Captain Obvious

What he said. When the switch is OFF, G connects to G/Y. When the switch is ON, the other three* signal wires all get connected together (G/B, G/R, and G/L all connected together). * The other two wires (G/W and R/L) are for the illumination lamp inside the switch and have no impact on any function other than making the switch glow when you turn on the lights.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing about the location of the washer. Doesn't seem quite right regardless of which side of the clip you put it, but not having ever messed with one, I defer to your notes. Good luck with the reassembly and remember that there has to be an easy way because they sure didn't spend a whole lot of time on it at the factory. There is a trick or a tool. You just have to figure out what that is. Wait a minute... Are you calling us all irrational?

Not having the assy in my hands to take measurements, I'm clearly guessing, but... How about a piece of thin walled tubing where the OD is a slip fit down into the body of the valve where the spring and snap ring goes, and ID is as small as you dare to compress the snap ring. Compress the snap ring and place it into the ID of the tubing. Put the spring into place. Push the tube down into the hole compressing the spring. And then use a rod to push the snap ring out of the end of the tubing into the groove. You could even make sure you drop the ring into place a little beyond the groove, and the spring will push it back out until it snaps into place? The concept is kinda like a piston ring compressor keeps the ring compressed until you get it into the bore? A piece of thin walled tube to keep the snap ring compressed until you get it down into the bore. One last thing... You said the pic is the order the parts came out. Are you sure about the location of the washer? Not saying it never happens, but it's unusual to have a spring riding against a snap ring like that. I would have expected the washer to be between the spring and the clip. Again, not having ever seen one before, I'm just guessing here.

So THAT'S what happened to my car!!!

Done. You did great!!

I would be happy to be proven wrong, but I highly doubt the cork would be robust enough without a top covering of something else.

Looks great so far. I hope the leather work goes well. I had one (non-Z) steering wheel reupholstered in my past. I didn't do it myself and I found it hard to find people who still do that kind of work.

SWMBO is in Orlando this week, but no... I wasn't invited this time. We could have had a convoy from Orlando to Boca!

Excellent! Bet you can't wait till it gets to you and you get that first drive!!

It's not as simple as saying "Fits 280's". The 77-78 doors are significantly different than anything prior, and I believe that affects the door cards as well. If there are no holes or other features punched, it might not matter, but there might be other issues.

Wait... You raced a Le-boat too? You spent your youth going recklessly fast on either two wheels or Le-water?

Those KYBs are your typical low pressure twin tube design. Don't get too hung up on the amount of gas pressure or the rebound speed. As Zed Head alluded to earlier the gas inside those shocks isn't intended to have anything directly to do with the damping force at all. It's just in there to reduce the tendency of the hydraulic oil to foam under repeated quickly occurring cycles. In other words... Even if the gas all leaked out and there was no rebound at all, the dampers would still dampen the same for a couple cycles. They just wouldn't do it for as many cycles in a row because the oil might foam.

Well the answer to the "why would you" is... "Because I have 'A', but what I really need is 'B' and even though I understand that it might not be a financially intelligent solution, and one that some people might consider foolhardy, (if it works) it could get me out of my current bind." I'm not suggesting it's a financially viable solution. I'm just curious. About the angled fluid holes... If the angle is the same (mirror imaged) on both halves of the clamshell, then the angle doesn't matter. If you take the same amount of material off both sides, both holes will move the same amount and still line up with eachother in the end. New O-ring counterbore in the new location, and you should be good. And since the O-rings and their counterbores are larger than the fluid holes, they also compensate for some amount of misalignment of the fluid holes. I suspect they utilized that fact in the original design to account for manufacturing tolerances.

Lol! Seriously though, the work looks great. One question I meant to ask a long time ago and never did though... Could you have separated the two halves of the calipers for the vented rotors and milled off some material from the mating faces to bring the two halves closer together? Like close enough to use them on a solid non-vented rotor instead of the vented variety? I know it's water over the dam at this point, but I just kept forgetting to ask.

Agreed. They do have info on the .100 needles as well, but they didn't write the java to put it into table form like they did for the .090s http://www.teglerizer.com/suneedledb/ Somewhere around here I've got a spreadsheet with all of them...

That table is needles designed for the .090 nozzle. Anything in that list will be way too rich to run in the .100 nozzle. Maybe one could switch over to a .090 nozzle/needle pair and find something that might work?

Seriously... You can say that with a straight face? If I told my wife I'm headed out to the garage to wax my drive shaft, I'm not sure she'd be home when I came back in.

KHAN!!!!!!!

Agreed! I think it looks great and I wish mine was that original. My PO applied paint is just one of a multitude of things that have been messed with on mine! If I were closer, I'd be happy to come over and swap interiors with you. I've got the black and have been digging the white for quite some time.

Good. Was hoping I wasn't crushing hopes and dreams... That's always a risk. So if I'm not mistaken (which is certainly not a given!!), I don't think a paint gauge will be necessary. It appears there is overspray: On the rubber bumpers on the top edge of the fenders that align the sides of the hood On the windshield washer bottle On the top of the pass door jamb latch Along the bottom of the pass door sill plate On the rubber door seals at the upper front corners of the doors (in front of the side view mirrors)

Guilty as charged. I'm not aware of an equivalent match for the N-27's and I believe that profile was developed custom for Hitachi for the Z's. Many people run the SM needles, and Stanley well described the issue that some people find with them. Boomguy, Just sent you PM as well.

Shield looks great! Have you conclusively confirmed that it has eliminated the problem you were chasing? Steve's Shield Shop. Has a nice ring to it... SSS Sounds like steam escaping like you're doing the French Mistake.

Beautiful, and looks like an unmolested example. I wish mine had been that un-messed with when I got it. However, with no bubble bursting intended... That's not original paint. It's been sprayed.

Where's my sunglasses??? Found 'em. Ahhh. That's better.

Beautiful. I love that color combo. How's the underside look?