Captain Obvious

I'm not sure I would want to stretch a 115 wide tire out onto a five inch wide rim. My thoughts on the matter while I was in the thick of it: "I didn't move the space saver tire over to the 280 original spare wheel because I was worried that the 280 spare wheel was too wide. The space saver tire was originally on a four inch wide rim and the original 280 spare wheel is five inches wide. I wasn't comfortable stretching that narrow tire out to a five inch wide rim. I think you could use a 4.5 inch wide rim, but since I was in there messing around anyway, I took the opportunity to make it as narrow as possible"

Glad to help, and hope you find a cool looking blank for your car!

Yeah, I found that wiki page as well and there's a lot of good info on there. But about your key blank and trying to use one of those titanium keys... Those TI keys are all for the double sided cut and there's no way they will fit your cylinder. Regardless which blank your lock uses, it's a single side cut and those TI blanks are for the newer double side cut. When they describe blanks, they look at the cross section profile from the part you hold in your fingers (they call it the "bow"). And if I modify your pic and flip it around so you are looking at that profile from the bow, it looks like this: And that still looks like an X1 / MZ12 or DA20 / D80K.to me.

You know what they say about assumptions...

If you already bought that lock from ZCD and have a pair of keys, then if you would take a pic of one of the keys head on, it could help in confirming the identification.

MH77280Z, Good luck finding a 195/40/14. I took a quick look at tirerack for that size (or something else that might work), and came up with nothing. Good luck with the search. And note that the project I went through becomes easier if you are willing to deal with a space saver that will only fit on the rear. If you're willing to deal with that, then you can find spares right out of the junkyard that would work. I went the extra mile with swapping rims around, but if you don't want to do that, there are ways around it.

Ghetto?? What are you talking about???

Yeah, I know. Photobucket sucks. Some of them have been reloaded in the second thread.

I'm no locksmith, but those look like X1 / MZ12 or DA20 / D80K. Hard to tell without an end on shot showing the profile. Out of curiosity... What is it you're trying to do? If you buy that lock, don't you get keys with it?

Not really sure what you're asking, but if it's "has anyone managed to fit an always inflated spare into a 77-78 Z?" then the answer is "Yes." https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55424-always-inflated-mini-donut-spare-for-7778/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61903-280z-space-saver-spare-tire-replacement/

Thinking about it more, I'm betting that you won't be able to test much of the turbo capability without a load on the engine. Bottom whatever... Just don't blow your motor up!

Glad to hear the cheap kit worked. And I don't think I would trust thread lock either due to the heat. So do you have the turbo control system? Based on the different distributor, I assume they mess with the ignition timing too? You may be able to account for fuel using the NA system, but unless you're gonna move the distributor with one hand and diddle the pot with the other....

I'd be a little careful with this. The original actuator tip was hardened, heat treated. I'm not exactly what you meant about making a new bolt, but if you started with an off the shelf bolt made out of mystery metal, I'd be a concerned.

Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end. And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm. Here's some pics that might help:

That type of cast iron is usually easy to drill and thread. Abrasive to tools, but if you're only doing one of them, not a big deal. So you have a lathe now, right? Make your own insert. Have you tried threading on the lathe yet?

Well that's certainly not the smoking gun we were looking for. Wish I could provide more help on figuring out exactly what's going on.

Woot!! Those multiple failure point situations can get really tough! Glad you finally got it!!

Hmmm... That's about two thousandths. With the mass of the crankshaft and the ooze of the assembly lube, I don't think you would be able to detect that by hand and eye. You're going to have to use an indicator and a pry bar. If the crank spins free and smooth, you're probably fine.

Man, I hate unexplained things... I sure hope you figure out what's going on with those readings. Do you know what it is that the Swedish enlarger pump is looking for? What chemical(s) is it supposed to detect?

Glad to help. Hope it's as simple as a bad flasher. That would be easy!

This sounds like another fantastic opportunity for you to film yourself doing something entertaining. Pics or it didn't happen!!

Haha!! I'm thinking maybe you should be the one that's worried!!

Wait... Are you saying the noise went away and it's all good now?

I wouldn't worry about the grease holes. They'll be sealed up by the gasket on the mounting face. And if you don't tell anyone about them, nobody will ever know. And about that hole for the ported vacuum... If one were to assume that the previous owner drilled the original vacuum nipple out of the carb body, and did it "concentric to the original center of the hole", then one could make an insert with the appropriate diameter small hole through it*. Press or loctite it in place and very carefully file the inside flush with the curved surface of the carb throat. I could do it. At least if the center line of the enlarged hole is in the same location as the center line of the original port hole. If they ham handed the removal of the original tube and drilled off center or something, then the location of the new port will be mis-located accordingly. * Or get extremely lucky and find some piece of tubing off the shelf that already has the correct ID and OD. Extremely lucky....

To provide additional detail to the above... It sounds like your flasher unit is not making a good solid connection across it. It's a low enough resistance to provide 12V at the turn signal switch when the switch is in the center position (driving nothing). But as soon as you move the turn signal lever up or down, the low resistance of the signal bulbs drags the voltage on the white wire out of the flasher down to zero. I'm thinking your flasher is fubar. Or the connections on the base are corroded. Something like that. I assume you already checked the connector condition right there at the turn signal switch? Everything all nice and clean and shiny?