getters are out there. I don't see how you do it, I'm 47 and can hardly get out of mine. Working on it myself saves me money but I turn around and spend that on pain pills and stay in bed the next day.

When my dizzy is spinning with the motor at 2,500 rpms those weights are out? The vacuum advance should stay unhooked and plugged at high rpms too like setting initial timing at idle? I'm going to understand this one way or the other!

I'm thinking if you removed the float chamber lids you'd see something similar to mine when I first bought the car. The floats should sit fairly level or parallel with the lids. The opposite of my picture.

So simply put, set the initial to 17 degrees at 750 RPMs. Since I have 8.5 weights, add 17 for a total of 34 degrees on my dial back light. At 2,500 RPMs with the light set to 34 I should adjust the distributor until the big notch (TDC) on the pulley lines up with the pointer, 0 degrees. That would give me total advance of 34. Drive it and see how it performs? What should the vacuum pull on the front carb be at 2,500 RPM? I'll hook my vacuum gauge up and get some numbers and report back. Thanks guys

It's not a problem with the fuses, I had a bad alternator. I like the 280 fuse panel better than the 240, more fuses that single out more circuits. When that one fuse blew on my 240 it killed just about everything the key activates. Your's will be fine now that it has a fuse in there. The fusible links in the engine bay is a whole other story. Lot's of people upgrade those. You can't buy one at the local 7-11 when they melt.

I was going off my 240. When I had a bad alternator in there it popped that fuse as soon as I turned the key. I read it was back charging through the ignition circuit and burning that fuse. On a 240 it's a single 20 amp fuse. Glad you fixed it. 8^)

Google images SUs too for reference or go to Ztherapy. Com for more images. I about to go out dancin' and chasing thongs. I'm no help.

Read this thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/

I'm sorry I can't help you more now, I'm using my phone. I can help better in the morning when I have my laptop. Maybe someone can chime in before then? The nozzles are at the very bottom of the carbs and should move move freely with the throttle linkage. 2.5 turns counter clockwise is a base starting point. Mine run best at three to the 3.5 turns down. Let me get back to this in the morning, I'm enjoying some cold beers at the moment.

Set the valve clearance also.

Make sure the nozzles are moving freely. 2.5 turns down to start with. Don't get pissed but make sure the flatter side side of the valve cover gasket is right, other way and you'll have a vacuum leak.

David Copperfield of Z parts. 8^)

That's the IGN I beleive, 20 amp. What the hell is a caliberado? Curious on that, not familiar with the word. Me speakie no spanish.