Patcon

Duplicating the cardboard at the rear strut towers Posted into the resource section

We are getting closer to starting up the frankenstein motor. Does anyone have any advice? Do we have to drive it? Can we just garage start it? How long do we need to run it on initial start up? Any other thoughts?

Here are some templates for the cardboard at the rear strut towers

So I drew out some templates today for the cardboard pieces that go on the rear strut towers under the diamond pattern vinyl. I posted them in pdf and dwg. One of them is larger than 8 1/2 x 11 240z cardboard strut tower.dwg strut tower carboard1.pdf strut tower cardboard2.pdf

Any updates?

Too bad you can't find a donor console. It is much easier to plastic weld something if you have the same plastic as a donor. I have done alot of plastic welding. An old glove box door might work as a donor. You can use a soldering iron as a plastic welder. Then knock down the repair with a grinder. Texture with some SEM spray

Do you have the other pieces to fill the hole?

My only concern about moving the contact pattern is noise. I have read that moving to a new contact pattern in a worn in R&P can cause excessive noise and/or whine. Otherwise I agree with your plan overall

I'll look around

That's a good idea. I will try Michaels. I want something a little tougher than regular cardboard in case I need to peel the leather and reposition

A gallon of epoxy is normally enough to seal a car. With activator it's normally 5 quarts mixed. Looks good Grannyknot! No boom is always good!!

On another note, does anyone have any recommendations for replacing this hard board that goes on the rear strut towers? This is why I don't through anything away. I found it inside the old vinyl I only have one and need to make the pieces for the top of the shock tower too. It looks to be about 2mm thick

Thanks for those! It looks like the auto console would need some pretty serious patching to make work. I will look at sourcing a replacement console

If someone has some pictures of the manual console from underneath, that would be great.

I was not sure if all the extra material that holds the auto shifter was there on the manual console? Or whether the manual had that but didn't have the notches where the auto shifter slid through?

So before I started gluing, I made two sharpie marks for where the seams should meet the luggage panel Then I sprayed glue on the top edge about halfway down and put it in Today I worked on the front half. I sprayed both surfaces. I didn't let it tack too long so it was a little easier to position

We worked on his header some today. We spotted the O2 bungs and Cody cut the holes in. I used a spare sensor to check the locations and ended up moving one of them to get a little more clearance. We bought the header uncoated so after he welds it, we will get it coated

What are the differences in the automatic center console and a manual center console? How does the edge of the manual center console compare around the shifter?

Yeah, those are close. I've never measured the stock ones. Half the battle is knowing what search terms to use...

What window kit did you use?

I have most of those caps but haven't seen a source for replacements. Would like to find a source if possible, just in case...

Did you figure out which end of the headlight harness gets the tape marker? Do you have the caps that go over the headlight screw inserts?

Also remember this trim is exceedingly thin! So the closer you can dolly it the better. It's not some thick trim off a 70s Detroit beast. There are limits to how much you can sand with the course stuff! You'll know you're getting really thin if it turns blue easily when buffing

Bear in mind. The paper dulls reall really fast because the trim is so hard! Especially the finer grits

Yes, it probably wont happen this weekend though