hr369

I must say i've never seen factory air that had the dryer next to the compressor like that. it looks like a rotary compressor. You couldn't mount one of those boat anchor piston units under the intake manifold. All of the compressors that i've seen on early 240's in the states have the older style piston design like in this photo.

i'de buy both if there isn't much rust. do you transport to the midwest or east coast? haul one out there and double or triple your money. those guys are always looking to find west coast z's.

there must be some place on the net that automates craigslist searches and emails you when "70 240z" comes up.

wish i was closer to the one. passing it along to others Large Lot of Vintage Datsun 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX Parts No Reserve | eBay

how do you know the compressor is bad? these old hitachi's are pretty tough. however, the quickest way to kill one is to starve it of oil. when you put in r134 did you have a shop do it or did you use one of those "kits" ? the newer more efficient variable displacement compressors have serpentine belts and to convert your pulley(s) to match would be difficult. the best way to get more efficiency is to add a universal parallel type condenser which requires making new hoses which is not a bad idea if you're still running the original hoses from 1978.

install muffler(s)

easy spot repair for some of the dash repair guru's here. maybe a heat gun on them and a quick quench with a cold towel would shrink them back. but, yea you're probably right. the big money oem buyers want perfect.

any price under a grand is a steal. i can't imagine the prices for these have gone down. current bid only 735 bucks and only 3 hrs to go. perhaps they've become less valuable since we have been repairing them ourselves with foam and bondo. New Dashboard for Datsun 240Z 240 Z Dash | eBay

wow i paid 4.11 a gallon and im in hawaii. you're getting ripped off

weld in a plate? you should bevel it back and use as many passes as it needs to fill in the hole. no patch plate or sealer required. if its done like this, you wont even know its been repaired. its very important to use cas iron welding rods and to preheat the iron before welding. welding rods can be bought here 1/2 lb 77 Electrode 3/32"

you've got good luck uncovering what appear to be rust free rust belt cars. that is a nice original looking 71. i personally love my automatic. it shifts crisp and tight. it's an age thing yea i know. i didn't appreciate automatics until about age 35 and by that time i had spent many hours in stop n go traffic shifting gears endlessly. i wouldn't let the auto trans deter you. for a few hundred bucks you could put a 5 speed in and put the auto in the corner of the garage, awaiting patiently, until the day you too perhaps will tire of shifting. for reliablitly sake i'de go for the stock L24 over the hybrid v8. if there's no rust on the 71 thats an easy decision.

love those slot mags and burnt orange paint. interesting setup on the ball valve. im wondering if you could rig up a 240z manual choke lever to it. the aux valves that i've had never really worked. they either stuck open or stuck closed. yours would be probably the first fuel injected z with a manual choke.

injector connectors should be replaced or the very least cleaned with a good electrical contact cleaner. did you test your injector with a full 12v from the car battery

exhaust pipes are in an odd location. they're right under the fuel tank. does this car have a fuel cell or the original gas tank? i'de look closely at the motor and trans mounts. do they look flimsy-homemade-hacked-crappy welds? first thing i would do is get rid of that small steering wheel. that dude must be a bodybuilder to steer that thing. do you have self control? when i was your age this car probably have been wrapped around a tree with me dead inside. if you're like me stick to the toyota land cruisers and vw busses. edit: looking more closely at the rear deck carpet, its way too high to be stock he must have a pretty big fuel cell under the back. i'de be concerned if it has room for a spare tire. if not, you had better pick up some roadside assistance insurance.

i used just standard acid core solder for plumbing. fast forward to 6:25 on this video. it shows how to solder holes up in sheetmetal. this is old school for sure. dent puller and solder . yes you could use a washer as backing on the larger hole. Of course this is not the preferred way to repair. welding is the best but you said you did not want welding sparks to damage your paint. another option is if you could take the door off the car and mig weld it up. to minimize the heat damage to the paint you could use a moldable heat dam around the weld area

anything behind the bondo to keep it from absorbing moisture inside the door is a good thing. i've used masking tape before as a backing until the bondo set up. then pulled it off and painted the bondo from the back side. i'de indent the holes a little before bondo'ing. soldering them would be my preference though.

ZXR616, I think the fuel regulator, header and possibly megasquirt are the reason you don't get heat soak. Have you tweaked your MAT values or cranking pulsewidth in megasquirt ? edit: from the mazda megasquirt forums "i have upped my cranking pulses 30% to accomodate the e85"

sell it to me so you can put some paint on that 620. Im curious as to how it made it from glendale az to atlanta. anybody know dean tilton? maybe he'd be interested in where it is now. edit: Dean Tilton passed away. i do believe this car was his pride and joy. Dean Tilton Obituary: View Dean Tilton's Obituary by The Arizona Republic

megasquirt owners also deal with heat soak. someone suggested that the heat affects the copper windings inside the injector and reduces its pulse. for megasquirt owners there are no options? they do have MAT air density correction but it doesn't seem to help the problem much. would increasing pulse width during hot startups help solve the problem? will len's hellfire be able to compensate using software? M54 Megasquirt 3: Fuel Injector Heat soak

this is what jeep did to prevent heat soak. notice the insulation is only in the center of the manifold. the zx injector fan also points to the center injectors. Injector heat shield - Jeep Wrangler Forum

yesterday i decided to do a little experiment. i detached my fuel rail leaving the injectors still attached to the rail. i then turned on the fuel pump and used a 9v battery to turn on and the injectors one by one. i thought i would have had at least one leaking injector. not even one little dribble could be seen. i also checked the cold start valve for a leak. i then pulled the injectors off the rail and soaked them in an ultrasonic bath of solvent. ran solvent both directions thru the injectors. its been 10+ years since i replaced these injectors so they were due for a good cleaning anyways. car ran more smoothly at idle but the real test will be when i go for a long drive and try to restart. btw i have the plastic injector insulators and a new check valve. the 280z exhaust manifold looks quite a bit more meaty than the zx manifold. perhaps a zx manifold would help the heat soak problem. does anyone in a 280z run a zx exhaust manifold?

can you hear the sound by revving the motor to the rpm of 60 mph?

crack when you're taking it out you mean?

If the piston bore is ok couldnt a machine Shop weld the block hole up? Ive arc welded metal thicker in the Army when i repaired tank armor.

what were the rpm's when it blew?