Captain Obvious

Those jumpers look correct for the switching over to the internally regulated alternator. The blue wire that goes to the charge lamp should be jumpered to the white/black wire that goes to the "L" terminal on the alternator. And the white/red wire that is tied into the alternator output voltage should be jumpered to the yellow wire that goes to the "S" terminal of the new alternator. If you want details of exactly what you are doing by making those connections, let me know and I can go through the theory. And Zed, You're right. I sped across the wiring diagram too quickly and got two wires crossed. The most disappointing part about that whole brake warning discussion is that we've hashed it all out already when we were talking about alternator excitation currents through the field coil: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/?page=1 My older friends tell me that memory fading will only increase with age....

Sorry, I'm not on my full keyboard, so I'm trying to type as few words as I can. You're right and I've removed the incorrect info to prevent confusion for people reading this in the future. And you're right again... We're off target at this point. Alternator it is.

Incorrect details removed.

Don't you just call it "cheese"?

That's exactly why I suggested putting the bumper back on!! Haha!!

Haha! I can't help you find the energy, but I can tell you that I understand completely. I've got my dash out right now to finally install my fancy new PWM dimmer and as much fun as that is, here I sit at the computer instead!

Note that the below has been edited to fix incorrect information: Depending on the year, they changed the way that "brake warning lamp check relay" is implemented, but all the brake warning relay does is 1) test the functionality of the brake warning bulb in the speedo before the engine is started, and 2) and warn you that you have lost power brake vacuum in the event that the engine has stalled. Your brake lamp will still light up just fine when you pull the emergency brake, and it will also still light up if the hydraulic brake indicator switch detects a fault in the braking system. All they were trying to do with that relay is provide you with a short term temporary "lamp test" mode that would allow you to verify that the warning indicators actually worked if necessary and warn you if you lost power brakes. I disconnected mine a while ago, and since I always pull the E-brake when I park, my bulb gets tested for functionality every time I pull the handle. As for your alternator connections, you're OK with that now, right?

Duh. The Obvious suggestion would be to put the rear bumper back on. (Just thinking about what changed...) The symptoms sure support a fuel starvation issue. Works great under lighter load, but the system can't keep up under higher fuel demand conditions. Other than a kinked hose, maybe you stirred up enough crap to clog your new filter already? Is it a clear style that you can have a peek at?

Oh, OK. Didn't recognize it as the turn signal because mine is very different inside. Not surprised it changed over the years. Here's what mine (from my 77) looked like inside: A blower motor change is on my list of things to do to. My current one still works fine though, so it's lower priority.

So you and I got just single nuts, while Jim got: And yes, that's a real product. And in fact, I've even seen it on the shelf with my own two eyes at one of my local food stores.

There have been several discussions about your exact lock problem in the past. I can't spend a lot of time searching right now, but if you do some digging and searching here about locks, you'll see threads that talk about that issue and some ways to fix it.

Good point. Discussing shades of colors is always a tricky thing. Could simply be the camera. I didn't get any photos of what I have yet, but I will when I get a chance. Another question. The switch with the burned contacts... That's for the passing light actuator on the end of the turn signal stalk, right? I don't have one of those.

Haha! Show off. Go ahead... You deserve to.

Haha! OCD and insomnia? A bad combination! I never bought a Z off the showroom floor so I can't possibly know for sure. And you're right... Not a big deal.

The normal saying is "pics or it didn't happen", but in this case, I trust you completely. And thank you. Nice pump. Does the check valve work?

Looks great. I did the same thing with my headlight switch and the lettering came up much nicer than it was when I started. It was hard to believe how white they got after all these years. What I thought was faded yellow paint was, in fact, murky brown muck covering bright white paint. In fact, no competition intended, but I think mine came out better than yours did. Mine may have been in better shape to start with? I know I used an old toothbrush just like you did, but I don't remember what I used as a fluid. It may have just been water, or it may have been the lightly ammoniated window cleaner, or it may have been armor-all. I'll snap a pic when I get a chance, and I believe I've got another spare stalk still dirty in a box somewhere. I'll try to recreate my success and if I can, I'll let you know what worked for me.

Before I clicked my connectors back into that holder, I filed the retaining lip tab things down a little. Not enough that the connectors pop out by accident, but enough that there's not as much drama in the future if I ever need to get them back out again. Been so long that the details are fuzzy, but I may even have carved off some (but not all) of the retaining tabs. And unfortunately that was before I started taking pictures of everything so I don't have any shots either. I do know that there was no way I was going to go through that again!

Bonus points and hazard pay if you can get a shot of you riding one of those awesome looking remote controls.

I haven't seen nylon insert style locknuts on the (stock) Z either. All the suspension stuff I've ever messed with were the distorted-thread style. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen the nylon insert style used on the suspension of any vehicle ever. It's always one form or another of the all metal distorted thread style. I'm no Z genealogy or history expert, but if you've got nylon insert locknuts on your suspension, I'm skeptical that it came from the factory that way.

What Zed said. For those of you who have not had the pleasure... Getting the connector shells out of the holder block is a royal PITA. With enough time, contortions, and small thin bladed instruments, I succeeded at getting mine apart, but it was a frustrating ordeal. Something so seemingly simple and ordinary, well.... isn't. So if you're planning to pull the main engine compartment harness out of the car, be ready to deal with that.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I was wondering if the squeaking you had was from not having the bolts tightened down proper. Glad to hear (get it?) you got it figured out.

Haha! I love that Pinto pic.

Jeremy, Lube on the ID of those bushings is OK. In fact, I would recommend it. You don't need it in there for the lubrication properties (because there shouldn't be any relative motion), but it will help with corrosion resistance and to help keep water out of that area. And a little lube on the end faces where the big washers contact the rubber wouldn't be a big deal either as those surfaces do slide. I would use silicone lube though, not anti-seize. If you get the rubber bushing "wings" in the proper locations and torque those big bolts down tight to spec, you shouldn't have to worry about the bushings spinning in the bracket. Are you sure the squeaking is coming from the rear inner bushings?

Maybe it's just camera angle. I just took a look for other similar pics and it could just be from the way the camera isn't dead-on towards the end of the shaft. If it rotates straight and you can't wiggle the top around with a pair of needle nose, then maybe it's an optical illusion.

I just took a fresh look some of the FSM's and I didn't see that plate adjustment procedure documented anywhere. I didn't know what to do with them either, and it just seemed to make sense. It's nice when you guess right! Chris, Yeah, that distributor drive shaft looks funky to me... Isn't there some kind of bearing boss feature on the top of that shaft that is supposed to locate in a hole in the front cover? It's been to long since I had mine out, so I don't remember the details, but I can't believe they let the top of that thing flail around. There's got to be some kind of bearing surface. Maybe the oil pump drive shaft is too far down? Is that even possible?