Patcon

I believe there are a number of guys here who have used this kit. They might be able to give you some tips if you need specific help. You might want to add Caswell in the thread title to catch someone's eye... Charles

I second that. It may be a truly low number car and I am not sure beating it up with cones would be my first choice...condition translates not only into money but time, if you are going to do the work yourself. I am 5 years into one of my restorations currently... Charles

Madkaw, why brass? C

I have tried to do some plastic buffing with buffers that run at those speeds and have found it very easy to melt the plastic. I would like to get a 2 speed buffing wheel like Eastwood sells but the initial investment is getting in the way. I guess the main point is anything above 2000 rpms will melt the plastic quickly use caution... Charles

The VIN is a great place to start. If it is a 1969 car it is likely a low number car and would deserve special consideration if its not a rust bucket. A stroker project is not a cheap endeavor, even in the most econo minded setups that I have seen. If you could afford Rebello that would be a sure fire way to end up with good useable power and reliability. Building your own motor takes some attention to detail and what works on a 2jz does not necessarily translate to a 40 year old Nissan motor. 2jz is a dual cam cross breathing engine; a totally different animal than a Nissan L6 type engine. That is why many of the people on Hybrid Z do the swaps they do is because many times it is easier, cheaper or both to just swap or swap and turbo for significant gains. The VIN is the right place to start and some pictures would be good, especially the rust prone areas: battery tray, rocker panels, rear wheel arches, floor boards, dog legs... Charles

I learned my lesson with angle grinder last year. I was using a 4" grinder with a thin metal cutting blade. At the time I was nursing some blue finger nails and the grinder slipped. When I went to catch it, I triggered it by accident. The spinning blade bumped my leg ( I was squatting down) and layed my quad right open. Went to the urgent care waited 2 hours holding my leg closed, got fed up went to CVS, then home and did the medical work myself. Painful but effective. I guess its fortunate my tetnus vaccine stays current. I now have a nice permanent black scare on my leg where the blade tattooed me. Happened amazingly fast. I hope you are ok... Charles

I love that color and may try it on a Z I have sitting around here. I painted my first Z from bare metal up and was shooting for a color like that but ended up much darker. I prefer your color... Charles

I would love to see someone on this forum take the project on. I just can't do it. Zedyone are you listening...:laugh: Charles

Is this car sold or not? I found a craigslist add posted today advertising this car, did the sale fall thru? Charles Serial number 201 1970 datsun 240z, 1969, $ 3,900.00

If I had more money I would buy the qtr for the next project. Those are some great leads... C

Looks great. I love the way new hardware looks Charles

I thought the red interior was rare also. I would think it might be better to acquire black panels and send the red ones to ebay and be money ahead. Just a thought... Charles

Very cool. Nice, simple and repeatable I like that. Charles

Steve, So you are molding covers that go over the existing steel tabs. How tight are they? Do the tabs have to be really straight to get them back on. Is an adhesive required? Charles

Do you set ii into the jet well or do you have to thread it all the way down? It appears that you cover the hole on the top of tool and then check the fuel level trapped by the vacuum. Is that correct? Charles

Be very careful about thread engagement on the lug nuts. I would want as much engagement as I could get. The studs are cheap and losing a wheel is a bad deal and costly for you and the car... Charles

"The bends"? From diving? Charles

Yes please... I need to come by anyway and check the progress. Is the suspension going in yet? Charles

Steve, That is a cool part. I worked up another repair for that but prefer your idea to mine. Charles

So was it coating on the inside of the tank causing problems then? C

So you pour gas into the rubber line that goes to the float bowls and it runs. After getting it to run 3 times you had fuel in the same line from the fuel pump? Correct? C

I did not know that about straight Argon. That is interesting... C

I had a century 100 amp welder at one time and it welded like a "drunk monkey". I bought myself a Hobart 230 last year for Christmas. Much easier to weld with a good welder especially if it can be run at 100% duty cycle. I have lots of ideas for your welds but it is much easier to figure out by feel. Sometimes I get little beads like that when my heat isn't high enough, metal is too dirty or not enough shielding gas. I usually run at the highest setting I can with out burning holes. You can also avoid holes by triggering in short burst and not holding the torch square to the surface. If the metal gets red hot the shield gas can blow holes in it. I have found on my Z I use the #1 and #2 settings on my welder out of 12 settings. The metal is very thin and it is easy to blow holes in it especially if it is on a panel that got stretched a lot when it was stamped. My speed setting is about 22-28 on those first 2 settings which I think is inches per minute (?). I like it to sound like frying bacon real consistent sizzle and very little popping. Generally when I am getting popping it is because the metal is dirty or rusty. A little die grinder with a 2" 36 grit rowlock pad works good for this and quick. Praticing on a test panel to find some initial settings is a good idea preferably a Z panel because the alloy and the gauge will be similar. My 2 cents... Charles

I didn't know the breadth of their product line that is good to know. C

I was under the impression POR-15 didn't like UV exposure....? Charles