Captain Obvious

Yeah, the AGC series will be perfect. So if I take a guess as to why you were looking for SFE10's in the first place, I would surmise that you pulled the old fuses out of the fuse block and found a lot of SFE20's in there. Thinking that the SFE series was the correct fuse series, you then went looking for SFE10's to replace some of the lower value positions? If that's the case, then you got caught by that simple trick that at the 20A rating, the SFE and the AGC series are the same length. Where's my dead horse....

Here's some info from Littelfuse: http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/automotive-aftermarket/glass-fuses/littelfuse_aftermarket_glass.pdf

Is the original recommended fuse really from the SFE series? The reason I ask is that the thing that makes the SFE series interesting is that the fuse lengths increase as the amperage rating goes up. I haven't researched it, but my assumption is that it's a safety thing with the intent that you can't fit a higher amp fuse into a spot where a lower one belongs because the body will be too long. So what's the point? The point is that I thought all the Z fuses were the same length, and if they're using the SFE series, then they will all be different lengths. At 20A, the SFE series and the AGC series are the same length meaning that an SFE20 and an AGC20 are the same length. And the AGC series doesn't do the same thing with the lengths that the SFE series does. An AGC20 is the same length as an AGC10.

I haven't made any reservations yet, but I'm intending to make it. Hoping to have my car there as well, although I'm not planning to enter it into any of the show portion. I hope we can get a gaggle together of people like we did in Memphis. That was a great time.

Cool. Another crisis averted. I have so little faith in the rebuilt stuff these days. How does something like you had get out of the rebuilder's shop? Should never happen.

That's not ground on the F connection. That's ground on one of the bolts that hold the two halves of the alternator together. The "F" label refers to the connection in the T connector, not that bolt head. They just put the label very close to the bolt head so you're thinking it' related. It' not. That bolt head is ground, but ground should really be connected to the "E" screw though.

Do you have any pics of how you did the butt section heater?

Well I'm no expert on the used wheel market, but since nobody else chimed in, I'll relay my experience. I frequently see five slot wheels like that for maybe $200 or less for a set of four. Once or twice as low as $100 for a set. So it might be regional, but I think you could find (or sell) a decent (missing center caps, but no curb rash) set for around $200?

Those seats look awesome. So are there seat heaters in the butt portion too, or just the back?

Worst one I've seen is behind the rear interior panels over by the fuel expansion tank and the other side by the speaker. The pee from the little bastages rotted out the wheel arches in my ol' 260.

Haha! Yeah, I know. LIttle embarrassing. I try to help out on stuff, and the only pics I have are how NOT to do it. I should be able to put a "don't do this" on the pics... Give me a little bit.

Hi Mike, Unfortunately, I don't have the pics to re-create it. The only pics I have are of the INCORRECT orientation. By the time I figured out the correct details I was in too much of a hurry to get my car back together to take pics. I've got pics of the Delco kit, but the only pics I have of the bushings installed on a rod are the wrong way. so I can recreate the rest of it, but not the installed pics.

Exactly. If your C-7 and/or C-8 were green with corrosion, then that can certainly cause the problems you're having. I cleaned both of mine up really well, added some contact cleaner/lube, tightened up the contacts a tiny bit, and I've been happy since. I've made mention about it before, but here's a basic Classic Z Car repair axiom... "You get a spare moment, clean some connectors."

That perforated vinyl material looks very nice. As for how it's attached to the roof, I think it might depend on the year? I know the pillar designs are different depending on the year, but I'm not sure about the headliner itself. "you don't want to have both hands pushing up to hold things in place, your head stuck to a glue patch and your foot caught under the clutch pedal and your tool an inch just out of your grasp..." Clearly the voce of experience!

Yeah, the headliners I recovered had "head dents" upwards creating two large recessed areas above the passengers heads. The vinyl was a pain to stretch down into those recesses without wrinkles. The headliner material was much more forgiving. I'm not sure I think it would look better in ALL cars, but I definitely think vinyl would look better in a Z. Then again, how often do you look up in the car?

Glad you didn't spend money on that. I've been through the same thing with other people selling used wheels. Many people don't know how to measure them and advertise incorrect sizes. The width is measured on the inside of the wheel where the tire bead seals to the rim. In general, the wheel lip thickness is "about" a half inch thick per side, so even if the only measurement you have access to is the outside dimension, you can usually infer about an inch narrower than that because of the lip thickness. And as for the height... I use the middle of the lip where the tire bead makes contact. I'm not positive if that's the official measurement location or it it's really supposed to be the diameter of the hole in the center as you said, but those two locations result in measurements that are close enough that you can't make a mistake. The solutions are quantized.

Those are 14x7.

I've done two headliners in my past, both on the same kind of car (but not a Z). I did one in vinyl, and the other in traditional foam backed headliner fabric. In the end, I think the vinyl looked much better, but the foam backed headliner material is way easier to work with. Much stretchier and more forgiving. In fact, all of my reluctance to work with vinyl stems from that job.

Crap. Forgot about this one. This thread was recently referenced in a tension rod question and I wanted to change something I said above... I thought the proper way to install the bushings was with the thick side facing the frame and the thin sides towards the washers, and after further review, I do not believe that is correct. I believe the correct orientation is with the thin side towards the frame and the thick side towards the washer(s). I had even taken my bushings back out and reversed them but didn't take any new pics. At this point, I think this thread promotes incorrect info and leads to more confusion than assistance... @MikeIs there a way to delete the whole thing?

For diagnostic testing, you can completely eliminate the hazard switch from the system. I did this once or twice to drive around with no center console while still having functional turn signals. Goes like this... There are two large connectors near the passengers feet that connect to the console. On the wiring diagram, they are C-7 and C-8. The one in question is C-7 and it contains the supply and return wires that lead to the hazard switch. Unfortunately, C-7 and C-8 are both black, so I can't use color to distinguish between the two, but for ID, C-7 is a ten cavity shell and has all (or almost all?) locations populated, while the other connector C-8 only has maybe five of it's cavities populated. That should be enough info to identify C-7. Disconnect C-7. You should be able to do that just by pulling the rug down. You don't need to take the console out. Just move the rug out of the way. On the car side of C-7 (not the console side, but the car side) jumper the green/yellow to the green no stripe. Note that there are two green wires, and the one you want to jumper to is on the same side of the connector as the green/yellow. By disconnecting C-7 and jumpering those two locations together, your turn signals should be getting full power even with the hazard switch completely removed from the system. Should help narrow down the fault location. Here's a pic showing what to jumper: I've had problems in the past with corrosion creating intermittent and poor connections on C-7 and C-8. I suspect it was instigated by moisture from a heater core leak sometime in the past before I owned the car. I cleaned up all the contacts in both those connectors and my problems went away.

I don't know anything about the ZX axles, but I can provide a little input about greasing. I think a zerk would be overkill, and I found from experience that you can actually over-grease the housing. First time I did bearings, I packed the entire inside of the housing with grease. I even used a long needle and injected grease into the recess after the whole thing was together until it oozed out from between the bearing balls. It was "stuffed full". Completely full. It was a mistake. It was very very stiff and hard to rotate. So stiff, in fact, that I ended up taking it apart again and removing most of the grease. If you look at the amount of grease they put in there originally, you'll see that they didn't "stuff the housing full" of grease. I don't know if my experience is typical, but I packed the balls and added a little more for good measure and called it a day.

The wire colors on the side of the connector you are probing aren't the same as they are on the other side, and it's the OTHER side that are called out on the wiring diagram. In other words, the wire colors change at that connector and the colors on the side you're probing are not what are shown on the diagram. That can be very confusing. I believe that green wire you are probing is actually white on the other side of the connector, and is the supply side to the turn signals. The two white wires to the right of that green (white/red and white/black) are the two outputs from the turn signal switch. And again... the colors change at the connector to green/red and green/black. Confusing. So for the first mystery... Yes. That green wire (on that side of that connector) should go hot when the key is in the ON position, and it is supposed to supply power to the turn signals. For the second mystery... When you turn a signal on, that wire goes to zero. The reason is that green wire is being weakly pulled up to a little over 10 volts. So weakly in fact, that when you apply the load of a couple very low resistance light bulb filaments, it drags that wire to zero. That green wire should be getting pulled to a healthy battery voltage, and yours is not. Could be a weak battery, a bad flasher, or a poor connection anywhere between the battery and where you're probing. My money is on a bad connection somewhere or a continued problem with the hazard switch. Knowing nothing else, I would start at the large(ish) connectors that lead to the console and supply power to and from the hazard switch. (Connector C-7)

Something else I see on those pics is that he removed the rubber bumperettes from the front. I wonder what he did about the holes... I wonder if he welded them shut and had the bumper re-chromed, or if he just used something like a chromed headed carriage bolt to fill the hole. And I would like to know what he did about the rubber ends. If he made those from a mold, or cut and bonded the originals. I've done a little silicone molding, but I don't think I'm up to the task of something that large. rossiz, I was thinking the exact same thing. I think the 280 bumpers would add a lot more protection. Still nothing compared to todays energy absorbing designs, but certainly a lot more protection than the "only for show" 240 style.

Yeah, I really like the look of the front. I think It retains the soul of the 280 while improving the lines. I'm not so sure about the back though. I like the front more than the back.

Vacccuuuuuuuum Taaaaaaaaabble... Build it. You know you want to.