siteunseen

I would remove the console then the rubber boot around the shifter. Lube everything down in that area where the shifter's ball end fits into that plastic cup. If that doesn't help you might could replace the worn out pin bushings with bronze. here's some stuff to look at/read over. Good luck! http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html The area where the shifter goes into the transmission that needs to be lubed up. If that plastic cup on the shifter's end is worn out it won't allow the shifter to push the shift rods into position.

Ran 5 gallons through mine today without any problems/noises whatsoever. I think I can close the book on this one and drive it without worry. Thanks for everybody's help.

I bet his word roof was meant to be hood. That would be a good prank phone call.

Like Zed Head says it connects to the positive side.

If you could get them both out of your shoes. That's my way of joking you know. My balls have road rash from the low drupe I'm cursed with. Tea bags are more like well buckets for me.

Honestly I didn't shop prices. My agent had Classic Collectors by Infinity and quoted that. They allowed a stated value and I was satisfied with the policy so I chose that. My term ends on 10-31-16 so I didn't really have time to compare. Maybe next year I can do better? My agent is really sweet and CUTE! So I go with what she suggest. I know Diseazed thinks highly of Hagerty and he's my Z Hero so I'll try and get them next year.

I wonder why they aren't accredited with the better business bureau? I hope I never have to deal with them but it makes me wonder why. I could hire one of the many attorneys available. Thank you for your input, I'll read up on that. Could be a marketing ploy by Hagerty?

Halloween is near. Costume it up, maybe you'll win the best category and some Kisses (Hershey).

I drilled mine then retapped it to a larger size, 12x1.75 I think. It is for the Nissan Titan pickup. No harm other than a little more noise back there. Mine was broken for a year or so. I drilled the broken stud then used one of those Extractor bits. There is such a difference in the size you can waller it out without any worry. I used a propane torch too when i got ready to back it out.

Thank you! Good news for us that like to do our own work on a budget. Way to go @Blue

Today I insured my '72 with Classic Collectors insurance by Infinity for $129 a year. $500 deductible on comprehensive, collision and uninsured motorist with a stated value of $20,000. 6,000 miles per year total, I MAY put 2 to 3,000 on it in one year. Very pleased with this. My agent didn't offer Hagerty's but I don't see how there could be much difference. Tomorrow I'm going to add my '77 and hopefully get a multiple car discount. With the vintage tags at $10 each for life and this incredibly low rate I can't imagine selling either one now. 280 for the highway, 240 for around town.

I think a mustache would be period correct.

Talk about unpeeling an onion, WOW! You have a tremendous project going on but by the looks of it you are the right person to tackle it. I'm not about to go poking around on mine after seeing this. Thanks for the reality check.

I wonder why they vented the hoods in '77? I personally don't like water getting in my engine bay like it does through those. Mine are loose too and sorta float/wiggle when I'm speeding.

So true! at least down here. I had a 325is back in the 90s with with driving lights that came on with the headlights. After 2 "refusal to blow" visits to the the jailhouse I cut the wires to those babys.

It seems like the one I bought from Futofab may have touched a little in the center too. I'm thinking I had to do something extra with those rear mount brackets like maybe put an extra washer under their bolts to get the bumper off the body. It's super close now, like paper thin, but not touching. My biggest headache was the chrome carriage bolts I had to source myself. All the ones made for chrome bumpers were either too big or too small. Rossi'sZ told me he used stainless and polished them to a shine with polish and a buffing wheel. Worked great.

Easy way to check is pull up the E brake. If it comes up without resistance your problem is the rears. I rebuilt my brake system at each wheel and then shortly thereafter the booster took a crap.

It's a great feeling isn't it.

I was pleased with these stainless steel manifold studs from zcardepot.com, no more rusty studs. https://zcardepot.com/stainless-steel-bolt-kits/engine-kits/intake-and-exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit.html

You guys have reminded me of something I need to do. Tom Monroe also says to retorque the head bolts as added insurance but do it when the motor is cold, pg. 155.

For a good shine I've used Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze on dull cars. Read the reviews from amazon customers, 5 stars. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

Can I use just the outer OE valve spring to get the wipe pattern right? Honsowetz's book uses special "set up springs" that I don't have but I would like the least resistance I can get while doing this. All my lash pads are .190s and I figure I'll do a lot of filing to get them right. Any experience on which to use while doing this would be appreciated. Thanks, Cliff

if it's making a clunking noise it could be a worn out differential mount. They are available from many places, I like zcardepot.com myself. If it's a whining noise you should try replacing the old fluid with new. I used RedLine in mine and it really helped quieten it down.

Sorry to overwhelm a new member Cooper but essentially what we're saying is you should drop the transmission first, get the collar off and see what you have before ordering your clutch kit. Here's something that shows the 92mm measurement they're talking about. Best of luck with your 240Z, they are amazing cars.

I guess that's what it is, easier marketing but why the price difference? Maybe the tube of lube is taller or shorter? EDIT: I didn't get a new collar with my kits.