Captain Obvious

Audio gear was also part of what I was messing around with. I made a replacement piece for in front of the strut towers (so I didn't have to chop holes in my original one) and put a pair of 6x9's in there. Glued on some cheap under-covering to try to deaden the boom. Sounds like arse. I have kung-fu in some areas, but fidelity isn't one of them. Instead, now I'm currently running a pair of pre-packaged tuned port speakers that originally came from a small home stereo system. Not great, but better than what I made myself. I'm the guy who puts your amp back together after you blow it up, but someone else does the installs.

Onions. Old Z cars are like onions. Peel them back in layers. So why is it that you're making a new rear deck? Did you not have one before? I'm currently messing around with some changes to mine. I've decided that I want to reclaim some of the wasted space back there.

There's a big difference between mostly done and all done. Mostly done is slightly un-done.

" after i get done with the z car " Huh? That doesn't make any sense at all...

To back up a little and add to Zed Head's info above... It's likely that it's got nothing at all to do with the throw out bearing. Any time the engine is running and your foot does NOT have the clutch pedal pressed in, the input shaft as well as the countershaft of the transmission are spinning. Point is... When your not pushing the clutch in, those two shafts are spinning and it's likely that the whining you're hearing is from the input shaft bearing, or the countershaft bearing, not the throw out bearing.

Makes perfect sense. Now go replace the rest of your droopy filaments. I am Carnac the Magnificent, and I approve this message.

Yeah, the AGC series will be perfect. So if I take a guess as to why you were looking for SFE10's in the first place, I would surmise that you pulled the old fuses out of the fuse block and found a lot of SFE20's in there. Thinking that the SFE series was the correct fuse series, you then went looking for SFE10's to replace some of the lower value positions? If that's the case, then you got caught by that simple trick that at the 20A rating, the SFE and the AGC series are the same length. Where's my dead horse....

Here's some info from Littelfuse: http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/automotive-aftermarket/glass-fuses/littelfuse_aftermarket_glass.pdf

Is the original recommended fuse really from the SFE series? The reason I ask is that the thing that makes the SFE series interesting is that the fuse lengths increase as the amperage rating goes up. I haven't researched it, but my assumption is that it's a safety thing with the intent that you can't fit a higher amp fuse into a spot where a lower one belongs because the body will be too long. So what's the point? The point is that I thought all the Z fuses were the same length, and if they're using the SFE series, then they will all be different lengths. At 20A, the SFE series and the AGC series are the same length meaning that an SFE20 and an AGC20 are the same length. And the AGC series doesn't do the same thing with the lengths that the SFE series does. An AGC20 is the same length as an AGC10.

I haven't made any reservations yet, but I'm intending to make it. Hoping to have my car there as well, although I'm not planning to enter it into any of the show portion. I hope we can get a gaggle together of people like we did in Memphis. That was a great time.

Cool. Another crisis averted. I have so little faith in the rebuilt stuff these days. How does something like you had get out of the rebuilder's shop? Should never happen.

That's not ground on the F connection. That's ground on one of the bolts that hold the two halves of the alternator together. The "F" label refers to the connection in the T connector, not that bolt head. They just put the label very close to the bolt head so you're thinking it' related. It' not. That bolt head is ground, but ground should really be connected to the "E" screw though.

Do you have any pics of how you did the butt section heater?

Well I'm no expert on the used wheel market, but since nobody else chimed in, I'll relay my experience. I frequently see five slot wheels like that for maybe $200 or less for a set of four. Once or twice as low as $100 for a set. So it might be regional, but I think you could find (or sell) a decent (missing center caps, but no curb rash) set for around $200?

Those seats look awesome. So are there seat heaters in the butt portion too, or just the back?

Worst one I've seen is behind the rear interior panels over by the fuel expansion tank and the other side by the speaker. The pee from the little bastages rotted out the wheel arches in my ol' 260.

Haha! Yeah, I know. LIttle embarrassing. I try to help out on stuff, and the only pics I have are how NOT to do it. I should be able to put a "don't do this" on the pics... Give me a little bit.

Hi Mike, Unfortunately, I don't have the pics to re-create it. The only pics I have are of the INCORRECT orientation. By the time I figured out the correct details I was in too much of a hurry to get my car back together to take pics. I've got pics of the Delco kit, but the only pics I have of the bushings installed on a rod are the wrong way. so I can recreate the rest of it, but not the installed pics.

Exactly. If your C-7 and/or C-8 were green with corrosion, then that can certainly cause the problems you're having. I cleaned both of mine up really well, added some contact cleaner/lube, tightened up the contacts a tiny bit, and I've been happy since. I've made mention about it before, but here's a basic Classic Z Car repair axiom... "You get a spare moment, clean some connectors."

That perforated vinyl material looks very nice. As for how it's attached to the roof, I think it might depend on the year? I know the pillar designs are different depending on the year, but I'm not sure about the headliner itself. "you don't want to have both hands pushing up to hold things in place, your head stuck to a glue patch and your foot caught under the clutch pedal and your tool an inch just out of your grasp..." Clearly the voce of experience!

Yeah, the headliners I recovered had "head dents" upwards creating two large recessed areas above the passengers heads. The vinyl was a pain to stretch down into those recesses without wrinkles. The headliner material was much more forgiving. I'm not sure I think it would look better in ALL cars, but I definitely think vinyl would look better in a Z. Then again, how often do you look up in the car?

Glad you didn't spend money on that. I've been through the same thing with other people selling used wheels. Many people don't know how to measure them and advertise incorrect sizes. The width is measured on the inside of the wheel where the tire bead seals to the rim. In general, the wheel lip thickness is "about" a half inch thick per side, so even if the only measurement you have access to is the outside dimension, you can usually infer about an inch narrower than that because of the lip thickness. And as for the height... I use the middle of the lip where the tire bead makes contact. I'm not positive if that's the official measurement location or it it's really supposed to be the diameter of the hole in the center as you said, but those two locations result in measurements that are close enough that you can't make a mistake. The solutions are quantized.

Those are 14x7.

I've done two headliners in my past, both on the same kind of car (but not a Z). I did one in vinyl, and the other in traditional foam backed headliner fabric. In the end, I think the vinyl looked much better, but the foam backed headliner material is way easier to work with. Much stretchier and more forgiving. In fact, all of my reluctance to work with vinyl stems from that job.

Crap. Forgot about this one. This thread was recently referenced in a tension rod question and I wanted to change something I said above... I thought the proper way to install the bushings was with the thick side facing the frame and the thin sides towards the washers, and after further review, I do not believe that is correct. I believe the correct orientation is with the thin side towards the frame and the thick side towards the washer(s). I had even taken my bushings back out and reversed them but didn't take any new pics. At this point, I think this thread promotes incorrect info and leads to more confusion than assistance... @MikeIs there a way to delete the whole thing?